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When I first bought it the LR tire was flat. I pumped some Slime into it and it's been fine ever since. Until today when it went from fine (when I was shining up the tires with Wet Look Tire juice) to: sounds like something is rubbing on the tire about two hours later.
Turned out that nothing was rubbing - the LR tire was flat. The baby-spare wasn't much better but the baby-tire pump from HF that I had stashed under the seat a few months ago fixed it. Not fast - but eventually.
Then the Puerto Rican tire shop pulled it, *****ed about the Slime, and then patched it for me. And re-installed it on the Jeep - really nice guys there.
Oh no wait: before that I re-wiped all the faded exterior plastic over with Back To Black - or something like that. It doesn't last very long so the next time I'm going to use baby oil. That's what I used on old motorcycles and it always kept the plastic looking nice for months.
Pulled my passenger side door apart. Ordered some new speakers and tried to refurbish the window motor. Didnt seem to help so ill have to just get a new motor
yea, i was really hoping it was electrical, but the pcm showis it going into all 4 gears but will only go into second. it won shift manyaly even thow the pcm will show the shift when moving the gear selector. ive put at least 12 quarts of fresh fluidthru the system and the flyid still looks pretty bad.
but ive got a line on a couple rebuilt units under 800$ so hopefully ive got a new tranny going in by next weekend
im going to upgrade the tranny cooler as well and ad a fan tied into the pcm controls, i figure if the engines hot enough to trigger the fan, so it the trans.
Well today, I decided to put the TJ rear soft brake line on my xj. 3" Lift by the way, someone always asks. lol.
RAYBESTOS # BH38845 is about 4" longer than stock.
While under there, I noticed the rubber hose on the fuel filter was cracked all to crap so I went to Oreally's and got a new fuel filter and some new hose with new clamps. Replaced the filter and went about my business.
Removed the factory soft rear brake line and started to install the new line. FYI here if you haven't done this. The new line is NOT a direct bolt on. The distribution block has a much larger mounting hole through it than stock. Not an issue, I took a short piece of the junk fuel line, the depth of the distribution block, slit it down the side removing about 3/16 inch out of it, stuffed it in the distribution block, bolted that sucker back on. Don't think you need vibration dampener for a brake distribution block but what the heck. It was handy.
Put it all back together. Looks like it will be plenty of line when flexing the rear axle. still have to bleed the brakes but that will come later after the front brake lines are changed out.
Got my new adjustable track bar Friday so it will be back to the front end soon.
yea, i was really hoping it was electrical, but the pcm showis it going into all 4 gears but will only go into second. it won shift manyaly even thow the pcm will show the shift when moving the gear selector. ive put at least 12 quarts of fresh fluidthru the system and the flyid still looks pretty bad.
but ive got a line on a couple rebuilt units under 800$ so hopefully ive got a new tranny going in by next weekend
im going to upgrade the tranny cooler as well and ad a fan tied into the pcm controls, i figure if the engines hot enough to trigger the fan, so it the trans.
the're made to run hot as engine. abuse or lack of maint got it prob.
Changed the rear shocks...and was really surprised how much better he rides now. Changed the fuel filter while I was at it...and replaced the crunchy taco rear window divider seal.
Finished my headliner. Still need to finish cutting holes for the visors and rear light, and wrap my overhead console. Word of advice..... Don't use elmers brand spray adhesive. It doesn't like to stick to the fiberglass board and didn't stick properly
Is the issue that you can control the windows from the driver door switches only? If so, there's a simple work around - a jumper to bypass the lockout. It's pretty well documented with pics on this site and others.
I found that in a sticky; but I'd rather fix the switch.
I'm an ex Navy Comm Tech, so I could easily do the solder repair (well at least I could back when I could see and my hands were steady).
It's funny, but when I was a kid I couldn't wait to modify every car/truck I had. My Dad always asked me why I thought I could do better than all the automotive engineers that worked on the car.
Now, I'm really into originality, so I try to fix rather than change.
I've become like my Dad?
Took the doors off for this 80 * weather tomorrow. Also added some mirrors for when the doors are off. They should also work well with the tube doors.
Seen a xj so i got a pic
Today a helper appeared so I worked on the "horns don't work" issue.
Found:
The horn set is not original
The OEM horn-plugs are just dangling
Someone used a pinch-tap wired in from one of the horn-plug wires to both horns.
There was no 12V to the tapped-in wire or to the factory horn-plugs
Direct power to the horns only makes one of them sound.
The horn relay socket under the hood is empty.
Moving the transmission relay over to the horn relay socket results in the relay coil being constantly powered.
Removed the steering wheel center and the air bag. The cheap circuit-board horn 'button' is apparently shorted / closed.
So now it seems that I need a set of horns and a new steering wheel center.
03-19-2017, 03:05 PM
