tlang

So I got excited about ordering a d30 with 4:10's and didnt pay close enough attention and orderd one out of a YJ.

SO I have a couple questions. 90% of the mounts I could fab/rob from another/ make work. The UCA mount on top of the pumpkin worries me as I would be welding to cast. I have always heard this was not a good idea.

Also This is a HP and mine is a LP. I have fully adj UCA & LCA, Im thinking this should help, but off the top of my head being a HP should be better on my pinion angle right?

It is hgoing to be more work than I wanted but Im thingking I could convert the vac disconnect to cable and run a lunch box up front. Thoughts on this? Mine is a 2000 xj 4.0 a4 so it never had the vac deal. Im also wondering if the kit will bolt up to my transfer case.

Does any one have experience with this?

If not this bad boy is for sale.

jbsjunk

Depending on which case you have will determine which SYE kit you go with.

I would just suck it up and get the right diff from the go. All the brackets will not go on the new diff right and cutting them off the other will be a challenge. HP is better than LP and it bolts in.

I have the vacuum disco on mine and just slid the gear over and put the clip back in.

alpine.adrenaline

The vacuum disco isn't necessary- you can open it up and slide the fork to the 4wd position permanently because your 4wd is disconnected in the transfer case- that axle disconnect is redundant.


Chances are you're going to have 1310 yokes and pinions on your transfer case and axles. The high pinion D30 will reduce driveline vibration by raising the driveshaft-to-axle connection point.


My memory is a little foggy on this, but the only issue you may have with control arm mounts is the angle on the tube- I seem to remember that either TJ's or YJ's had more tilt to their mounts while the Cherokee's mounts on the D30 are more lateral. Nonetheless your adjustable control arms should compensate.


Welding to the cast is fine if you heat and cool it properly. Use a nickel rod if it's cast iron (which I don't think it is) and 7018 if its cast steel. Use a torch to preheat and post-heat the weld areas. If you can do it prior to install, being able to turn the axle will help you weld uphill- you'll need decent penetration.

tlang

SYE kit? The dana 30 is the front. I already have a SYE.

I did read about the c clip trick on the front disco unit. But if I had the cable version I would think it would allow a front locker to be a selectable locker.

I agree, and have no problem with getting the right stuff but this is what I got and was trying to count my eggs before I decide what basket to go with.

Has any one done this swap?

jbsjunk

The YJ is a leaf spring diff. The TJ is coils.

tlang

My thought on the disconnect was It could essentially be a selectable locker with an auto locker.

I would be using a 110 mig welder. Deosnt sound like I would have enough oomph there.

The YJ is a leaf sprung front end so essentially I would need to strip everything off and weld on the appropriate buckets, sway bar mounts and control arm mounts. This is the part that concerns me. I know with a ford 8.8 rear swap, I would be relocating but there are tons of write ups on that. Not so much with this one.

It sounds like I should sell this one and probably take a hit on the cost and start over. I was just wondering if it was salvageable.

caged

if you can't send it back, you should sell it and get a hp d30 from a 99 xj.

those vac disconnects are a pita on a good day, and those posi lok cables just outright suck.

just get the proper axle and be done with it.

xjmarc

Find a cheap HP axle out of an XJ and swap the ring and pinion. The YJ axle has smaller axle shafts than your current axle and is way more work to swap than what it's worth. Also unless you're running 31s or have a manual, 4.10s won't make much of a difference from your stock gears.

tlang

Thanks guys this is the sort of info I was looking for. I think Im going to have to take a hit on selling it and move on chalk it up as a lesson!