Which Jeep to Purchase?
07-12-2015, 08:15 AM
#1
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Year: 2007
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
Which Jeep to Purchase?
Let me start this thread off by saying I am a complete novice. So I do not know how to repair anything. I haven't even ever purchased a car in my 36 years of living. I've driven plenty of course. Sad I know, but I am looking to remedy that now!
I used drive a 2 door 1996 Jeep Cherokee frequently a few year back and liked it a lot. So i decided to purchase something similar. 4 door preferably.
Which leads to the point of this thread I am looking at two Jeeps on craigslist. My budget tops out at 1800 dollars.
The first is a 1998 Cherokee sport. Its 1500 and has 160,000 miles on it. It has cut off twice in 18 months and the owner says it need a crankshaft sensor.
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5052689984.html
The other is a 1998 Cherokee Classic. Its 1200 and has 212,000 miles on it. She says it needs an air conditioner and heater coil.
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5118486323.html
Thanks in advance for your help!
I used drive a 2 door 1996 Jeep Cherokee frequently a few year back and liked it a lot. So i decided to purchase something similar. 4 door preferably.
Which leads to the point of this thread I am looking at two Jeeps on craigslist. My budget tops out at 1800 dollars.
The first is a 1998 Cherokee sport. Its 1500 and has 160,000 miles on it. It has cut off twice in 18 months and the owner says it need a crankshaft sensor.
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5052689984.html
The other is a 1998 Cherokee Classic. Its 1200 and has 212,000 miles on it. She says it needs an air conditioner and heater coil.
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5118486323.html
Thanks in advance for your help!
07-12-2015, 01:46 PM
#2
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd option for the white 98. The intermittent issue isn't a worry and the mileage being lower is kinda nice, but really not a big deal for XJ's. With basic maintenance 300k is no biggie. I noticed the posting has been up for a month so maybe there is some flex on price now.. But if/when you go look at it there's a few things to check:
- electric components: windows, locks, switches, the list goes on. Make sure to press every button and turn every ***. Try the window/lock buttons from every door too.
- 4wd: it is either equipped with an NP242 or an NP231. (NP= New Process, company that made em). There are a couple differences, but they are very comparable. The biggest is the difference between the two is the 242 has part time AND full time 4wd while the 231 only has part time. They both have 4lo. Part time will cause binding on pavement and is recommended for off road only. The 242 has a viscous coupler that allows it to be in 4wd without causing binding on pavement, this is the full time option. The 231 is slightly stronger because of no viscous coupler... Slightly..
- rear axle: again, there will be two options here. It will either have a C8.25 or a D35. (C= Chrysler, D= Dana) now this is a bigger deal than the 4wd because the D35 is notoriously weak and is prone to failure under stress. Bigger tires and aggressive throttle will greatly increase the possibility of failure. However, some have wheeled D35's without issue.. Look up jeep rear axle diagram (or similar) to see what differential looks like, easiest way to tell which one it is.
- coolant system: chances are it will need maintenance, if not now, soon. The radiator, hoses, t-stat and water pump are all tied in to coolant system.
- front end: very little to worry about, but check it over. How are the TRE's (tie rod ends)? How are the control arms and mounts? Get a buddy to turn the wheel back and forth a bit to see if it all looks tight.
- rust: likely spots are rocker panels, doors, sometimes corners of roof. Crawl underneath and see if you can poke a screwdriver thru any rust spots- check front seat foot wells, especially around drivers side.
- fluids: check every one you can to make sure it's full and not too old. Things like transfer case and differentials can't be checked so easily but are easy to change after purchase.
- test drive: starts, stops, corners, bumps, forwards, backwards, in 2wd and 4hi and 4lo. Jeeps aren't exactly luxury machines so expect a few noises you're not used to hearing but don't expect excess pops and clunks. That's a sign of worn out steering components like ball joints, tre's, sway bar bushings, etc..
- what else... Idk.. Jeeps are great. You're novice mechanic status will quickly change once you're a jeep owner
so will your tool supply. OH! Expect the CEL (check engine light) to be on. But don't panic. It's probably nothing. If you or a buddy doesn't have a scan tool, most parts stores and garages will check it. If someone wants money to check it, laugh derisively and slap their face with a glove indicating your alphaness over this individual.. But seriously, don't pay to have this done! Good luck and happy trails.
- electric components: windows, locks, switches, the list goes on. Make sure to press every button and turn every ***. Try the window/lock buttons from every door too.
- 4wd: it is either equipped with an NP242 or an NP231. (NP= New Process, company that made em). There are a couple differences, but they are very comparable. The biggest is the difference between the two is the 242 has part time AND full time 4wd while the 231 only has part time. They both have 4lo. Part time will cause binding on pavement and is recommended for off road only. The 242 has a viscous coupler that allows it to be in 4wd without causing binding on pavement, this is the full time option. The 231 is slightly stronger because of no viscous coupler... Slightly..
