Is it worth it
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Is it worth it
I have a 98 Cherokee Laredo in descent shape but the transmission is starting to take its sweet time to shift. It doesn't slip but may go to 3000+ before it shifts. I've changed the filter, fluid, etc and not much help. It has 198000 miles on it.
Do you all think it's worth sticking 1000 bucks into a rebuilt transmission. I found one that is plug and play for 1k with 24 month warranty.
Are they hard to change? It's a 4.0 with 4x4 auto and manual transfer case.
Do you all think it's worth sticking 1000 bucks into a rebuilt transmission. I found one that is plug and play for 1k with 24 month warranty.
Are they hard to change? It's a 4.0 with 4x4 auto and manual transfer case.
Last edited by bigwave; 11-06-2014 at 11:54 AM. Reason: missed some info
#2
Old fart with a wrench
JMHO, but as long as the body is in good shape, the answer is yes. I would, however, investigate all the possible causes of your shift problem before actually condemning the trans. Check your TV cable for proper adjustment. It is quite tired with the mileage you've got on it and it must have had some TLC in it's life.
The 4.0 is just about bullet-proof. The major problems with it are cracked pistons and head gasket leaks or internal head cracks, both of which are curable if caught early.
When you say "manual 4wd", I'm assuming you mean the 242 t/case? Again IMHO, the best one available in the ZJ. Running in 2wd most of the time puts a lot of wear on the D35 rear diff, so check out your gear wear pattern and bearing health. It's not a bad axle, but it's pulling a lot of weight for it's size.
'98 was the last year for the ZJ and I liked them better than the WJ I now own. It's a lot more hardy than the WJ and more things can be done to it. My '97 had too many hard miles on it and needed many internal hard parts which cost me $3000 to fix. I'd have been better off with a rebuilt one than trying to fix mine. Water under the bridge.
The 4.0 is just about bullet-proof. The major problems with it are cracked pistons and head gasket leaks or internal head cracks, both of which are curable if caught early.
When you say "manual 4wd", I'm assuming you mean the 242 t/case? Again IMHO, the best one available in the ZJ. Running in 2wd most of the time puts a lot of wear on the D35 rear diff, so check out your gear wear pattern and bearing health. It's not a bad axle, but it's pulling a lot of weight for it's size.
'98 was the last year for the ZJ and I liked them better than the WJ I now own. It's a lot more hardy than the WJ and more things can be done to it. My '97 had too many hard miles on it and needed many internal hard parts which cost me $3000 to fix. I'd have been better off with a rebuilt one than trying to fix mine. Water under the bridge.
#3
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 straight 6
I would ask how handy you are with a wrench? Rebuilding a transmission is not as hard as it is seems. But if this is beyond your capabilities then maybe I would suggest taking yours out and having it rebuilt. $1000 sounds high to me but it has been many years since Ive had a transmission rebuilt. My thinking is that if you take yours out and put it back in then the labor cost should be lower.
#4
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
A grand sounds high to you? The average cost of a transmission rebuild is about $2500.00. I think the original posters problem is the TV cable needing adjustment.
#5
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Year: 89XJ,98ZJ,72K10, 06 Tundra..
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
RockAuto has em for a good price...and guarantee
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#8
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
TV cable adjustment..... humm
I have tried just about everything else and as I said it seem to help some but not completely and when the vehicle is cold it's worse. I will try the adjustment and see what happens. As I said it does not seem to slip, it's a shifting issue.
As for being handy, I am pretty handy, I do most of my own mechanical work until I run into specialized tools I do not have. I do well at reading and following tech manuals and have the "tinker nack". But, I'm no full blown mechanic.
As for being handy, I am pretty handy, I do most of my own mechanical work until I run into specialized tools I do not have. I do well at reading and following tech manuals and have the "tinker nack". But, I'm no full blown mechanic.
Last edited by bigwave; 11-07-2014 at 09:18 AM.
#9
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Pretty good shape
She's in pretty good shape, it's been a challenge figuring out some of the issues. So far I've fixed: The door lights not shutting off issue, Alarm not working, AC, Vent controls, a few water leaks, Blinkers having a mind of their own, Water pump, thermostat, trany output seal, T Case input seal leaking, rear hatch and window, programed 2 new key Fobs, HVAC motor not working then working and not shutting off, a few melted electrical wires here and there, a few cosmetic rust spots..... etc. etc. The list goes on, the electrical stuff is always a challenge and requires patience and time.
The engine on this jeep is very clean in appearance and the frame / unibody is nearly rust free, which brings me to the do I fix question. As of right now I have about 2600 bucks in it, total and my son drives it 70 miles a day to college and back.
