need some advice on 01 cherokee oil pressure
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
need some advice on 01 cherokee oil pressure
i know the question has been posted countless times because ive read countless posts but this is really more of a request for advice on what to do if you were in the situation. here goes:
recently bought an 01 cherokee. 158k. was unaware of the 331 head issue at the time.
cue unexplained loss of coolant and low oil pressure when hot. (low enough that the gauge actually stops reading anything when stopped.) when rpms are up oil pressure is anywhere from 28-35 hot depending on rpms/load etc. i know oil pressure normally drops as it warms up and the minimum for the 4.0 is 13psi hot idle. im between 4-6 when hot verified with mechanical gauge.
back to unexplained coolant loss:
ive checked for leaks. cant find any. pressure tested twice for an extended period and pressure did drop to the point where any external leak should have been evident. cap did not hold pressure well, but if cap was bad coolant would just be forced back into reservoir providing there is no evidence of an external leak at cap which there is not.
there is some peanut butter on the cap, and the interior surface of the valve cover seems to have a light coating as well, more than just typical condensation, however none on the dipstick.
engine does idle rough at times, especially when hot, almost always after driving for awhile then stopping somewhere for a short time then driving again similar to the heat soak issue.
now as far as the coolant leak my assumption is that the head is indeed cracked, but the majority of the coolant might be making its way into cylinder 3 or 4 or possibly both (which could explain the rough idle/occasional misfire codes that resolve themselves over time) and being burned off even though exhaust doesnt smell sweet. ive put over a gallon of coolant in it in the +- 2 months ive owned it and the oil level has not increased, its actually decreased a little bit so i dont think the majority of it is ending up there.
so i do know at least the head needs replaced and i am ok with that. however i am stuck between a rock and a hard place because i dont have much money to be dumping into it.
i dont have enough for a reman engine
if i bought a used one i have no guarantee it wont have the same problem this one does because of the changes that were made in head design and block casting/ignition system, getting an older or newer head would be way more money/work than i can pull off right now.
my other option is pulling the pan and pump and checking that out and possibly replacing it or cleaning the pickup screen/tube and pressure relief valve.
but if its the bearings im kinda back to the used engine which leaves me with no guarantee i wont be doing this whole thing again at some point.
if its the bearings, after its all said and done the cost or replacing cam bearing which requires a special tool to remove/install from what ive read+crank bearings, seals, gaskets, fluids, etc would be similar cost to buying a reman engine so thats not really a possibility.
my last option is to cut my losses and get rid of it, which i really would hate to do because its a solid vehicle aside from this. no leaks, minimal rust, good tires/brakes and almost all suspension components have alreay been replaced.
what would you do, and how would you go about it?
recently bought an 01 cherokee. 158k. was unaware of the 331 head issue at the time.
cue unexplained loss of coolant and low oil pressure when hot. (low enough that the gauge actually stops reading anything when stopped.) when rpms are up oil pressure is anywhere from 28-35 hot depending on rpms/load etc. i know oil pressure normally drops as it warms up and the minimum for the 4.0 is 13psi hot idle. im between 4-6 when hot verified with mechanical gauge.
back to unexplained coolant loss:
ive checked for leaks. cant find any. pressure tested twice for an extended period and pressure did drop to the point where any external leak should have been evident. cap did not hold pressure well, but if cap was bad coolant would just be forced back into reservoir providing there is no evidence of an external leak at cap which there is not.
there is some peanut butter on the cap, and the interior surface of the valve cover seems to have a light coating as well, more than just typical condensation, however none on the dipstick.
engine does idle rough at times, especially when hot, almost always after driving for awhile then stopping somewhere for a short time then driving again similar to the heat soak issue.
now as far as the coolant leak my assumption is that the head is indeed cracked, but the majority of the coolant might be making its way into cylinder 3 or 4 or possibly both (which could explain the rough idle/occasional misfire codes that resolve themselves over time) and being burned off even though exhaust doesnt smell sweet. ive put over a gallon of coolant in it in the +- 2 months ive owned it and the oil level has not increased, its actually decreased a little bit so i dont think the majority of it is ending up there.
so i do know at least the head needs replaced and i am ok with that. however i am stuck between a rock and a hard place because i dont have much money to be dumping into it.
i dont have enough for a reman engine
if i bought a used one i have no guarantee it wont have the same problem this one does because of the changes that were made in head design and block casting/ignition system, getting an older or newer head would be way more money/work than i can pull off right now.
my other option is pulling the pan and pump and checking that out and possibly replacing it or cleaning the pickup screen/tube and pressure relief valve.
but if its the bearings im kinda back to the used engine which leaves me with no guarantee i wont be doing this whole thing again at some point.
if its the bearings, after its all said and done the cost or replacing cam bearing which requires a special tool to remove/install from what ive read+crank bearings, seals, gaskets, fluids, etc would be similar cost to buying a reman engine so thats not really a possibility.
my last option is to cut my losses and get rid of it, which i really would hate to do because its a solid vehicle aside from this. no leaks, minimal rust, good tires/brakes and almost all suspension components have alreay been replaced.
what would you do, and how would you go about it?
#2
i know the question has been posted countless times because ive read countless posts but this is really more of a request for advice on what to do if you were in the situation. here goes:
recently bought an 01 cherokee. 158k. was unaware of the 331 head issue at the time.
cue unexplained loss of coolant and low oil pressure when hot. (low enough that the gauge actually stops reading anything when stopped.) when rpms are up oil pressure is anywhere from 28-35 hot depending on rpms/load etc. i know oil pressure normally drops as it warms up and the minimum for the 4.0 is 13psi hot idle. im between 4-6 when hot verified with mechanical gauge.
back to unexplained coolant loss:
ive checked for leaks. cant find any. pressure tested twice for an extended period and pressure did drop to the point where any external leak should have been evident. cap did not hold pressure well, but if cap was bad coolant would just be forced back into reservoir providing there is no evidence of an external leak at cap which there is not.
there is some peanut butter on the cap, and the interior surface of the valve cover seems to have a light coating as well, more than just typical condensation, however none on the dipstick.
engine does idle rough at times, especially when hot, almost always after driving for awhile then stopping somewhere for a short time then driving again similar to the heat soak issue.
now as far as the coolant leak my assumption is that the head is indeed cracked, but the majority of the coolant might be making its way into cylinder 3 or 4 or possibly both (which could explain the rough idle/occasional misfire codes that resolve themselves over time) and being burned off even though exhaust doesnt smell sweet. ive put over a gallon of coolant in it in the +- 2 months ive owned it and the oil level has not increased, its actually decreased a little bit so i dont think the majority of it is ending up there.
so i do know at least the head needs replaced and i am ok with that. however i am stuck between a rock and a hard place because i dont have much money to be dumping into it.
i dont have enough for a reman engine
if i bought a used one i have no guarantee it wont have the same problem this one does because of the changes that were made in head design and block casting/ignition system, getting an older or newer head would be way more money/work than i can pull off right now.
my other option is pulling the pan and pump and checking that out and possibly replacing it or cleaning the pickup screen/tube and pressure relief valve.
but if its the bearings im kinda back to the used engine which leaves me with no guarantee i wont be doing this whole thing again at some point.
if its the bearings, after its all said and done the cost or replacing cam bearing which requires a special tool to remove/install from what ive read+crank bearings, seals, gaskets, fluids, etc would be similar cost to buying a reman engine so thats not really a possibility.
my last option is to cut my losses and get rid of it, which i really would hate to do because its a solid vehicle aside from this. no leaks, minimal rust, good tires/brakes and almost all suspension components have alreay been replaced.
what would you do, and how would you go about it?
recently bought an 01 cherokee. 158k. was unaware of the 331 head issue at the time.
cue unexplained loss of coolant and low oil pressure when hot. (low enough that the gauge actually stops reading anything when stopped.) when rpms are up oil pressure is anywhere from 28-35 hot depending on rpms/load etc. i know oil pressure normally drops as it warms up and the minimum for the 4.0 is 13psi hot idle. im between 4-6 when hot verified with mechanical gauge.
back to unexplained coolant loss:
ive checked for leaks. cant find any. pressure tested twice for an extended period and pressure did drop to the point where any external leak should have been evident. cap did not hold pressure well, but if cap was bad coolant would just be forced back into reservoir providing there is no evidence of an external leak at cap which there is not.
there is some peanut butter on the cap, and the interior surface of the valve cover seems to have a light coating as well, more than just typical condensation, however none on the dipstick.
engine does idle rough at times, especially when hot, almost always after driving for awhile then stopping somewhere for a short time then driving again similar to the heat soak issue.
now as far as the coolant leak my assumption is that the head is indeed cracked, but the majority of the coolant might be making its way into cylinder 3 or 4 or possibly both (which could explain the rough idle/occasional misfire codes that resolve themselves over time) and being burned off even though exhaust doesnt smell sweet. ive put over a gallon of coolant in it in the +- 2 months ive owned it and the oil level has not increased, its actually decreased a little bit so i dont think the majority of it is ending up there.
so i do know at least the head needs replaced and i am ok with that. however i am stuck between a rock and a hard place because i dont have much money to be dumping into it.
i dont have enough for a reman engine
if i bought a used one i have no guarantee it wont have the same problem this one does because of the changes that were made in head design and block casting/ignition system, getting an older or newer head would be way more money/work than i can pull off right now.
my other option is pulling the pan and pump and checking that out and possibly replacing it or cleaning the pickup screen/tube and pressure relief valve.
but if its the bearings im kinda back to the used engine which leaves me with no guarantee i wont be doing this whole thing again at some point.
if its the bearings, after its all said and done the cost or replacing cam bearing which requires a special tool to remove/install from what ive read+crank bearings, seals, gaskets, fluids, etc would be similar cost to buying a reman engine so thats not really a possibility.
my last option is to cut my losses and get rid of it, which i really would hate to do because its a solid vehicle aside from this. no leaks, minimal rust, good tires/brakes and almost all suspension components have alreay been replaced.
what would you do, and how would you go about it?
Open the oil fill cap and shine a bright flashlight down it. You will probably see a visible crack in your head.
Last edited by Bocefus; 03-18-2017 at 10:53 AM.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: usa
Posts: 799
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder
im between 4-6 when hot verified with mechanical gauge.
there is some peanut butter on the cap, and the interior surface of the valve cover seems to have a light coating as well, more than just typical condensation...
If you plan on keeping the Jeep for years to come, i'd invest in a re-man'd short block and order a clearwater head if you can afford it.
Thats what i'm gonna do if my 00 head cracks down the road. So far so good though with my Chrysler replacement engine.
Getting a good reliable used engine IMO is a toss of the dice especially an 00/01 engine.
#4
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
if i were to put a pre 2000 in it would i need to swap out pcm and wiring harness since the ignition system would be different, or would the connectors still be included for distributor etc.
#5
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I agree with Bocefus, that engine is in all probability toast.
If you plan on keeping the Jeep for years to come, i'd invest in a re-man'd short block and order a clearwater head if you can afford it.
Thats what i'm gonna do if my 00 head cracks down the road. So far so good though with my Chrysler replacement engine.
Getting a good reliable used engine IMO is a toss of the dice especially an 00/01 engine.
If you plan on keeping the Jeep for years to come, i'd invest in a re-man'd short block and order a clearwater head if you can afford it.
Thats what i'm gonna do if my 00 head cracks down the road. So far so good though with my Chrysler replacement engine.
Getting a good reliable used engine IMO is a toss of the dice especially an 00/01 engine.
#6
See this thread for details:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/200...t-fits-124299/