- rear axle: again, there will be two options here. It will either have a C8.25 or a D35. (C= Chrysler, D= Dana) now this is a bigger deal than the 4wd because the D35 is notoriously weak and is prone to failure under stress. Bigger tires and aggressive throttle will greatly increase the possibility of failure. However, some have wheeled D35's without issue.. Look up jeep rear axle diagram (or similar) to see what differential looks like, easiest way to tell which one it is.
- coolant system: chances are it will need maintenance, if not now, soon. The radiator, hoses, t-stat and water pump are all tied in to coolant system.
- front end: very little to worry about, but check it over. How are the TRE's (tie rod ends)? How are the control arms and mounts? Get a buddy to turn the wheel back and forth a bit to see if it all looks tight.
- rust: likely spots are rocker panels, doors, sometimes corners of roof. Crawl underneath and see if you can poke a screwdriver thru any rust spots- check front seat foot wells, especially around drivers side.
- fluids: check every one you can to make sure it's full and not too old. Things like transfer case and differentials can't be checked so easily but are easy to change after purchase.
- test drive: starts, stops, corners, bumps, forwards, backwards, in 2wd and 4hi and 4lo. Jeeps aren't exactly luxury machines so expect a few noises you're not used to hearing but don't expect excess pops and clunks. That's a sign of worn out steering components like ball joints, tre's, sway bar bushings, etc..
- what else... Idk.. Jeeps are great. You're novice mechanic status will quickly change once you're a jeep owner
so will your tool supply. OH! Expect the CEL (check engine light) to be on. But don't panic. It's probably nothing. If you or a buddy doesn't have a scan tool, most parts stores and garages will check it. If someone wants money to check it, laugh derisively and slap their face with a glove indicating your alphaness over this individual.. But seriously, don't pay to have this done! Good luck and happy trails.
07-18-2015, 10:16 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
If you're talking about buying a 17 year old vehicle (of any make, not just a Jeep), it's going to need maintenance and repairs. If you pay someone to do the work, it adds up. An old vehicle can often cost more than a newer one when you factor in the work it will need as it ages.
However, these things are not particularly difficult to work on, and there is a wealth of information on this board and other places on the internet to help you. IF you're willing to learn to do the work. We've had some complete novices tackle their own work and fall flat on their faces, while others have taken a shine to it and done quite well.
Just something to think about.
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07-19-2015, 03:50 AM
#8
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Year: 2007
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
I'd option for the white 98. The intermittent issue isn't a worry and the mileage being lower is kinda nice, but really not a big deal for XJ's. With basic maintenance 300k is no biggie. I noticed the posting has been up for a month so maybe there is some flex on price now.. But if/when you go look at it there's a few things to check:
- electric components: windows, locks, switches, the list goes on. Make sure to press every button and turn every ***. Try the window/lock buttons from every door too.
- 4wd: it is either equipped with an NP242 or an NP231. (NP= New Process, company that made em). There are a couple differences, but they are very comparable. The biggest is the difference between the two is the 242 has part time AND full time 4wd while the 231 only has part time. They both have 4lo. Part time will cause binding on pavement and is recommended for off road only. The 242 has a viscous coupler that allows it to be in 4wd without causing binding on pavement, this is the full time option. The 231 is slightly stronger because of no viscous coupler... Slightly..
- rear axle: again, there will be two options here. It will either have a C8.25 or a D35. (C= Chrysler, D= Dana) now this is a bigger deal than the 4wd because the D35 is notoriously weak and is prone to failure under stress. Bigger tires and aggressive throttle will greatly increase the possibility of failure. However, some have wheeled D35's without issue.. Look up jeep rear axle diagram (or similar) to see what differential looks like, easiest way to tell which one it is.
- coolant system: chances are it will need maintenance, if not now, soon. The radiator, hoses, t-stat and water pump are all tied in to coolant system.
- front end: very little to worry about, but check it over. How are the TRE's (tie rod ends)? How are the control arms and mounts? Get a buddy to turn the wheel back and forth a bit to see if it all looks tight.
- rust: likely spots are rocker panels, doors, sometimes corners of roof. Crawl underneath and see if you can poke a screwdriver thru any rust spots- check front seat foot wells, especially around drivers side.
- fluids: check every one you can to make sure it's full and not too old. Things like transfer case and differentials can't be checked so easily but are easy to change after purchase.
- test drive: starts, stops, corners, bumps, forwards, backwards, in 2wd and 4hi and 4lo. Jeeps aren't exactly luxury machines so expect a few noises you're not used to hearing but don't expect excess pops and clunks. That's a sign of worn out steering components like ball joints, tre's, sway bar bushings, etc..