The engine on this jeep is very clean in appearance and the frame / unibody is nearly rust free, which brings me to the do I fix question. As of right now I have about 2600 bucks in it, total and my son drives it 70 miles a day to college and back.
JMHO, but as long as the body is in good
'98 was the last year for the ZJ and I liked them better than the WJ I now own. It's a lot more hardy than the WJ and more things can be done to it. My '97 had too many hard miles on it and needed many internal hard parts which cost me $3000 to fix. I'd have been better off with a rebuilt one than trying to fix mine. Water under the bridge.
'98 was the last year for the ZJ and I liked them better than the WJ I now own. It's a lot more hardy than the WJ and more things can be done to it. My '97 had too many hard miles on it and needed many internal hard parts which cost me $3000 to fix. I'd have been better off with a rebuilt one than trying to fix mine. Water under the bridge.
#10
Old fart with a wrench
What put the final death nail in my ZJ was the rear control arms breaking out of the "frame" because of rust. If it wasn't that, I would have kept it after all the money I'd put in it. I live in the "rust belt" where we use salt on the roads.
I went looking for another ZJ to replace it but couldn't find one in much better shape until I found this 00 WJ from southwestern PA. She didn't have a single spot of rust on her anywhere and had good maintenance records. It was a done deal that day. She cost me $4600 with tax, tags, and title included. I've had it 3 years and all I've had to fix were brakes and wheel bearings. Normal things with 160K on her.
I went looking for another ZJ to replace it but couldn't find one in much better shape until I found this 00 WJ from southwestern PA. She didn't have a single spot of rust on her anywhere and had good maintenance records. It was a done deal that day. She cost me $4600 with tax, tags, and title included. I've had it 3 years and all I've had to fix were brakes and wheel bearings. Normal things with 160K on her.
#11
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
condition
I too am in the rust belt, central Illinois,90 miles east of St. Louis. I picked this jeep up from south Florida while on vacation and pulled back with a uhall. Paid 1800 for it, took for a test drive and it ran pretty well and I figured I'D have to stick 500-1200 bucks in it. Bought if for my 16yo to drive. Other than one rocker panel having some rust it looks really good. The underside is nearly spotless and rust free. No rips on the inside, had new tires. Looked at it and bought in the parking lot of a Bass Pro in Ft.Myers FL. It has the t-case with the 2wd, part time 4wd, 4 high and 4 low, which from my research is one of the better ones. I have an 04 rubicon that's a tank and in nearly perfect shape, that is my fun vehicle. It's got 33 tires, 4" lift, adjustable shocks, d44 axles, factory lockers, the same t-case in it that dodge put in diesel trucks for a while. with all that it runs as smooth down the interstate at 75 as any car, it was all done right and with best quality parts / installs.
Anywho thanks for the help, I adjusted the TV cable last night and we will see haw she acts. Thanks for the help and I'll be back soon. I still have many small issues with this dude I'm continuing to work on and doing all myself. Forcing my 16 yo to help and maybe learn something
[QUOTE=dave1123;2969629]What put the final death nail in my ZJ was the rear control arms breaking out of the "frame" because of rust. If it wasn't that, I would have kept it after all the money I'd put in it. I live in the "rust belt" where we use salt on the roads.
Anywho thanks for the help, I adjusted the TV cable last night and we will see haw she acts. Thanks for the help and I'll be back soon. I still have many small issues with this dude I'm continuing to work on and doing all myself. Forcing my 16 yo to help and maybe learn something
[QUOTE=dave1123;2969629]What put the final death nail in my ZJ was the rear control arms breaking out of the "frame" because of rust. If it wasn't that, I would have kept it after all the money I'd put in it. I live in the "rust belt" where we use salt on the roads.
#12
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
More Help
Weather has got colder and now the transmission is starting to slip. The engine will rev and transmission appearing to not be engaged. When engaged it is solid and does not do all the time but getting worse. What you all think? Time to look for new tranny?
#13
#14
Old fart with a wrench
It sounds like the clutch o-ring seals are hard and leaking pressure. If you rebuild it now, you can save burning the clutches and sending all that debris thru the system.
#15
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Yah
The one quote I've got so far was 2200, that's 500 more than I paid for the thing. I'm not sure what to do with it. Can you or someone tell me exactly what I need to look for in a transmission? I see many listed around but I'm not sure they fit the 98. It's a 42re.
The build sheet says: "4-spd. Automatic 42re transmission, Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD system" .
I am extremely handy but I do not think I can rebuild a transmission.
The build sheet says: "4-spd. Automatic 42re transmission, Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD system" .
I am extremely handy but I do not think I can rebuild a transmission.
Last edited by bigwave; 11-18-2014 at 08:05 AM.