long arm build
#16
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Location: Justin, TEXAS
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Unfortunately a cage and my boat sides are needed before the tons. With that said in the next couple months be on the lookout for my boat sides thread. It's not gonna be the average 2x6 rockers I'll tell you that much!
Then I'll chop it and get the cage going, probably gonna put that in the same thread.
I wanna get some more use out of my current axles I just built before I sell them for a total loss lol.
#18
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
My rockers are at the bottom of the door sill. I like the clearance, but it could be a lot more cool with boatsides. The problem I ran in to was wanting to keep some kind of door and if I moved them up as high as I wanted the half door would be like 8" wide.
Look up the sound of inevitability on NAXJA. Good boatside thread.
Look up the sound of inevitability on NAXJA. Good boatside thread.
#20
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My rockers are at the bottom of the door sill. I like the clearance, but it could be a lot more cool with boatsides. The problem I ran in to was wanting to keep some kind of door and if I moved them up as high as I wanted the half door would be like 8" wide.
Look up the sound of inevitability on NAXJA. Good boatside thread.
Look up the sound of inevitability on NAXJA. Good boatside thread.
I've read through the unibody boat sides and slider thread on pirate too many times lol
#23
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm debating on a 14 floater and only plan to run 37s. While it might be a little overkill, the reliability factor is there. You could thrash it and still be dependable.
#26
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well guys atoms and 94xjsport94 we're right. Should have built a 3 link with a crossmember to raise the lowers up a tad. They were rock anchors at Arbuckle offroad park. Also the radius arms folded my stock uca tower and I crushed the stock lca brackets on the axle. Ruff stuff lca and uca tower will fix all this.
Don't get me wrong I love the long arms I just put alot of work into them when I could have gone a step farther and done a 3 link.
Ohh well when I get tons I'll turn em into a 3 link without too much trouble.
These things will droop my axle about 14" if I don't have shocks on her! My 12" travel shocks max out lol
Don't get me wrong I love the long arms I just put alot of work into them when I could have gone a step farther and done a 3 link.
Ohh well when I get tons I'll turn em into a 3 link without too much trouble.
These things will droop my axle about 14" if I don't have shocks on her! My 12" travel shocks max out lol
#27
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 MPI Power Tech HO
so i have a questionfor you fellas. i dont want to hijack the thread just curious on what you all will think. i just purchased the same Ruff Stuff DIY long arm kit and i was thinking of welding the mounts for the long arms to my frame stiffeners about 2-4 inches forward of the trans cross member. do you guys think this is a bad idea? i wanna make a new flat cross member that incorporates a tanny pan skid and transfer case skid along with clocking my transfer case. i plan to only stay on a set of 35s as this is my DD and stick with a build d30 in the front and built 8.25 in the rear. do you think i should just spend my time making a cross member that incorporates the long arm mounts or do you think i will be fine with trimming the mounts down a little and welding them to the frame in front of where the cross member mounts?
#29
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
so i have a questionfor you fellas. i dont want to hijack the thread just curious on what you all will think. i just purchased the same Ruff Stuff DIY long arm kit and i was thinking of welding the mounts for the long arms to my frame stiffeners about 2-4 inches forward of the trans cross member. do you guys think this is a bad idea? i wanna make a new flat cross member that incorporates a tanny pan skid and transfer case skid along with clocking my transfer case. i plan to only stay on a set of 35s as this is my DD and stick with a build d30 in the front and built 8.25 in the rear. do you think i should just spend my time making a cross member that incorporates the long arm mounts or do you think i will be fine with trimming the mounts down a little and welding them to the frame in front of where the cross member mounts?
#30
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 MPI Power Tech HO
If your going through the trouble to build long arms don't put the mounts in front of the crossmember. They wouldn't give you the desired ride or travel you want losing that 6 or so inches of arm length resulting in a steeper angle. Build the link mounts into the crossmember as high as you can to avoid catching them on rocks. There's some good crossmember builds on pirate
thank you very much! ill go and see what I can find over on pirate!