- what else... Idk.. Jeeps are great. You're novice mechanic status will quickly change once you're a jeep owner so will your tool supply. OH! Expect the CEL (check engine light) to be on. But don't panic. It's probably nothing. If you or a buddy doesn't have a scan tool, most parts stores and garages will check it. If someone wants money to check it, laugh derisively and slap their face with a glove indicating your alphaness over this individual.. But seriously, don't pay to have this done! Good luck and happy trails.
- electric components: windows, locks, switches, the list goes on. Make sure to press every button and turn every ***. Try the window/lock buttons from every door too.
- 4wd: it is either equipped with an NP242 or an NP231. (NP= New Process, company that made em). There are a couple differences, but they are very comparable. The biggest is the difference between the two is the 242 has part time AND full time 4wd while the 231 only has part time. They both have 4lo. Part time will cause binding on pavement and is recommended for off road only. The 242 has a viscous coupler that allows it to be in 4wd without causing binding on pavement, this is the full time option. The 231 is slightly stronger because of no viscous coupler... Slightly..
- rear axle: again, there will be two options here. It will either have a C8.25 or a D35. (C= Chrysler, D= Dana) now this is a bigger deal than the 4wd because the D35 is notoriously weak and is prone to failure under stress. Bigger tires and aggressive throttle will greatly increase the possibility of failure. However, some have wheeled D35's without issue.. Look up jeep rear axle diagram (or similar) to see what differential looks like, easiest way to tell which one it is.
- coolant system: chances are it will need maintenance, if not now, soon. The radiator, hoses, t-stat and water pump are all tied in to coolant system.
- front end: very little to worry about, but check it over. How are the TRE's (tie rod ends)? How are the control arms and mounts? Get a buddy to turn the wheel back and forth a bit to see if it all looks tight.
- rust: likely spots are rocker panels, doors, sometimes corners of roof. Crawl underneath and see if you can poke a screwdriver thru any rust spots- check front seat foot wells, especially around drivers side.
- fluids: check every one you can to make sure it's full and not too old. Things like transfer case and differentials can't be checked so easily but are easy to change after purchase.
- test drive: starts, stops, corners, bumps, forwards, backwards, in 2wd and 4hi and 4lo. Jeeps aren't exactly luxury machines so expect a few noises you're not used to hearing but don't expect excess pops and clunks. That's a sign of worn out steering components like ball joints, tre's, sway bar bushings, etc..
- what else... Idk.. Jeeps are great. You're novice mechanic status will quickly change once you're a jeep owner
so will your tool supply. OH! Expect the CEL (check engine light) to be on. But don't panic. It's probably nothing. If you or a buddy doesn't have a scan tool, most parts stores and garages will check it. If someone wants money to check it, laugh derisively and slap their face with a glove indicating your alphaness over this individual.. But seriously, don't pay to have this done! Good luck and happy trails.Last edited by AfroFogey; 07-19-2015 at 03:54 AM.
07-19-2015, 03:56 AM
#9
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Year: 2007
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
Are you willing to learn?
If you're talking about buying a 17 year old vehicle (of any make, not just a Jeep), it's going to need maintenance and repairs. If you pay someone to do the work, it adds up. An old vehicle can often cost more than a newer one when you factor in the work it will need as it ages.
However, these things are not particularly difficult to work on, and there is a wealth of information on this board and other places on the internet to help you. IF you're willing to learn to do the work. We've had some complete novices tackle their own work and fall flat on their faces, while others have taken a shine to it and done quite well.
Just something to think about.
If you're talking about buying a 17 year old vehicle (of any make, not just a Jeep), it's going to need maintenance and repairs. If you pay someone to do the work, it adds up. An old vehicle can often cost more than a newer one when you factor in the work it will need as it ages.
However, these things are not particularly difficult to work on, and there is a wealth of information on this board and other places on the internet to help you. IF you're willing to learn to do the work. We've had some complete novices tackle their own work and fall flat on their faces, while others have taken a shine to it and done quite well.
Just something to think about.
07-19-2015, 09:01 AM
#11
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thank you good Sir! Sorry for the delayed response! This was a most helpful post. I ended up buying a 2wd 2000 Grand Cherokee with 126k on the odometer. But I did use your checklist. I chose the Grand Cherokee, despite preferring the other body style, over the others mainly due to the low miles and the convenience of purchasing, since it was in the same city. I'd have to drive around an hour away for the others.
07-27-2015, 02:35 PM
#12
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Year: 2007
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
Well then, congrats and welcome to the addiction. I see you opted for a GC over a Cherokee, there is a separate spot for GC discussions so make sure future posts go there. You'll get much better responses! Grands are a bit more comfy than xj's so you will enjoy that. It's a RWD so you must not be planning on wheeling/much. Any plans for the new toy?
07-27-2015, 05:44 PM
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Right on, your rig will last you a little longer if ya don't slam it around the trails. And when you do need to negotiate some tricky terrain you will be grinnin. Happy trails!
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