94xjstud

I finally got my tax return ($400) and it want to do some upgrading.

I want to go OTK steering and I was think I may have figured out a way to do it.
I am going to drill out the knuckles and pitman and make a tab on the tie rod, use 3/4 heims http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/34-rod-end-set-1-lh-1-rh-p-338.html?osCsid=9dc081953bf6e9e80e0b0388e79acf19 at all these spots;
use some DOM (I am not sure what would fit or be best for this) for the drag link and tie rod set up.
Also since I am at 5" lift I think that its time to go with a double sheer Track Bar and I was thinking http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFX.
A rough picture of what it would look like. I would put the new tracbar on first and do the measurements and welding after.


I will just cut off the sway bar links as I dont ever use the sway bar anyways

Please give advise and suggestions. What would tubing should I use?

a1racer

Best advice I can give is search online some. I know over at another site there are tons of people who have done this. I would go with a 1.5 inch Dom for the drag link and a 1.25 for the crosover the larger size will hit the diff cover. And get the best rodends you can afford chromo for sure and try to set it up with the draglink on top and cross over on the bottom. to keep from stacking the ends on each other.

ktmracer419

if feasable

the wj knucke mod is well worthwhile on a dana30

you get better brakes and crossover steering.

with inverted 't" you may experience some tie rod roll

okcjeeper

Another option is buying DOM tubing, heims, misalignment washers and such and make your own.

Something like this..
http://www.adv4x4online.com/forum/in...p?topic=1135.0

ktmracer419

www.completeoffroad.com

sells a kit with the dom, tube adapters and tie rod ends all included for $220 free shipping

www.ballisticfabrication.com does the same with heims but a little more expensive

94xjstud

Ok so I have run into a little problem with my new steering. This is the kit I bought http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...rs_p_1335.html.
I have both knuckles and the pitman drilled out, and the heims in place. I also cut off the steering stabiliizer and swaybar links.
The problem is that when I cut the new tie rod to fit it is really big and is hitting the track bar bolt and limiting turning to the passenger side. So I am forced to go OTA with the tracbar

Here are some OTA brackets I have found, http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/media/s...K-SC300_01.jpg, http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1399.html, http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1629.html, http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/me..._Code=FABParts.

I assume that I am going to need a new tracbar with this, and will do a double sheer with (probably) this bracket http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...t-_p_1669.html.

Does anyone have any experience/advice with doing this or any brackets?

PingPong

When you changed your steering you needed to move your trac bar mount anyways. Keeping the trac bar and and drag link in the same angles is key to preventing bump steer.

4.3L XJ

From the looks of that bracket, you will end up shortening your current track bar. It also looks like it will raise the track bar mounting about 5-6", while you only raised your drag link about 2.5"

You are already into this, but the goal with track bar relocation and set up is to have the track bar mounts the same distance apart as the length of the drag link, and also at the same angle. If these conditions are met, there will be no bump steer. If not you will get some. I can't say how much, but some will occur.

If it was me doing this, and I have done so before, I would only raise the track bar mounting point as much as the drag link was raised. Unfortunately this will get you inside the coil spring, so you will have to shorten it a couple of inches. That will be the best you can do.

SeriousOffroad

Take the advice of someone that tried heim joints on a DD.

Don't Do It!!!!

Lots of people told me not to, I did it anyway. Wasted a lot of hard-earned cash and ended up going back to TRE's.

4.3L XJ

How come? I can guess, but I would like to hear it from you instead.

SeriousOffroad

Heims will wear out quickly on a rig that sees DD usage. I was going through 2 sets in about 18 months.....and I used QA1 ends!

The biggest problem was death wobble when the ends would wear out.

One of the main reasons I switched back was availability. Look at it this way, just about every autoparts store carries TRE's, but I've yet to find a regular parts house that carries heims.

Why is this important? Easy.
When you break down on a trail it's alot easier to find a TRE at a local parts store than it is a Heim. Yes you can ( and should) carry a spare, but that gets expensive when your paying $50 per joint. I can buy alot of TRE's for $100!

It's not just the cost of the heims, it's the correct misalignment washers/spacers to allow the heim to have the same range of motion as a TRE. They ain't cheap either.

For my money, a 1 ton steering set-up using Chevy TRE's is a far better option than heims.

94xjstud

Well I already bought the kit and cut the Tie Rod to length, sooo no going back now. It's not a true DD, but may get driven to the trails ( and hopefully back).

I know that I need to keep the drag link and tracbar at the same angle. So what I am thinking at this point is that I will get the JKS mount (use the appropriate hole) and use my RE track bar with the TRE for now, I'll just adjust it all the way in, and if it is still to long, I'll cut down where the treads are and clean them up, cause if it is adjusted all the way in there should be plenty of threads to spare.

Also when putting the heims in where do the spacers go?
Good or bad?

94xjstud

So I got everything welded in yesterday, took a couple of drives, 65+, and it did great. Tighter handling, with no sway bar is hard to get used to. Overall this was a pretty easy upgrade.
Step 1: Buy kit http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...rs_p_1335.html
2: Buy Rustys OTA track bar bracket, no link you just have to call.
3: Make accurate measurements on you steering now to use for steering later.
4: Take all steering and trackbar off, cut sway bar brackets, and unneeded/interferring material.
5: Drill both knuckles and pitman arm to accept a 5/8 bolt.
6: Put heims in all places, mock tubes up, measure and cut. It is better to cut too long.
7: Fit tubes in place, recut if needed
8: Well adaptor to tubes
9: Put it all together and set up alignment.
10: Weld Rustys brackets in.
11: Install new trackbar. Or cut down you current bar to fit (what I did).

Pass knuckle

Drivers knuckle

Rustys Brackets


RE Track Bar Cut and welded

Drag link and track bar

My welds

X1994J

Looks great man! I will be doing pretty much the exact same thing real soon.

trophyjeep

becareful with your set up.. i did the same thing and ended up braking the arm off the knuckle that I drilled out.. then it was a beatch getting it back to the trailer without steering... I ended up buying this knuckle from teraflex.. now it is bullet proof.....

http://www.sams4x4store.com/HighSteer.htm