XJC1

I picked up this short style for 14 bolt rear end does anyone know if I can use this short style to keep close to Jeep Cherokee stock wheel base? 14 bolt shares same width measument as stock 8.25 axle

XJlimitedx99

Not sure what you're really asking but I think you answered your own question.

XJC1

OK. Sounds like I did too after I read it to my self. The " long" version of the fourteen bolt gm axles measure 63" back plate to back plate. The pictured above axle measures 53". The Crys 8.25 axle also measures 53". I still need my jeep to be street legal given its my DD. Swapping the 14 bolt in would gain the 30 spline FF (full float) axle and the stronger axle tube and differential housing.

Does that seem like a good idea. The axle pictured came with 4.10 gearing.

Atmos

I'm going to guess and say you have a Cab and Chassis 14 bolt. it is 63" wms-wms and your Chrysler is like 61"
your average 14 bolt should be 67" so I'm not sure where you're measuring from to get 53"

is a 14 bolt a good idea? yes. cab and chassis? not really, what front axle are you going to match it with? a D60 is 69.5" wide so you're going to have a huge difference. I run full width axles with 4.5" back space and that keeps it pretty narrow

unidentifiedbomb

Yea XJ axles are 60"s.. you using a standard inch ruler there?

gpXJ

Since I don't see any rotors or drums, I'm guessing he is measuring backing plate to backing plate.

XJC1

Try everyone. I did measure back plate to back plate. Measuring end of hub to end of hub I get 67". So it is the correct size. Sae\mm measuring tape used. Atmos states an issue on 60 front axles and me question would be that I couldn't cut the axle tubes to match with of rear end? I now understand that these measurements would increase my wheel base with the 14 bolt at 67". No idea on front axle simply because I haven't gotten that far. I know I need stronger axles to wheel harder so local yard had a " customer appreciation day" so grabbed one for $69 dollars out the door not know what I really even got!! But I was excited haha . shoot some pointer for idea on front please. Thanks you for getting me clearer sight

SeriousOffroad

The 14 bolt has a HUGE diff. Unless you're running at least 37's and you install a shave kit....you'll be plowing instead of wheeling.

Atmos

Like I said you can run 4.5" back space or 5" and maintain very reasonable width. Serious is right the 14b is huge you will need 37's and a shave. You've got a lot of work on your hands. If you disc it, that axle will weight 475lbs or so. The front will be more with steering. You got a great deal on a good axle, I'd turn around and try to sell it for a profit. A 1 Tom build means cage, suspension, frame plates, everything. It's a big time build and I'm well over budget on mine.

Yes you can narrow a 60 and machine the shaft. But that's a hefty amount of work for little difference.

XJwonders

I know somebody with a 14b rear on 35's. He keep dragging it over the rocks all day long and usually slow the group down to the point that we have to wait for him to catch up.

37s or larger with the shave kit is the way to go, like Serious Off-road and Atmos said.

XJC1

I pulled that off of a 92 suburban. Is there anything different on this 14 bolt other than that you can pull drums off without taking shafts out and hub off?

Atmos

maybe that bit of info is in here? http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/

XJNVA

X4 on the shave. Make it a 13 bolt 8)

To keep the WB down, you could run H2 (17") or H1'(16.5") wheels. You could even run HUMVEE take-offs (H1 beadlocks w/ Goodyear OZ 37x12.5.) You can find them VERY cheap from sites like Trailworthyfab, military auctions, or Craigslist.

They're not the greatest tires in the world, and they're rather heavy, but they wear like steel and there's many different methods on how to groove them for better traction on Pirate.