Should i get a dana 44 or a Ford 8.8
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Should i get a dana 44 or a Ford 8.8
I have a XJ and i am trying to make the choice between a 8.8 and a dana 44. The dana 44 is 50 dollars more then the 8.8 all together both have 3.55 gears. I would be keeping the gears for plenty of time so re-gearing isn't something i need to consider. But what axel would be better for my jeep that is going to be my dd/Trail vehicle.
And also i would like to know some of the pro's and con's of each one to help me make the choice if possible.
And also i would like to know some of the pro's and con's of each one to help me make the choice if possible.
#3
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Soddy Daisy TN
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Is the 8.8 a disc brake axle? If so that's a pro.
8.8 if from an exploder is 31 spline and plenty strong. The drawbacks are the c-clips and weak factory carrier. Weld the tubes to the housing since they like to spin. It's also about an inch narrower than stock but 1/2" per side isn't noticeable. You'll also need spring perches, shock mounts and a flange for the u-joint.
The D44 is 30 spline and has flanged axles, no c-clips. If you found one that isn't a small fortune buy it even if you don't use it because they go for 250+ for the XJ versions. It's also a direct bolt in.
Both have plenty of aftermarket support and strength is roughly the same. 8.8 shafts are slightly stronger but the c-clips make them closer to even again, unless you break a shaft then you'll want the D44.
8.8 if from an exploder is 31 spline and plenty strong. The drawbacks are the c-clips and weak factory carrier. Weld the tubes to the housing since they like to spin. It's also about an inch narrower than stock but 1/2" per side isn't noticeable. You'll also need spring perches, shock mounts and a flange for the u-joint.
The D44 is 30 spline and has flanged axles, no c-clips. If you found one that isn't a small fortune buy it even if you don't use it because they go for 250+ for the XJ versions. It's also a direct bolt in.
Both have plenty of aftermarket support and strength is roughly the same. 8.8 shafts are slightly stronger but the c-clips make them closer to even again, unless you break a shaft then you'll want the D44.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Is the 8.8 a disc brake axle? If so that's a pro.
8.8 if from an exploder is 31 spline and plenty strong. The drawbacks are the c-clips and weak factory carrier. Weld the tubes to the housing since they like to spin. It's also about an inch narrower than stock but 1/2" per side isn't noticeable. You'll also need spring perches, shock mounts and a flange for the u-joint.
The D44 is 30 spline and has flanged axles, no c-clips. If you found one that isn't a small fortune buy it even if you don't use it because they go for 250+ for the XJ versions. It's also a direct bolt in.
Both have plenty of aftermarket support and strength is roughly the same. 8.8 shafts are slightly stronger but the c-clips make them closer to even again, unless you break a shaft then you'll want the D44.
8.8 if from an exploder is 31 spline and plenty strong. The drawbacks are the c-clips and weak factory carrier. Weld the tubes to the housing since they like to spin. It's also about an inch narrower than stock but 1/2" per side isn't noticeable. You'll also need spring perches, shock mounts and a flange for the u-joint.
The D44 is 30 spline and has flanged axles, no c-clips. If you found one that isn't a small fortune buy it even if you don't use it because they go for 250+ for the XJ versions. It's also a direct bolt in.
Both have plenty of aftermarket support and strength is roughly the same. 8.8 shafts are slightly stronger but the c-clips make them closer to even again, unless you break a shaft then you'll want the D44.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#7
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Soddy Daisy TN
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Trending Topics
#8
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: City of Trees, CA
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
9 Posts
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I went straight to the 8.8 when I went to 33's. I still dragged diff everywhere even when I went to 35's. It's a big diff. but 32's don't even warrant an axle swap. I'd go straight to 33's. you'll end up there anyway...
#10
CF Veteran
#12
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Monett, MO.
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It sounds like all you would ever need might be a Chy 8.25 with 29 spline axles and its a direct bolt-in not true with the others. I run it in mine with 33's on a trail rig not a DD locked and 4.56's no problems.
#14
CF Veteran