- If any o-rings are still inside the holes in the head, use the screwdriver to carefully extract them. Inspect the openings to make sure all the o-rings are out, and there isn't a lot of crud in there. In my case, there was 244,ooo miles of crud in there, and i wasn't comfortable leaving it in there to gunk up my new injectors.
A WORD OF CAUTION:
If you choose to do this like I did, my must be EXTREMELY careful not to allow any crud to fall through the hole into the cylinders. This would be very bad. I used my small flat blade screwdriver one careful scrape at a time (READ: SCRAPE INSIDE TO OUT), cleaning off the screwdriver head after every scrape. Again, not a required step, but one you may wish to take if you are comfortable with it.
Cruddy hole vs cleaned out hole:
- Remove the old injectors from the fuel rail. There are metal "clip-nuts" that slide off the injector body where they attach to the rail. Use the flat blade screwdriver to pry them off. Make sure your new injectors came with new clip nuts before throwing these away, otherwise you will reuse them. Pull out each injector. Pry out the o-rings that will inevitably be still lodged in the rail.
- Grab your new injectors. The ones I am installing are Neon "703" injectors that I cleaned and rebuilt with new filters, o-rings, and pintle caps. They have about the same flow rate as the stock injectors, but instead of the one outlet hole, they have 4. This gives a better spray rather than a stream of fuel for a better atomization and burn.
Stock injector Left, New 4 hole right
- Time to lube up! Grab your petroleum jelly, and lube up each o-ring, being careful to keep it away from the pintle holes.
- Push each fuel injector into the rail, making sure to push straight, wiggle a bit if you need to but KEEP THEM STRAIGHT. After they are all seated fully, make sure they are rotated the correct way install the clip nuts.
They should look like this: