WJ to ZJ front Brake Swap
#1
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
WJ to ZJ front Brake Swap
I'm planning on swapping the front rotors and calipers from a WJ to the front of my ZJ. It should be a pretty easy swap, but my question is will my 15" wheels still fit with the larger WJ rotors and calipers? Anybody done this swap?
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L
I had planned on doing this swap before I acquired a "big boy" set of axles. What wheels are you running? The stuff I have read on the internetz says a set of 3.75-4" BS 15" rim will clear, the deeper stock rims won't without some pretty hefty grinding on the calipers.
Make sure you get the Akebono calipers if you're doing the swap, the Teves calipers ended up being recalled by Jeep.
Make sure you get the Akebono calipers if you're doing the swap, the Teves calipers ended up being recalled by Jeep.
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Ughhhhh, yeah. I'll just post this here for you, it's one of the most complete swap threads there is.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=489905
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=489905
#7
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Year: 96 Limited ZJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 w/mods
The parts you need:
99-04 WJ knuckles (JY-$40)
99-04 WJ calipers (JY- $40)
99-04 WJ ball joints (alljeeps.com- $72)
99-04 WJ brake pads (autozone- $50)
99-04 WJ rotors (autozone- $70)
91 XJ hub bearings (autozone- $150)
Re-drill rotors to 5x4.5 (Machine work- $75)
This is just like changing ball joints.
Step 1- Remove everything down to the ball joints.
Step 2- Install new WJ ball joints, the uppers are the same but the lowers have a different taper.
Step 3- Install WJ knuckles. Tq upper castle nut to 75 ft lbs and lower to 80 ft lbs.
Step 4- You might have to swap studs from the 98 hubs to the 91 hubs due to knurl poking through hub. (all depends on the size stud hole on the rotor)
Step 5- Install 91 XJ hubs onto the WJ knuckles. Make sure you use a 13mm 12 point and Tq to 75 ft lbs.
Step 6- You can reuse your stock brake line, but you have to grind off the the tab on the back of the new caliper (not sure if you have do this with the Tevis calipers) The reason is b/c the tab will make the line point down and cause the line to rub on the wheel on turns. YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE THE LINE IS GOING UP!
Step 7- Install the rotor and calipers, make sure to put some blue loc-tite on the caliper bolts that attach them to the knuckles!
Step 8- Install the brake line, PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU CHECK STEP 6 AND THAT YOU HAVE NO BRAKE LINE INTERFERENCE!!!
Step 9- Re-attach all steering components, your toe is going to be way off. The stock/lowered V8 ZJ's have plenty of thread left to adjust the toe to specs. You will need to set as close as possible then take to a shop to have done, unless you have the know-how to do at home.
Step 10- Bleed brakes.
Step 11- Break in your new brakes and enjoy.
The only thing that I have not got worked out yet is the ABS. The sensor is smaller on the WJ's.
So there you have a "big brake" upgrade kit for around $500
99-04 WJ knuckles (JY-$40)
99-04 WJ calipers (JY- $40)
99-04 WJ ball joints (alljeeps.com- $72)
99-04 WJ brake pads (autozone- $50)
99-04 WJ rotors (autozone- $70)
91 XJ hub bearings (autozone- $150)
Re-drill rotors to 5x4.5 (Machine work- $75)
This is just like changing ball joints.
Step 1- Remove everything down to the ball joints.
Step 2- Install new WJ ball joints, the uppers are the same but the lowers have a different taper.
Step 3- Install WJ knuckles. Tq upper castle nut to 75 ft lbs and lower to 80 ft lbs.
Step 4- You might have to swap studs from the 98 hubs to the 91 hubs due to knurl poking through hub. (all depends on the size stud hole on the rotor)
Step 5- Install 91 XJ hubs onto the WJ knuckles. Make sure you use a 13mm 12 point and Tq to 75 ft lbs.
Step 6- You can reuse your stock brake line, but you have to grind off the the tab on the back of the new caliper (not sure if you have do this with the Tevis calipers) The reason is b/c the tab will make the line point down and cause the line to rub on the wheel on turns. YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE THE LINE IS GOING UP!
Step 7- Install the rotor and calipers, make sure to put some blue loc-tite on the caliper bolts that attach them to the knuckles!
Step 8- Install the brake line, PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU CHECK STEP 6 AND THAT YOU HAVE NO BRAKE LINE INTERFERENCE!!!
Step 9- Re-attach all steering components, your toe is going to be way off. The stock/lowered V8 ZJ's have plenty of thread left to adjust the toe to specs. You will need to set as close as possible then take to a shop to have done, unless you have the know-how to do at home.
Step 10- Bleed brakes.
Step 11- Break in your new brakes and enjoy.
The only thing that I have not got worked out yet is the ABS. The sensor is smaller on the WJ's.
So there you have a "big brake" upgrade kit for around $500
Last edited by country_boy454; 03-18-2012 at 03:22 PM.
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#8
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Year: 1995
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Well maybe I'll start sourcing the parts and when my tires that I have now finally wear out I'll upgrade to some 16" wheels and do the swap then. Thanks for all of the info guys!
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter
Why exactly 91 hubs? Im thinking about doing this swap and I have a 96 xj, Will my hubs work? I was reading that 2000+ hubs were needed.
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Year: 1996
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Oh and 15" wheels will fit, I was at my local junkyard and took a stock 15x7 Cherokee wheel and it fit except the lugs of course.
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
If you have 15" alloy wheels they are going to be a very tight fit even with spacers/adapters. I had some 1.25" spacers made 5x5 hub to 5x4.5 wheel and tried to use wheels from a ZJ on my WJ. Plenty of room on the inside of the wheel for the caliper but scraped slightly on the backside of the wheel and caliper. Steel wheels have more room as they are thinner at the bead. My BS with the spacers was 3.75. If the WJ hubs will work I would wait and just move to 5x5 bolt pattern then grab wheels from Craigslist. Look for wj, wk, jk, and xk wheels they are all 5x5. Or just get 15" d-window or soft 8 steelies made by crager or unique either 5x4.5 and 5x5 have the correct back spacing needed to clear the caliper. You may still need to grind down the outside of the caliper though so it won't contact the wheel inside drop. The reason I would stick to 15" is the tires are cheaper when you go bigger
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