some help please

89PBR96 · 06-28-2009, 07:45 PM

got a 94 wrangler 4.0 5speed and was driving it saturday night and went to shift in 4th and lost the clutch ? pulled the slave it's still workin good pedal is still there and comes back up fork is still good i'm lost on this no signs of it goin bad just went had to start it in first and shift at good rpms to get it home from sprinfield il about a hour away from home any help i also tryied to bleed the slave agian but no help there either ?????
Thanks in advance

89PBR96 · 06-29-2009, 10:14 AM

Any idea's before i drop the trans

4.3L XJ · 06-29-2009, 10:29 AM

Check your master cylinder. It is a poor design in my opinion. It is a common failure. There is a little cup in the end that has to seal for it to develop pressure. If it doesn't, it won't work right.

89PBR96 · 06-29-2009, 11:51 AM

Are you talking about the rubber that is under the cap ? Or is there another place i should look the rubber piece looks good ?

89PBR96 · 06-29-2009, 12:07 PM

Is this what you are talking about it seems to look good any ways to test it for a problem .

4.3L XJ · 06-29-2009, 03:05 PM

It is nothing you can see. It is all internal. But usually if you loose your clutch or the pedal starts getting spongy, it is the master cylinder.

89PBR96 · 06-29-2009, 04:30 PM

K thanks i just don't want to throw money at the wrong part
I took the slave cylinder off and pushed the pedal down and the rod moves in and out with the pedal so I'm kinda lost
So is that a sign of the master cylinder being bad since it still functions?

4.3L XJ · 06-29-2009, 06:20 PM

A failing master cylinder begins to go bad by not developing high enough pressures to push the clutch enough to disengage it. Just looking at the slave cylinder operate in your hand is not definitive. What you might try is to look at the reservoir with the lid off while someone is pushing on the pedal. If you see fluid coming up through the bottom throughout the full stroke, then it is not working.

EndlessMtnFab · 06-29-2009, 07:49 PM

A 94 YJ will have an external slave assembly . That was the first year of the external slave on the XJs & YJs. The ZJs had an external slave in 1993 (FYI)

So it can be removed without dropping the trans and tested for leaves and movement (CAREFULLY).

That said .. there is a little retaining clip that holds the throwout arm down inside the bellhousing. Those are notorious for breaking. Unfortunately, the trans has to come down to repace that clip.

Not saying that is definitely your cause of failure. But it's a common one I've seen & dealt with.

Joe

89PBR96 · 06-29-2009, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ

A failing master cylinder begins to go bad by not developing high enough pressures to push the clutch enough to disengage it. Just looking at the slave cylinder operate in your hand is not definitive. What you might try is to look at the reservoir with the lid off while someone is pushing on the pedal. If you see fluid coming up through the bottom throughout the full stroke, then it is not working.

The fluid does not move at all when i pump the pedal. The only time the fluid moves is when i have the slave cylinder off and push the rod in and out buy hand when i push it all the way in the fluid is full when i let the rod out it's low

4.3L XJ · 06-30-2009, 02:14 AM

Sounds like it might be OK then, You might have to take the tranny down

89PBR96 · 06-30-2009, 08:18 AM

Thanks for your info really appreciate the help guys looks like I'll be busy this week.

89PBR96 · 07-07-2009, 09:08 PM

Yep dropped the trans and case big chunk missin off the clutch

clip was broke holden the throw out bearing on
the clip holden the fork was not hooked up
wtf

89PBR96 · 07-08-2009, 10:31 AM

4.3L XJ · 07-08-2009, 10:59 AM

OUch. What have you been doing to the old girl?

06-28-2009, 07:45 PM	#1
89PBR96 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: central IL Posts: 780 My Photos 99 Cherokee Year: 99 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: A/T Transfer Case: 231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Dana 35 Tires: 33/12.50/15 Lift Specifications: 5" Rustys with quick disconnects Misc Accessories: Cut and rolled fenders	some help please got a 94 wrangler 4.0 5speed and was driving it saturday night and went to shift in 4th and lost the clutch ? pulled the slave it's still workin good pedal is still there and comes back up fork is still good i'm lost on this no signs of it goin bad just went had to start it in first and shift at good rpms to get it home from sprinfield il about a hour away from home any help i also tryied to bleed the slave agian but no help there either ????? Thanks in advance

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06-29-2009, 10:14 AM	#2
89PBR96 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: central IL Posts: 780 My Photos 99 Cherokee Year: 99 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: A/T Transfer Case: 231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Dana 35 Tires: 33/12.50/15 Lift Specifications: 5" Rustys with quick disconnects Misc Accessories: Cut and rolled fenders	Any idea's before i drop the trans

06-29-2009, 10:29 AM	#3
4.3L XJ CF Veteran Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Chico, CA Posts: 2,143 My Photos 1986 Cherokee Year: 1986 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system Transmission: 4L60E with manual lockout. Transfer Case: Atlas 4 speed with 2.7, 3.8 and 10.38 Front Axle: D30 going to Toyota 8.25 with ARB Rear Axle: D35 going to Toyota 8.25 with ARB Tires: 31X10.50X15 going to 38s Lift Specifications: 7.5" RE coils on homegrown longarm, Tereflex high steer, bastard pack rear. Misc Accessories: Warn 9.5ti, a bag of goodies and custom onboard air	Check your master cylinder. It is a poor design in my opinion. It is a common failure. There is a little cup in the end that has to seal for it to develop pressure. If it doesn't, it won't work right.

06-29-2009, 11:51 AM	#4
89PBR96 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: central IL Posts: 780 My Photos 99 Cherokee Year: 99 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: A/T Transfer Case: 231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Dana 35 Tires: 33/12.50/15 Lift Specifications: 5" Rustys with quick disconnects Misc Accessories: Cut and rolled fenders	Are you talking about the rubber that is under the cap ? Or is there another place i should look the rubber piece looks good ?

06-29-2009, 12:07 PM	#5
89PBR96 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: central IL Posts: 780 My Photos 99 Cherokee Year: 99 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: A/T Transfer Case: 231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Dana 35 Tires: 33/12.50/15 Lift Specifications: 5" Rustys with quick disconnects Misc Accessories: Cut and rolled fenders	Is this what you are talking about it seems to look good any ways to test it for a problem .

06-29-2009, 03:05 PM	#6
4.3L XJ CF Veteran Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Chico, CA Posts: 2,143 My Photos 1986 Cherokee Year: 1986 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system Transmission: 4L60E with manual lockout. Transfer Case: Atlas 4 speed with 2.7, 3.8 and 10.38 Front Axle: D30 going to Toyota 8.25 with ARB Rear Axle: D35 going to Toyota 8.25 with ARB Tires: 31X10.50X15 going to 38s Lift Specifications: 7.5" RE coils on homegrown longarm, Tereflex high steer, bastard pack rear. Misc Accessories: Warn 9.5ti, a bag of goodies and custom onboard air	It is nothing you can see. It is all internal. But usually if you loose your clutch or the pedal starts getting spongy, it is the master cylinder.

06-29-2009, 04:30 PM	#7
89PBR96 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: central IL Posts: 780 My Photos 99 Cherokee Year: 99 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: A/T Transfer Case: 231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Dana 35 Tires: 33/12.50/15 Lift Specifications: 5" Rustys with quick disconnects Misc Accessories: Cut and rolled fenders	K thanks i just don't want to throw money at the wrong part I took the slave cylinder off and pushed the pedal down and the rod moves in and out with the pedal so I'm kinda lost So is that a sign of the master cylinder being bad since it still functions?

06-29-2009, 06:20 PM	#8
4.3L XJ CF Veteran Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Chico, CA Posts: 2,143 My Photos 1986 Cherokee Year: 1986 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system Transmission: 4L60E with manual lockout. Transfer Case: Atlas 4 speed with 2.7, 3.8 and 10.38 Front Axle: D30 going to Toyota 8.25 with ARB Rear Axle: D35 going to Toyota 8.25 with ARB Tires: 31X10.50X15 going to 38s Lift Specifications: 7.5" RE coils on homegrown longarm, Tereflex high steer, bastard pack rear. Misc Accessories: Warn 9.5ti, a bag of goodies and custom onboard air	A failing master cylinder begins to go bad by not developing high enough pressures to push the clutch enough to disengage it. Just looking at the slave cylinder operate in your hand is not definitive. What you might try is to look at the reservoir with the lid off while someone is pushing on the pedal. If you see fluid coming up through the bottom throughout the full stroke, then it is not working.

06-29-2009, 07:49 PM	#9
EndlessMtnFab Cherokee Forum Vendor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Blakeslee, PA Posts: 710 My Photos 97 Cherokee Year: 97 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.7 Transmission: AX-15 Transfer Case: NP203, D300 Front Axle: Hybrid HP 30 Rear Axle: Full Floating D44 Tires: 285/75/16 ProComp Xtreme MT Lift Specifications: Homebrew -- just ask Misc Accessories: too many to list	A 94 YJ will have an external slave assembly . That was the first year of the external slave on the XJs & YJs. The ZJs had an external slave in 1993 (FYI) So it can be removed without dropping the trans and tested for leaves and movement (CAREFULLY). That said .. there is a little retaining clip that holds the throwout arm down inside the bellhousing. Those are notorious for breaking. Unfortunately, the trans has to come down to repace that clip. Not saying that is definitely your cause of failure. But it's a common one I've seen & dealt with. Joe

06-30-2009, 02:14 AM	#11
4.3L XJ CF Veteran Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Chico, CA Posts: 2,143 My Photos 1986 Cherokee Year: 1986 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system Transmission: 4L60E with manual lockout. Transfer Case: Atlas 4 speed with 2.7, 3.8 and 10.38 Front Axle: D30 going to Toyota 8.25 with ARB Rear Axle: D35 going to Toyota 8.25 with ARB Tires: 31X10.50X15 going to 38s Lift Specifications: 7.5" RE coils on homegrown longarm, Tereflex high steer, bastard pack rear. Misc Accessories: Warn 9.5ti, a bag of goodies and custom onboard air	Sounds like it might be OK then, You might have to take the tranny down

06-30-2009, 08:18 AM	#12
89PBR96 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: central IL Posts: 780 My Photos 99 Cherokee Year: 99 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: A/T Transfer Case: 231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Dana 35 Tires: 33/12.50/15 Lift Specifications: 5" Rustys with quick disconnects Misc Accessories: Cut and rolled fenders	Thanks for your info really appreciate the help guys looks like I'll be busy this week.

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07-07-2009, 09:08 PM	#13
89PBR96 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: central IL Posts: 780 My Photos 99 Cherokee Year: 99 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: A/T Transfer Case: 231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Dana 35 Tires: 33/12.50/15 Lift Specifications: 5" Rustys with quick disconnects Misc Accessories: Cut and rolled fenders	Yep dropped the trans and case big chunk missin off the clutch clip was broke holden the throw out bearing on the clip holden the fork was not hooked up wtf

07-08-2009, 10:31 AM	#14
89PBR96 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: central IL Posts: 780 My Photos 99 Cherokee Year: 99 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: A/T Transfer Case: 231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Dana 35 Tires: 33/12.50/15 Lift Specifications: 5" Rustys with quick disconnects Misc Accessories: Cut and rolled fenders

07-08-2009, 10:59 AM	#15
4.3L XJ CF Veteran Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Chico, CA Posts: 2,143 My Photos 1986 Cherokee Year: 1986 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system Transmission: 4L60E with manual lockout. Transfer Case: Atlas 4 speed with 2.7, 3.8 and 10.38 Front Axle: D30 going to Toyota 8.25 with ARB Rear Axle: D35 going to Toyota 8.25 with ARB Tires: 31X10.50X15 going to 38s Lift Specifications: 7.5" RE coils on homegrown longarm, Tereflex high steer, bastard pack rear. Misc Accessories: Warn 9.5ti, a bag of goodies and custom onboard air	OUch. What have you been doing to the old girl?