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Lift Specifications: 4.5" RC full leafs w/ 1" shackles and spacers
Misc Accessories: No cat w/ Flowmaster, Custom Intake
Fuel pump replacement.
Thank god that jeep made the Cherokee with theFuel sender on the side of the fuel tank makes this job alot less time consuming.
Start with the good old Jack and If you're lifted high enough, you can do this with the tires on the ground... just be sure to set your parking brake before crawling underneath. Drain your gas tank as dry as possible. Siphoning with a hose is a good way to get sicker than a dog so get a siphon pump and a gas can! Several gas cans are handy if you don't have another vehicle to pour the gas into and you have a full tank. Gas level needs to be well below the fuel pump portal in the tank.
Hers is what she looks like
Here's a view with all fuel pump hoses removed and the ring cleaned up. You can see the twist lock ring that retains the pump underneath the tank mounted ring and around the center disc with the wiring and fuel line. You remove this ring using a flat brass punch and firmly striking it with a plastic covered hammer, knocking it counter clockwise.
After you get the ring loose, CAREFULLY remove the pump from the tank.
Try not to hit the tank float against anythingor you will damage the sending unit and have a fuel gauge that misreads! Also, there is a rubber 'foot' that holds the pump in place in the tank. This 'foot' goes onto the bottom of the pump assembly and can fall into the tank if you're not careful! If you're lucky and extremely careful, you won't have to drop the tank down and go fishin'. Which is what makes it easy in the fist place
here it is out and ready for the switch.
The large o-ring (hanging loose) is the tank sealing ring that goes under the lock ring. Check this for damage and if it's ok you should be able to reuse it. Shown at the bottom with the float is the inlet sock filter which keeps the 'big chunks' out of the gas before it flows to your fuel filter. Replace this filter when you replace your pump! Note that there are two wires going to your pump and that they should have different sized terminals to prevent miswiring. Sketch these on a piece of paper and note which one is + positive and which one is - negative and tag the + positive lead with a wire tie to help your memory if necessary. Disassembly is an easy process at this point... , remove the fuel inlet 'sock' filter, unhook the wires, remove the nut & lock washer then lift the pump from the pump mount. Note that there are two rubber vibration isolators; one at each end of the pump. Your replacement should have these in addition to any needed adapter sleeve.
Make sure your new pump looks like the old pump or comes with the adapter sleeve are else you will be making another trip to theparts place here is how it should be
The Auto Zone pump also had adapters for hooking up the wires... BE SURE TO USE THEM IF INCLUDED! They keep you from having to splice wires making hook up a 'plug & play' operation. Just be sure that the wires are securely isolated and that they will NOT contact any other surface! Do NOT overtighten these brass nuts! (The terminals are VERY fragile!) The Auto Zone kit's adapter surrounded the terminals pretty well, but care was still needed to make sure everything was seated right. Reassembly is pretty straight forward once you get the pump remounted on the tank mount. The hardest part was figuring out how the adapter fits onto the pump along with the isolators but that was actually pretty simple. Snug down the nut with lock washer to hold everything in place and make sure your hoses and wires are reconnected from the pump to the top of the pump mount.Put the inlet 'sock' filter and rubber 'foot' back on and prepare for re installation.Hold that o-ring up near the tank port area of the pump mount during installation and BE CAREFUL WITH THE PUMP ASSEMBLY! Gently install the pump back into the tank being sure to keep that stupid foot in place. Don't worry, it'll pretty much go right into place on the bottom of the tank if you're careful. Holding the mount in place, reinstall the locking ring. Be careful with the o ring! I used a bit of grease on mine to keep from twisting it under the lock ring, but that's not really necessary if you're careful. Make sure it's seated properly and that the locking ring is fully clockwise against the stops. Reconnect fuel pump wire harness and hoses, checking for dry rotted hoses and bad clamps. Replace as needed. Zip tie wire harness and hoses in place as needed.Reconnect the battery and turn ignition switch to 'run' position. You should hear your fuel pump crank up long enough to build pressure then pump should shut off. Check for leaks. Start it up & check for leaks again.Clean up yer mess!