XJwonders

What grade is the base and the filler? The color doesn't look right. U using hundred percent argon?


It looks like the base metal is 304 and ur using 308L filler

XJwonders

Made this at work today. Entirely out of stainless steel

tssguy123

wat

XJwonders

Robotic mig welders don't count haha

tssguy123

pretty sure it wasn't. also that's tig

the guy said it was on a rotary table, lol.



there's this too... done by a robot (yag lasers) but it's still insanely good looking.

XJwonders

Just looked at it again. If it's on a rotary table, it would make sense but the welding look way too uniform. Either he didn't use filler rod or he used automated TIG feeder

tssguy123

dunno, lol. I have no clue about welding. I just thought I'd post it here because it's about the cleanest looking weld I've ever seen

XJwonders

Yeah it is

Skeeter_Leg

Wire brush/wheel it and post another pic. If it is still dull and discolored, first of all, it's probably fine but, for posterity, the weld could be contaminated, ie. metal is overworked, slag inclusions from cutting with plasma etc., base metal rust, tungsten inclusions, inappropriate inert gas mixture, wrong polarity (for TIG, polarity should be opposite from stick, to put it simply), inappropriate filler wire, etc.

All welding surfaces should be cleaned, for TIG welding especially. Slick! Shiny. And free of sandblast media, oil, grease, anything but metal.

If polarity is the issue, the main difference will be penetration. If the base metal is thin, a little less penetration won't hurt you, as with stainless, excessive penetration can cause "sugaring" in the root or back of base metal. Sugared weld appears darker. When welding tubing, with full penetration, all openings in tubing should be sealed off and purged with 100% argon. Only 100% argon should be used with TIG welding applications in general. A 75/25 mix will cause discoloration.

With regard to filler wire, stainless should always be upgraded. Never downgrade. This is code. Using 308 filler wire with 304 base metal is appropriate. However, when welding stainless to carbon, 309 should always be used. 309 is the only filler wire approved for stainless to carbon weld.

I hope this is helpful. No criticism here - just trying to contribute to the pool of information.

Skeeter_Leg

It's worth whatever you have to do to make it happen with a MIG welder. That is, if you plan to weld it rather than fasten it. It can also be done with TIG if you're experienced with welding around 40 amps without blistering the back side of the base metal. I have to stress the experience part of that. Without that, you might as well try to weld it with a plasma cutter. Good luck!

Skeeter_Leg

All of this talk about cleaning base metal reminds me of something:

Brake cleaner works wonderfully for cleaning oil and grease from metal surfaces but, remember this. Welding on a surface with brake cleaner residue will/can kill you. Pneumonia if you're lucky. Please be sure to clean off any brake cleaner on and around the welding/burning surface before performing any hot-work.

A friend of mine discovered this the hard way, welding the rear diff on a friend's wheeler.

Use something else if possible. I've heard of a product called Amazing Roll Off that is supposed to work really well for cleaning oil build up. Supposed to be safe on all surfaces. Not sure whether it is caustic/non-caustic or not. Don't drink it, to be safe. Just that the active ingredient is a living enzyme that breaks the oil down and turns it into something harmless.

JerrytheJeep

What about mineral spirits or acetone?

Skeeter_Leg

Ha! Must have slipped my mind. I've used both effectively and with no ill effects.

Skeeter_Leg

And lacquer thinner

Skeeter_Leg

To answer this question: it can be done on 1/8"+ material. It is difficult. I'm assuming the small diameter rods you're talking about are 60/10 or 70/10 rods. These rods are designed for deep penetration. Also of note, they are designed to produce slag that is easily burned out with a cover pass, using something like a 70/18. 60/10s and 70/10s are typically used for a root pass although, they can be used for finish welding also. They are a smaller diameter, not due to the diameter of the filler metal beneath the flux but, due to the fact that the flux on these rods is thinner, which pertains to the slag's unique ability to be burned out in a cover pass. I have never seen a stick rod smaller than 3/32". That doesn't mean that there isn't a 1/16" stick rod out there but, I've never seen one so, the likelihood is slim. TIG wire does come in 1/16" diameter. If you decide to stick weld thin metal, you should know how to stick weld down hill. This is an acquired skill. It takes a lot of practice, and excellent puddle control. MIG, unless using flux core, should also be welded down hill.

If anyone is interested in learning to stick weld down hill, the concept is simple, unlike the practice. First, practice on a minimum 1/4" plate. My technique with 3/32" 70/18 rods: weave side to side, width no more than 1 1/2 times the diameter of the rod, with flux. Hold your sides. As you hold each side, watch the slag drip down or sag below your next move with the electrode, as not to weld over slag, trapping it in the weld. There is room for some error here. Continue in this fashion, weaving side to side, until the weld has been made or the rod gets hot or burns down. The end of the weld will most likely have what we call a donkey d***. Grind that off. The weld will be very flat, very smooth, and very thin. If possible, make two passes this way, leaving the weld time to cool between passes. Then weld one pass up hill to thicken the weld, as one down hill pass is so thin, it is likely to crack right down the middle after being stressed. This technique is strictly used to make your first couple of passes when welding thin metal, to keep from burning out the base metal.

It is, however, much easier to weld down hill with a 3/32" 60/10 or 70/10. With this technique, you won't have to wait so long (or sometimes, at all) for the slag to drip down away from the puddle, allowing you to weld faster, thereby preventing you from putting too much heat in one place, burning out the base metal. It is also much easier to clean the slag. This is what I would recommend for general down hill stick welding. I prefer 70/10 although, there is little difference between the two, for common purposes.

Again, do not attempt this without loads of practice and at least 1/8" thickness material.