Anyone ever run nitrous on a 4.0??
#17
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Ya'll really should start looking up performance specs and compare before you start spewing this kinda stuff...
#20
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Year: 1996
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dont start getting butt hurt because the Jeep 4.0L isnt the best I6 ever made, I think we can all accept there are better engines out there
and comparing it to the garbage v8s that had largely remained the same since the 60s?
#21
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
well designed 4.0L and even smaller 6cyls in the 90s made more power than our 4.0L, and most of the remaining WELL DESIGNED v6s in the 90s made more power/volume than ours.
dont start getting butt hurt because the Jeep 4.0L isnt the best I6 ever made, I think we can all accept there are better engines out there
and comparing it to the garbage v8s that had largely remained the same since the 60s?
dont start getting butt hurt because the Jeep 4.0L isnt the best I6 ever made, I think we can all accept there are better engines out there
and comparing it to the garbage v8s that had largely remained the same since the 60s?
#22
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Year: 1996
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wait, so if I want to take about good engines, i have to keep it to 4x4s? WTF kind of sense does that make? Trucks and SUVs, especially in the 90s, are known to have little invested in development, just look at how little the cherokee changed from beginning to end. so how the heck would looking only at 4x4s make sense? Well designed pretty much means not a pushrod engine, preferably an engine with constantly variable cam timing on at least the intake cam(s), coil over plug (though the dist in our 4.0L is ok). There are various other items regarding intake and exhaust that could be better though I feel the Jeep 4.0L is fair for an OEM setup.
And FYI, I was defending his choice of using nitrous in the first place and not debating his powerplant, feel free to actually read the thread and report back
And FYI, I was defending his choice of using nitrous in the first place and not debating his powerplant, feel free to actually read the thread and report back
Last edited by Hoooper; 09-26-2011 at 10:15 PM.
#23
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd rather not debate about what's the greatest 6cyl ever. In my opinion they're slower than **** out of the box, but can be made to go a little better. I just want to make it go a lot better. That being said, it is still a great engine. Nobody should expect a straight 6 to be fast. They are reliable. Not impressed with the torque, they only seem to move between 3500 and 5k. I wouldn't say they are the most reliable engine ever, they have nothing on a 4.9 Ford. But they work fine to move a little Jeep around and I haven't killed mine yet.
And there is nothing wrong with 1960s technology. All this fancy new electronic bs is just more to break. Do you see NASCAR using coil on plug, efi, overhead cams or any other fancy **** to make 900hp from a naturally aspirated 358 cui? Nope. Just a junk 1960s technology, small displacement, carbureted, pushrod small block. With compression, camshaft, cylinder head and carb rules holding it back to boot. But they're not reliable I guess, they will only last 600+ miles wide open at 9500rpm.
Guess I will just let everyone know how long a 4.0 will live on the bottle.
And there is nothing wrong with 1960s technology. All this fancy new electronic bs is just more to break. Do you see NASCAR using coil on plug, efi, overhead cams or any other fancy **** to make 900hp from a naturally aspirated 358 cui? Nope. Just a junk 1960s technology, small displacement, carbureted, pushrod small block. With compression, camshaft, cylinder head and carb rules holding it back to boot. But they're not reliable I guess, they will only last 600+ miles wide open at 9500rpm.
Guess I will just let everyone know how long a 4.0 will live on the bottle.
#24
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
lol, most of your stock motors in your trucks were slower than dog turds back then. But we'll leave that dead horse lay. How many miles did you say you have on that motor? You happen to regear when you went to those 35's? That's the biggest problem I see as far as your motor, trans, transfer case and driveshafts.
@Hooper - Yes. 4x4 engines... this is going in a 4x4, not an indycar. two completely different animals. FYI, dual overhead cams and coil packs can kick rocks, along with their aluminum blocks. Don't get me wrong, I got all that on my bike, but that wouldn't hold up very well climbing over rocks and logs or bashing through mud. Just an opinion.
@Hooper - Yes. 4x4 engines... this is going in a 4x4, not an indycar. two completely different animals. FYI, dual overhead cams and coil packs can kick rocks, along with their aluminum blocks. Don't get me wrong, I got all that on my bike, but that wouldn't hold up very well climbing over rocks and logs or bashing through mud. Just an opinion.
Last edited by Donnie_K; 09-27-2011 at 08:00 AM.
#25
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
blah blah blah LOL
The 4.0L is a great start with the 8.8-1 compression ratio, which is great for adding boost/n20, I would keep it at a 50-100 shot wet. you will want a wet shot to compensate for the added air/compression. the factory fuel system will not handle the added shot fast enough and will cause it to lean out while spraying.
You will also need to get a wide band setup to moniter the rich/lean condition to watch for any signs of fituige/failure before it costs you a motor. Your also going to want to get colder spark plugs 2-3 heat ranges depending on the size of the shot, to help with predetonation.
A lot of people will recomend letting off the spray between shifts to limit the flare up between gears. I would also recomend window switches, one that will only spray at rull throttle, and one that will cut spray 500-1000 before redline. (don't want to spray into reline )
Do it right and have a lot of reliable fun at the push of a button, cheap out and the fun time is limited with a costly aftermath. do a lot of reading on n20 and what people have had work and fail on the 4.0L.
Good luck, N20 is amazing!
The 4.0L is a great start with the 8.8-1 compression ratio, which is great for adding boost/n20, I would keep it at a 50-100 shot wet. you will want a wet shot to compensate for the added air/compression. the factory fuel system will not handle the added shot fast enough and will cause it to lean out while spraying.
You will also need to get a wide band setup to moniter the rich/lean condition to watch for any signs of fituige/failure before it costs you a motor. Your also going to want to get colder spark plugs 2-3 heat ranges depending on the size of the shot, to help with predetonation.
A lot of people will recomend letting off the spray between shifts to limit the flare up between gears. I would also recomend window switches, one that will only spray at rull throttle, and one that will cut spray 500-1000 before redline. (don't want to spray into reline )
Do it right and have a lot of reliable fun at the push of a button, cheap out and the fun time is limited with a costly aftermath. do a lot of reading on n20 and what people have had work and fail on the 4.0L.
Good luck, N20 is amazing!
Last edited by Gorillaxj; 09-27-2011 at 09:24 AM.
#27
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
here is a thread from this site about a year ago... from what it says run a 50-75. there are kits made for the 4.0L, I would do some researcha nd talk witht htese companys about the experience people have had. what a lot of poeple don't know is that its anot that cheap to setup correctly. but it is cheaper then the alternatives.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/nit...herokee-60496/
Nitrous is like a gold digging, bit%$y girlfriend that you keep around for the amazing sex.
lol
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/nit...herokee-60496/
Nitrous is like a gold digging, bit%$y girlfriend that you keep around for the amazing sex.
lol
#28
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@Hooper - Yes. 4x4 engines... this is going in a 4x4, not an indycar. two completely different animals. FYI, dual overhead cams and coil packs can kick rocks, along with their aluminum blocks. Don't get me wrong, I got all that on my bike, but that wouldn't hold up very well climbing over rocks and logs or bashing through mud. Just an opinion.
#29
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
No need for name callin' son. You go get your little vtech honda with the variable valve timing and coil packs, and fart can muffler and burn up those streets. Us grown folk will be on the trail somewhere in our big slow 4x4's, except the couple that are out there with us with their nitrous kits. Have fun, and watch out for those speeding tickets.