long arm build
01-13-2015, 10:33 PM
#1
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
long arm build
So I got a ruff stuff diy long arm kit.
I built them as radius arms. When I go to tons next year or so I'll be 're doing them as a 3 link.
Let get started.
First you gotta mock it up so you get the idea of what your building
Now that you have an idea of what your doing you need to decide on how you will be mounting these to the unibody. You can do that with the provided brackets welded directly to the frame or build/buy a long arm crossmember.
I chose to use the provided hangers and weld them directly behind the stock crossmember. (This is because I will soon be going to tons and I wanted to keep it cheap and simple for now)
Now you can begin tack welding, cutting, grooving the dom, heims, and brackets.
I built and cut the lowers to length first after tacking the frame side bracket.
Tig welded the bushing end cause it looked sweet!
Everything else was mig welded
Then after you get the lowers the length you want you need to weld the lower bracket on the lower arm for the upper link. I chose to put mine 14 and 5/8ths in from mounting hole at the bushing.
Now you can cut your uppers to length and weld the upper mounting bracket on the arm for the upper.
Finish up welding the frame hanger, and tighten all your bolts.
One side complete!
Repeat process for other side
By the way, I'm only 19 and no way in heck I'm that good of a welder so thanks to my buddy's boss Rocky for the sweet welding he did today!
I built them as radius arms. When I go to tons next year or so I'll be 're doing them as a 3 link.
Let get started.
First you gotta mock it up so you get the idea of what your building
Now that you have an idea of what your doing you need to decide on how you will be mounting these to the unibody. You can do that with the provided brackets welded directly to the frame or build/buy a long arm crossmember.
I chose to use the provided hangers and weld them directly behind the stock crossmember. (This is because I will soon be going to tons and I wanted to keep it cheap and simple for now)
Now you can begin tack welding, cutting, grooving the dom, heims, and brackets.
I built and cut the lowers to length first after tacking the frame side bracket.
Tig welded the bushing end cause it looked sweet!
Everything else was mig welded
Then after you get the lowers the length you want you need to weld the lower bracket on the lower arm for the upper link. I chose to put mine 14 and 5/8ths in from mounting hole at the bushing.
Now you can cut your uppers to length and weld the upper mounting bracket on the arm for the upper.
Finish up welding the frame hanger, and tighten all your bolts.
One side complete!
Repeat process for other side
By the way, I'm only 19 and no way in heck I'm that good of a welder so thanks to my buddy's boss Rocky for the sweet welding he did today!
01-15-2015, 12:26 PM
#5
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Do you have frame stiffeners or did you just weld them to the unibody frame? Why didn't you just build a three link now instead of having to convert it over later down the road? The HD Offroad brackets make it really simple, btw.
I think it looks good other than that.
I think it looks good other than that.
01-15-2015, 01:25 PM
#6
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 w/ tupy head
Do you have frame stiffeners or did you just weld them to the unibody frame? Why didn't you just build a three link now instead of having to convert it over later down the road? The HD Offroad brackets make it really simple, btw.
I think it looks good other than that.
I think it looks good other than that.
01-15-2015, 01:32 PM
#7
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
And, not that its a huge deal, but I would have built a replacement crossmember that will house the joints flush with the bottom of the crossmember or frame for hopes of a flat belly when all said and done. Where you have the brackets is encroaching on roughly where I would land rear 4 link frame brackets, but again thats only on my rig. I approve!
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01-15-2015, 02:55 PM
#8
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Agreed with 94XJ, but a sweet setup for a 19 year old for sure. You could always do the suggestions later and grind off the tabs.
01-15-2015, 03:34 PM
#9
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There are hd stiffeners under them brackets. I can easily go 3 link when I do my tons. I just wanted to keep it simple with the d30 for now.
And yes 94 xj, those arms will be freaking rock anchors for sure! They will get slid on like crazy. Again, just wanted to keep it simple until I tear it down for tons
And yes 94 xj, those arms will be freaking rock anchors for sure! They will get slid on like crazy. Again, just wanted to keep it simple until I tear it down for tons
01-15-2015, 04:15 PM
#10
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
nice welds. a problem I have with my setup is at full bump, the lower arms actually come in contact with the frame. how close do yours get at full bump?
03-14-2015, 11:51 AM
#14
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well guys atoms and 94xjsport94 we're right. Should have built a 3 link with a crossmember to raise the lowers up a tad. They were rock anchors at Arbuckle offroad park. Also the radius arms folded my stock uca tower and I crushed the stock lca brackets on the axle. Ruff stuff lca and uca tower will fix all this.
Don't get me wrong I love the long arms I just put alot of work into them when I could have gone a step farther and done a 3 link.
Ohh well when I get tons I'll turn em into a 3 link without too much trouble.
These things will droop my axle about 14" if I don't have shocks on her! My 12" travel shocks max out lol
Don't get me wrong I love the long arms I just put alot of work into them when I could have gone a step farther and done a 3 link.
Ohh well when I get tons I'll turn em into a 3 link without too much trouble.
These things will droop my axle about 14" if I don't have shocks on her! My 12" travel shocks max out lol
03-14-2015, 12:25 PM
#15
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
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if it's any consolation you have definitely done some of the nicer fab work on this forum. I hope this pushes you to get on that 1 ton swap ASAP because I want to see how it turns out
