Custom front winch bumper build and rear bumper
#1
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Location: Illinois
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
Custom front winch bumper build and rear bumper
Hello my fellow Jeepers, I have created an album of pics from my front winch bumper build and rear bumper. It is not all totally completed however I think this could help some guys that are looking to do something simular.
This whole project will not be very easy, and is def time consuming, especially for someone like me that has 2 jobs and works 65+ hrs a week.
I did not add this all as open content but I did comment on all of the pictures to help guide the build.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/member...-bumper-build/
ENJOY!!
This whole project will not be very easy, and is def time consuming, especially for someone like me that has 2 jobs and works 65+ hrs a week.
I did not add this all as open content but I did comment on all of the pictures to help guide the build.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/member...-bumper-build/
ENJOY!!
#3
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
Thanks, I figured with the amount of supporting that Ive done and the brackets running all the way down the front of the unibody this thing is def strong. I also gusseted the inside of the front sections that are angled so that everything is fully strengthened. The gussets are positioned to that the center 2x2" cross bar supports them.
I would hate to see what an accident would look like with my Jeep...
I would hate to see what an accident would look like with my Jeep...
#4
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
Materials:
I used two, 6ft sections of 2"x6" rectangular tube as the main sections for the front and rear. The tubing is all 3/16" thick.
I used one, 6ft long piece of 2"x2" square tube for the end pieces, and center support for the front and as part of the rear bumper mounting system. This tube was also 3/16" thick.
The front mounting plates was a 2'x1' piece of 1/4" steel plate that I measured, drilled, and cut to run down the front of the unibody and it utilizes all of the available holes in the front section of the unibody. (7 on the passenger side and I think 9 on the driver side)
* note I am using the JCR offroad gear box mount (4 hole style)
The inner bracing of the front framerail (directly under the grill) I used a flat piece of 3/16" thick plate. I used this same plate for all the gussets, the re-welding of the lower part of the front bumper that I angle cut off, and also for parts of the rear bumper mounts.
The top parts of the front bumper that are the plates are made from 1/8" steel (to help reduce the weight)
The winch plate isn't finished yet but Im going to be cutting it down in the front (hence why the 2"x2" center bar is slightly lower than the rest of the bumper).
Also Harbor Frieght sells d-rings (10,000lb. capacity) and hitch holes.
I also still need to finish the rear corners, Im using the 1/8" steel plate for that since its slightly easier to conform.
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
I used two, 6ft sections of 2"x6" rectangular tube as the main sections for the front and rear. The tubing is all 3/16" thick.
I used one, 6ft long piece of 2"x2" square tube for the end pieces, and center support for the front and as part of the rear bumper mounting system. This tube was also 3/16" thick.
The front mounting plates was a 2'x1' piece of 1/4" steel plate that I measured, drilled, and cut to run down the front of the unibody and it utilizes all of the available holes in the front section of the unibody. (7 on the passenger side and I think 9 on the driver side)
* note I am using the JCR offroad gear box mount (4 hole style)
The inner bracing of the front framerail (directly under the grill) I used a flat piece of 3/16" thick plate. I used this same plate for all the gussets, the re-welding of the lower part of the front bumper that I angle cut off, and also for parts of the rear bumper mounts.
The top parts of the front bumper that are the plates are made from 1/8" steel (to help reduce the weight)
The winch plate isn't finished yet but Im going to be cutting it down in the front (hence why the 2"x2" center bar is slightly lower than the rest of the bumper).
Also Harbor Frieght sells d-rings (10,000lb. capacity) and hitch holes.
I also still need to finish the rear corners, Im using the 1/8" steel plate for that since its slightly easier to conform.
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
#6
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Nice design and a clever way to utilize rectangle tube tkjeeper. How much did it affect the front end's height once you bolted it in place?
#7
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Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0 H.O.
The bumper doesn't weight as much as I anticipated. I think after I angle cut the edges etc. it really helped out. I did add guessets and reboxed the front tube that I angle cut. I also used 1/8" plate for the top pieces (not the winch area) to save on weight.
If I had to take a guess I'd say it weighs probably 60-70lbs. The front didnt come down that much however I still need to finish the winch plate and install a winch....which can be very heavy!!
I also can't tell you if the ride changed because I added Bilstein 5100 shocks on the front...
I can tell you that with the JCR Brace and the way that I extended the bumper mounts down the frame makes the whole front end feel much better. Its finally some serious strength and metal up front!
If I had to take a guess I'd say it weighs probably 60-70lbs. The front didnt come down that much however I still need to finish the winch plate and install a winch....which can be very heavy!!
I also can't tell you if the ride changed because I added Bilstein 5100 shocks on the front...
I can tell you that with the JCR Brace and the way that I extended the bumper mounts down the frame makes the whole front end feel much better. Its finally some serious strength and metal up front!
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