xjmachine

i am looking to do SOA conversion on a wagoneer front axle and im not sure what one to use. ive been referred to a couple by people on different forums, my budget is around 500.

Here are links to the ones ive been told people have used for this type of work, i also know that to do the conversion one perch has to be partly welded on the cast diff housing. so many different opinions and im not sure. any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated



http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...OdCRoCOADw_wcB

i read that a couple of guys did their work with this welder using .035 flux core, also read that the welder for this type if work should not be less tha 130 amps?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FjshoC-enw_wcB

Rogue4x4

Check this out if you are on a budget...

http://www.eastwood.com/mig135-welder-and-cart-kit.html

I have heard good things about these units, but have never tried Eastwood. I weld for a living. I use Miller. I own Miller. Before I made my bread and butter by welding, I had a HF machine. While it worked for what I did, compared to a Miller, it is complete garbage. Hard to set up and use, just not user friendly. I work with Miller exclusively at work, we have a 251, a 252, and an old school Millermatic 200...the 200 works as good as the rest, and it's over 20 years old. We also have a Miller Bobcat gas powered welder and an older Miller arc machine. I own a Millermatic 211, got it brand new on CL for 900, with consumables, a bottle, and a welding cart. That said, check CL for deals BEFORE you buy new, you just might get a great deal.

I will say this...get the best you can afford. Do not cheap out, and you'll thank yourself later.

BTW, tombstone welders like the first one you linked to are ok...for certain things. Not that you can't use them for offroad fab (ORF), it's just the fact that for ORF, MIG is better. Flux core is ok, if you do welding outside a lot, but MIG is the hands down overall winner in ORF.

Rogue4x4

One other thing...you are dealing with suspension components here. You'll want a 220-240V machine. You also need to consider duty cycle with your purchase. If you were doing small things like sheet metal, or light duty brackets, cool, burn away...but when dealing with major structural and integral components, you need to do it the right way. If this has confused you, start googling and watching vids, and learn EVERYTHING you can, BEFORE you purchase.

Buy quality...cry once

xjmachine

thanks for the great reply. would you recommend that eastwood mig to do the conversion? the reviews seem to be pretty good. i have been researching alot for the past week. i will be mostly building bumpers and rock sliders besides the SOA.

i have been reading around about welding the perch to the cast steel diff housing and most say they do with a stick welder. and have to heat it prior to welding. not sure if i could tackle that job with the mig, or could i?. i honestly have no idea how to go about that part.

XJwonders

yes you would need to preheat AND post heat after welding. A propane torch can do the job.

Rogue4x4

What he said...and make sure it's cast steel, not cast iron. Cast iron you'll need to preheat as well, but also use the arc method with an electrode high in nickel content. Cast steel you can use MIG, but there is a method for doing that as well. Just make sure you know what you're dealing with before you start.

A couple of links

one on welding cast steel
http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...p/t-20894.html

...and one on welding cast iron
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...on-detail.aspx

xjmachine

post heat, like keep the torch on it for a lesser time? also could the mig weld that part or would i need to use a stick welder?

thanks for the info btw!

guinelle1

heat before you weld and heat after you weld. ie "pre heat" and "post heat"

the eastwood 135s are an amazing 110v machine. i own 2. lol

Rogue4x4

Pre and post heat means you need to preheat with a torch, then weld, then use the torch to post heat right after welding...to help it cool down slower. The weld arc is high heat, the torch flame less so, the idea is to prevent cracking while the weld is cooling. Again, you need to know what you're welding, cast iron or cast steel...this will determine what process to use

StuckBuck

I've heard good things about the hobart handler series. You can get the Hobart Handler 140 for around $480. Hobart is millers at home welder series. Kinda like honda to acura, but instead its hobart to miller. Ive also heard pretty good things about the eastwood series but have never tried them.

Rogue4x4

I'll agree with this, have never heard much bad about the handler series...

xjmachine

thanks guys. i really appreciate the advice. i think im going to order the eastwood mig 175 amp, its 220 v. since most everyone says that i need 220 to do suspension stuff

StuckBuck

Tell us how it turns out, I'm looking for a decent welder for my dad right now and that could be an option.

blankdeluxe

I use an eastwood 135 as well. Bang for buck, its damn hard to beat. I have the older blue box though. I'm not sure if anything has changed in the new black case. I have built my cage, tube fenders, chop top, welded in new floors, rock sliders, and a ton of other things with it and its still going strong.

xjmachine

i ordered the Eastwood 175 mig! should come in real soon! cant wait to get started