Dirty Little XJ Secrets
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Dirty Little XJ Secrets
Throughout the forum are tons of neat little tips and tricks that XJ owners have picked up over the years. It's great to have such a large resources for these tricks, but the one problem is that you usually won't discover them unless you're specifically researching that particular topic.
So I thought it would be a good idea to make a single thread in which people can post their Dirty Little XJ Secrets. I will continually update this post to add each tip and trick as they are posted, and maybe if the thread goes well, a Moderator will make this thread a Sticky at the top of the forum for all Jeepers to see.
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Fixing your passenger power window controls
If the power windows in your XJ only seem to work via the driver's door control switch, then there's a good chance that the Window Lock button has failed, permanently locking out the passengers switches.
You can either:
A) Replace the driver's door master switch,
B) Take apart the master switch and fix the problem, or
C) Jump the wiring harness with a paper clip to eliminate the lock out switch and therefore the problem altogether.
I chose C), personally, because it was the least expensive and time consuming option, and the only passengers in my Jeep are adults so I don't have any reason to want to lock the windows.
To do this, you'll need to remove the trim piece that goes along the bottom left side of the driver's footwell, under the dash. Once you have that off, you'll see a wiring connector with a yellow, tan and black wire. All you need to do is take a paper clip and cut the ends off, leaving as much length as possible, so it's in the shape of a U. Insert one end into the connector, touching the metal on the yellow wire, then insert the other end the same way on the tan wire.
What this does is permanently completes the circuit that the window lock switch operates, so your passenger switches will work. It DOES NOT fix the window lock switch itself, that switch will remain completely useless.
---------------------------------
Rough idle when started hot
This is a very common problem with the fuel injected 4.0, and it's a result of heat soak.
On a hot day, you've just driven your XJ up to operating temperatures, used the A/C, then stopped at a store and shut the engine off to run in. When you come out 10 minutes later and start your engine, you'll notice that it's running really, really rough, and takes a little bit to smooth out.
Apparently this is due to the fact that under-hood temperatures rise a lot when there's no air passing through (as in, while the vehicle is in motion), and because of the placement of the fuel injectors, being basically right on top of the exhaust manifold, they get hotter than they're supposed to and boil the fuel inside. When you start your engine, those particular cylinders are not getting fuel, they're getting vapor, and it takes a moment for fresh, cold fuel to flow through.
There's a Technical Service Bulletin out for this issue, claiming injector #3 as the problematic injector and citing a "heat shield" that will eliminate the problem, however I installed the Chrysler supplied heat shield on Injector #3 and I still have the problem, though it's not as common as it once was and it seems to take a hotter day than before.
Possible solutions:
A) Electric cooling fan that runs momentarily after the engine is stopped
B) Upgrade the fuel injectors
C) Install an adequate heat shield
So I thought it would be a good idea to make a single thread in which people can post their Dirty Little XJ Secrets. I will continually update this post to add each tip and trick as they are posted, and maybe if the thread goes well, a Moderator will make this thread a Sticky at the top of the forum for all Jeepers to see.
--------------------------------------------------
Fixing your passenger power window controls
If the power windows in your XJ only seem to work via the driver's door control switch, then there's a good chance that the Window Lock button has failed, permanently locking out the passengers switches.
You can either:
A) Replace the driver's door master switch,
B) Take apart the master switch and fix the problem, or
C) Jump the wiring harness with a paper clip to eliminate the lock out switch and therefore the problem altogether.
I chose C), personally, because it was the least expensive and time consuming option, and the only passengers in my Jeep are adults so I don't have any reason to want to lock the windows.
To do this, you'll need to remove the trim piece that goes along the bottom left side of the driver's footwell, under the dash. Once you have that off, you'll see a wiring connector with a yellow, tan and black wire. All you need to do is take a paper clip and cut the ends off, leaving as much length as possible, so it's in the shape of a U. Insert one end into the connector, touching the metal on the yellow wire, then insert the other end the same way on the tan wire.
What this does is permanently completes the circuit that the window lock switch operates, so your passenger switches will work. It DOES NOT fix the window lock switch itself, that switch will remain completely useless.
---------------------------------
Rough idle when started hot
This is a very common problem with the fuel injected 4.0, and it's a result of heat soak.
On a hot day, you've just driven your XJ up to operating temperatures, used the A/C, then stopped at a store and shut the engine off to run in. When you come out 10 minutes later and start your engine, you'll notice that it's running really, really rough, and takes a little bit to smooth out.
Apparently this is due to the fact that under-hood temperatures rise a lot when there's no air passing through (as in, while the vehicle is in motion), and because of the placement of the fuel injectors, being basically right on top of the exhaust manifold, they get hotter than they're supposed to and boil the fuel inside. When you start your engine, those particular cylinders are not getting fuel, they're getting vapor, and it takes a moment for fresh, cold fuel to flow through.
There's a Technical Service Bulletin out for this issue, claiming injector #3 as the problematic injector and citing a "heat shield" that will eliminate the problem, however I installed the Chrysler supplied heat shield on Injector #3 and I still have the problem, though it's not as common as it once was and it seems to take a hotter day than before.
Possible solutions:
A) Electric cooling fan that runs momentarily after the engine is stopped
B) Upgrade the fuel injectors
C) Install an adequate heat shield
#2
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#3
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Jump the ballast resistor with a piece of 12ga wire and 2 male "spade" connectors.
General consensus is that its useless and was just put there because people complained about fuel pump noise.
General consensus is that its useless and was just put there because people complained about fuel pump noise.
#4
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6 4.0L
When I bought my Jeep none of the passenger windows worked. So I removed the driver's side door panel and unplugged the wiring harness, dusted it off, and plugged it back in and now they work every time!
#5
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Install washers on the hood hinges to give the back of the hood a little rise off the weatherstrip. Lets the hot air escape through the back of the hood. Done it to the 7 I have owned and never ran hot
#6
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0 HO
If you do the paper clip thing please make sure the vehicle is off. I just did this and got shocked and burnt the paper clip onto my fingers
#7
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Year: 99
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Originally Posted by Mrdiaz09
If you do the paper clip thing please make sure the vehicle is off. I just did this and got shocked and burnt the paper clip onto my fingers
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#9
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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When I bought my XJ it didn't have a rear wiper so anytime some one tailgates they get a free car wash. To make it spray further I added some extra irrigation hose and melted it down to a point.
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
#12
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#13
just got my license today and a mustang was tailgating me while i was headed home from visiting family i wish i could have done that but my washer fluid leaks really bad straight out of the reservoir
#14
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I first did this on my new 1966 Dodge Hemi that ran a bit hot cured that problem with this simple mod. It is one of the first things I did to my XJ when I bought it just because it had no insulation on the hood and that was starting to show on the paint. It cooled everything down some even the metal on the hood as well as engine temps.
This costs under a buck for a few washers and gets rid of more heat than vents in the hood, because of the location.