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chevy half ton axle swap????

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Old 02-27-2011, 10:37 PM
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Default chevy half ton axle swap????

Hey guys ive been looking for axles to put underneath my 96 jeep cherokee sport to run bigger tires preferably 37's and i wanted some full width axles to widen the stance of my jeep any info on these axles or what im doing is greatly appreciated !!
Old 02-27-2011, 10:44 PM
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You will need to swap your t-case to run Chevy axles because they are passenger side drop. Fronts are 10 bolts and early ones have 44s. Rears are the somewhat rare 44, 10 and 12 bolt (those two are c-clip axles and weaker than the 44). Chevy 1/2 ton axles would be good to about a 35 anything more and you'll snap them. The rear 3/4 and 1 ton non metric corp 14 bolt is an excellent axle and good up to about 42s but hangs low and only comes in 8 lug. The six lug versions are the metric versions and use a smaller ring gear and are weaker.
Old 02-27-2011, 11:06 PM
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In all honesty, you want something heavier than 1/2 ton axles if running 37's. I was running a build Dana 44 in the rear of my old XJ on 36's and was still breaking stuff, that was with Superior axles, Currie disc brake conversion, Superior 4.56 gears, and OX locker. I will be going 37's in my Comanche and will be running a set of Ford one tons.

The other issue is how much fab work you want to do. You will need to cut the floor in order to flip the transfer case to the other side for the Chevy passenger side drop front axle. You would be better off getting Ford axles as they are a driver side drop setup like the Jeeps.
Old 02-27-2011, 11:40 PM
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d44/9'' is a good combo imo, thats my plan for my 93 xj build
Old 02-28-2011, 12:15 AM
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thanks for the info saved me money i greatly appreciate the info i think ill do the dana 44 front and ford nine inch rear everyone is doing it and working for em so thanks
Old 02-28-2011, 06:27 AM
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I currently have 2 builds going on


1 is a MJ on GM 1tons

2 is a xj on d44/9

I think by the time they are both done they will both have their place.


Check for builds A blog about my MJ Pong

Turd how to build a good one
Old 02-28-2011, 09:20 PM
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If I had it to do again, and I'm in the process of doing just that, I'd skip the front 44. I have chromos in mine and have broken them running 35s. I'm rebuilding mine to run my new 38s and I have a front 60 in the garage that will replace the 44 as soon as I get it built.
Old 03-01-2011, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by xjmarc
If I had it to do again, and I'm in the process of doing just that, I'd skip the front 44. I have chromos in mine and have broken them running 35s. I'm rebuilding mine to run my new 38s and I have a front 60 in the garage that will replace the 44 as soon as I get it built.

I have to ask whose chromo's have you broken? I know I have broken Yukon, And Alloy USa shafts with 33's

My mj Truggy will have 35 spline chromo's and 39's

MY chop top will have nitro shafts (lifetime warranty) and 36's.


Look Into the 35 spline upgrade available for the d44 while you are at it. LIL pricey.. but more ground clearance then a 60 same strength
Old 03-01-2011, 02:31 PM
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6 lug half ton axles umm lets see i broke a rear in 2 k5 blazers one on 33s one on stock 31s i borke one in 96 k1500 z71 stock i have broke front axle shafts in 10 bolts in a k10 stepside but what do i know i swapping a set in my mj along with my turboed 355
Old 03-01-2011, 05:27 PM
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They are Yukons and I already have a 79 model kingpin hp60 I'm slowly building. It's getting 35 spline inners and outers.
Old 03-04-2011, 07:03 AM
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[QUOTE="PingPong"

Look Into the 35 spline upgrade available for the d44 while you are at it. LIL pricey.. but more ground clearance then a 60 same strength[/QUOTE]

Well almost... u still got the weak Dana 30 axle joints in a Dana 44... which to me renders the 44 worthless for a front axle... since they easily brake in a 30
Old 03-04-2011, 05:19 PM
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IMO if your doing the work to swap axles run 60s or 609s or something along those lines. Like others have said 44s offer no strength difference over all from a 30 to warrant the work to put it. As its the same amount of work to put in a dana 60. And you can run pass side drop axles. Go to Novack get a adapter ring from a Dana 300s and run the 300 straight up
Old 03-05-2011, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
Well almost... u still got the weak Dana 30 axle joints in a Dana 44... which to me renders the 44 worthless for a front axle... since they easily brake in a 30

Not so with the 35 spline upgrade... they run d60 size joints The 35 spline upgrade actually uses d60 inner c's and knuckles. It bascially is like a 60 just uses a d44 size ring gear, and gives you 2 more inches of ground clearance.. which is like running a tire 4" bigger.

Also in my wheeling experience I havent broken any higher end u-joints, what I break is inner axle shafts. To date I have broken 2 short side inners (1 yukon,1alloy usa) 1 long side inner (twisted, not broken), 2 sets of lock right pins. On the alloy Usa, I was running yukon joints, and on the alloy usa I was running alloy X joints. all on 33" tires.

Most of your u-joints break come from poor driving style. By this I mean getting on it while the tires are turned, or turning while under power and binding it up.

Sure I am going to getting flamedfor this.. but it is my wheeling experience, and the research I have done.
Old 03-05-2011, 07:26 AM
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ah... thats right... thats the only way to get rid of the weaker joints if i remember right... but at the cost of mucho moneys... i forgot about that one... so then the ring gear becomes the weak point... which for most apps isnt that big of a problem i wouldnt think... as long a quality gears are used... worth the ground clearance...

i guess this is the ONLY way id run a 44... but i got to good a deal on my 60 so to late now... lol... ground clearance is suckin on it though with the design... OEM cast radius arm brackets sit almost as low as the housing...
Old 03-05-2011, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by alloutperform
d44/9'' is a good combo imo, thats my plan for my 93 xj build
Same here in my 99 build


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