Air shocks on a xj
#47
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Location: In my garage, with my welder
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
In retrospect: After plating the majority of my project with 3/16" I would say that you could safely plate the VERTICAL faces with 1/8", saving the 3/16" for the bottoms of things that will see direct hits from the rocks.
Rear Droop: I dont really understand why you state that it will be necessary to move the axle back to gain rear droop. Could you elaborate on this?
Rear one link: if you are spending all the time/ money on the rest of this thing, PLEASE look into a simple four link. The antisquat characteristics of a one link are NOT desirable.
One more thing: check out FOA for air shocks... They offer a VERY nice parts at prices WAY below the blue or red shocks.
And Chris at FOA is a sponsor of King of the Hammers!
Rear Droop: I dont really understand why you state that it will be necessary to move the axle back to gain rear droop. Could you elaborate on this?
Rear one link: if you are spending all the time/ money on the rest of this thing, PLEASE look into a simple four link. The antisquat characteristics of a one link are NOT desirable.
One more thing: check out FOA for air shocks... They offer a VERY nice parts at prices WAY below the blue or red shocks.
And Chris at FOA is a sponsor of King of the Hammers!
#48
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Runing 35s on a 6 inch lift was a feat with the rear. There is not more room to cut cause of the wheel well, so if I move the axle back about 2 inches or so I will be able to remove the back bottom part of the fender giving me more room. That is the plan as of now but the might change as thing start moving along.
Rear link: not sure if you are on pirate but there is a guy making su links (one links). The guy has made a very nice joints. Life time warrnty comes along with it. So if the price of the joint (297 with shipping) I can do it for cheap. With anitsquat I will adjust or just change the whole thing to a 4 link if it comes down to that.
Air shock: Ballistic man.
Rear link: not sure if you are on pirate but there is a guy making su links (one links). The guy has made a very nice joints. Life time warrnty comes along with it. So if the price of the joint (297 with shipping) I can do it for cheap. With anitsquat I will adjust or just change the whole thing to a 4 link if it comes down to that.
Air shock: Ballistic man.
#51
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You are going to spend 300 bucks for a SINGLE joint?
You do realize that his one link joint is nothing more than a trailer ball with a fancy coupler, right? I'm not saying it won't work, just that I think you can do SO much better for a LITTLE more money:
Check the vendors section on Pirate, for Ruff stuff.
He's selling heims for REALLY cheap, and they are REALLY nice.
You do realize that his one link joint is nothing more than a trailer ball with a fancy coupler, right? I'm not saying it won't work, just that I think you can do SO much better for a LITTLE more money:
Check the vendors section on Pirate, for Ruff stuff.
He's selling heims for REALLY cheap, and they are REALLY nice.
#52
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I will look into that. I was going to go all ballistic for the rear and do a nice four link. Maybe I will change things arounds a little. I would like more info if you or anyone else would like to chime in.
#55
Rear Droop: I dont really understand why you state that it will be necessary to move the axle back to gain rear droop. Could you elaborate on this?
Rear one link: if you are spending all the time/ money on the rest of this thing, PLEASE look into a simple four link. The antisquat characteristics of a one link are NOT desirable.
Rear one link: if you are spending all the time/ money on the rest of this thing, PLEASE look into a simple four link. The antisquat characteristics of a one link are NOT desirable.
As far as antisquat, I know hes going to keep his CG as low as possible. With a low CG and a long SU link his % wont be to out of hand.
One joint is simple, low maintinence, and very strong. I dont think hes running in the KOH so as long as it preforms for him why try and change his mind?
Besides, if you can pull this kind of flex off and still keep it stable.... I'm in!!!
I know RTI ramps are a thing of the past but wach a few vid of this guy wheeln and you mind will be blown!
#56
wow the first couple pages of this were hard to read!
glad we all know what airshocks we are talkin about now lol.
my to hardcore?
a 44 front wont last on 38'"+ tires. and even if you got that axle for super cheap. go ahead and splurge a little on a $600 dana60. i mean airshocks and 39's frame plating,blahdeblah, might as well not worry about your rig breaking because you wanted to save a couple hundred bucks.
friend of mine also runs 38.5 sx's on a 4" lift
i have run 37's on a 3"
i dont see the need to have to go taller than 6"
i don't understand, i know of several peopel who are lower and have larger tires that don't have that issue
glad we all know what airshocks we are talkin about now lol.
Your to hard core with your AIRSHOCK build!!! Just crazy!
Going with full with axles d44 front and d60 rear (paid $100 for the set!) running 38.5" tsl, full hydro stearing, air shocks on all four corners, 3 link on the front, one link su joint on the rear. Not to sure on the ride height just yet, I had a 6 inch on it before running 35s swampers on it so I will need be bigger then that. I will have a pretty good idea of ride height and some picture up on friday night. I am going to TRY and keep this build under the 3000 mark.
friend of mine also runs 38.5 sx's on a 4" lift
i have run 37's on a 3"
i dont see the need to have to go taller than 6"
i don't understand, i know of several peopel who are lower and have larger tires that don't have that issue
#57
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Location: Cookeville, TN
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#58
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I know RTI ramps are a thing of the past but wach a few vid of this guy wheeln and you mind will be blown!