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which electrode for welding unibody

Old 08-20-2014, 10:23 PM
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Moved to proper thread

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Old 08-21-2014, 10:56 PM
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mig wire .023
Old 08-23-2014, 03:45 PM
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3/32 7018 DCEP or 3/32 6013 DCEP
Old 08-23-2014, 11:37 PM
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My welder is ac only. Got advice to go with 3/32 6011. I know 6013 would give me a better appearance but will the weld be strong as a 6011 weld?
Old 08-23-2014, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by xjbub93
My welder is ac only. Got advice to go with 3/32 6011. I know 6013 would give me a better appearance but will the weld be strong as a 6011 weld?
6011 is kind of like a 6010 that can be used on AC. I wouldn't want to do it on AC honestly. I would try to find someone with a tig welder or a mig welder. Even a decent DC stick welder would be better.
Old 08-24-2014, 01:16 AM
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I would if I could believe me. I work at a machine shop and we have all kinds of welders there but I can't do that major of a job there and all I have at home is an ac225. I ran a couple beads on some scraps that are the same thickness and it seemed fine. What are the drawbacks that would make you do it with anything but ac?

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Old 08-24-2014, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by xjbub93
I would if I could believe me. I work at a machine shop and we have all kinds of welders there but I can't do that major of a job there and all I have at home is an ac225. I ran a couple beads on some scraps that are the same thickness and it seemed fine. What are the drawbacks that would make you do it with anything but ac?
AC is just not as easily controlled as DC. I'm not saying it's impossible, just that it would be much easier to do with DC. If all you have is an AC stick welder then just get your heat dialed in on some scraps and go to town. And remember, the key to a great weld isn't how good of a welder you are or how nice of a welding maching you have, it's how well you prep the material prior to welding. I've seen guys use $5000 Miller's and lay down garbage because they didn't prep the steel first.
Old 08-24-2014, 12:56 PM
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Ya I have notice its a lot more difficult to start and establish a solid arc on ac. Thanks a ton for the advice it'll help me not blow holes in my frame haha. Still got a couple things to take care of before I go ahead with this project but when I finish it ill post it here. Thanks again
Old 08-24-2014, 01:37 PM
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stick + thin steel = mess
Old 08-24-2014, 05:42 PM
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Fingers crossed hammered. Also I'm having one of my buddies who is a very experienced welder watch and help so if I mess anything up he'll be there to help fix it. I practiced on some 16 gauge and it went alright so I'm confident that it'll turn out alright.

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Old 08-24-2014, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by xjbub93
My welder is ac only. Got advice to go with 3/32 6011. I know 6013 would give me a better appearance but will the weld be strong as a 6011 weld?
6013 and 6011 are both rated at 60,000 psi.6011 is a pipe rod with a iron oxide flux so you don't have to clean off the slag as clean as 6013.It's also rated to run downhill but has allot of splatter compared to 6013. As a pipe rod it has better penetration and works on dirty material better but is only suggested for root passes. I would rather use 6013 where ever possible because of the splatter from 6011.
Old 08-25-2014, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BMAC6642

6013 and 6011 are both rated at 60,000 psi.6011 is a pipe rod with a iron oxide flux so you don't have to clean off the slag as clean as 6013.It's also rated to run downhill but has allot of splatter compared to 6013. As a pipe rod it has better penetration and works on dirty material better but is only suggested for root passes. I would rather use 6013 where ever possible because of the splatter from 6011.

So basically they are the same strength just 6011 will penetrate deeper ( which might be undesireable in my situation) and be uglier?
Old 08-26-2014, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by xjbub93
So basically they are the same strength just 6011 will penetrate deeper ( which might be undesireable in my situation) and be uglier?
6011 solidifies faster than 6013 which is why you can run it downhill. If you burn a hole you can just strike arcs to fill in the hole,kind of like with a wire-feeder. If it's flat or horizontal I would use 6013. You can also run 7018 on A/C but you have to hold a longer arc than on D/C but it is rated at 70,000 psi. I have ran some quick passes downhill as a root pass and weaved a vertical on top of it for strength. If possible your best bet would be a D/C welder or a wire-feeder. As far as being ugly that's what grinders are for.
Old 08-27-2014, 01:54 PM
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What I'm welding is some new shackle hangers so I'm welding a 1/8 backup plate to the unibody then welding the shackle hangers to that plate. I could either weld it all overhead or weld the hangers to the plate flat first then weld it all overhead to the unibody. I just don't want to warp the plate before I weld it to the body so it sits right
Old 08-27-2014, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BMAC6642
As far as being ugly that's what grinders are for.
Using a grinder to clean up your welds makes you a grinder, not a welder. We've all made ****ty welds and needed to clean them up but, you shouldn't use that as a go-to.

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