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Old 03-07-2010, 10:54 PM   #1
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Question why does my jeep roll in park?

hello, i just got my first jeep! its a 95 orvis edition with the 5.2 v8. It has a few issues i need to get fixed so im hoping a new member can get some answers here. First and biggest issue it the fact that the front left cv axle is totally broken in half so the 4x4 dosent work and the joint makes noise, but thats an easy fix, the bigger issue is the thing rolls in parking gear...what would cause this? the thing runs and shifts perfect! it had a brand new OEM tranny put in 2 years ago so its just hard for me to beleave the tranny is broken already..could the linkage be out of adjustment? or could that broken axle cause the park not to engage and keep it from rolling? the previous owner said the park stopped working rite around the time the axle broke or maybe even at the exact time..they dont remember... im kind of lost when it comes to jeeps, this is my first so any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:07 PM   #2
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By front left cv axle are you refering to the front drive shaft? Also dose it have the NV249 (full time 4wd).
If so it is the drive shaft that is causing it to roll in park. My wifes 95 had the same poroblem I got a new shaft that gets rid of the cv joint and puts a regular ujoint in its place. I would strongly suggest you get one that replaces the cv. They brake way to easy I broke 2.
Hope that helps
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:19 PM   #3
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Even having a broke axle shaft with a full time t-case will let it roll. The t-case in hi doesn't have a 50/50 split so having a broke shaft lets it think it isn't rolling because the front carrier isn't moving due to how the spiders work in an open diff. For a quick fix put it in 4lo when you park and it shouldn't roll. CV axles sell for 50 bucks new and only take an hour or so to swap out and will solve your problem.
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Axles, bit of lift and tars, what else do you need

What I lack in technique I make up for with skinny pedal.

RE short arms with drop brackets, 6" Rusty's TJ coils, RE 4.5" leaves, HD Offroad shackle relos, 2" shackle, D44 with chromos and a Spartan (welded), D60 Hobart locked with chromos, 38" TSL Bias on Eaton Beadlocks front and DIY beadlocks rear, partial cage, lots of rock love and a Warn for when I thought I could but was wrong.
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjmarc View Post
Even having a broke axle shaft with a full time t-case will let it roll. The t-case in hi doesn't have a 50/50 split so having a broke shaft lets it think it isn't rolling because the front carrier isn't moving due to how the spiders work in an open diff. For a quick fix put it in 4lo when you park and it shouldn't roll. CV axles sell for 50 bucks new and only take an hour or so to swap out and will solve your problem.
X2.
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:59 PM   #5
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wow holy **** guys thanks for the super fast responses! and its just what i wanted to hear too!! i was thinking that the park not working was related. yes this has the np 249 transfer case i think the nv came in 96 but i may have that backwards.. so i called the local parts store and they want $61 a piece for the axles or cv joints or whatever they are called, its the thing with the rubber boot on the end, my drivers side one is totaly severed! haha so im going to replace both of them. the guy at the auto parts store showed me the passenger side shaft and it was crazy long! it looks like the passenger side is super long and goes the whole way through to the center of the pumpkin but then the drivers side is just a little short one..are these correct? Also would you guys feel ok using an aftermarket brand new shafts or should i use OEM? and whats this about a kind with a u-joint?
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:05 AM   #6
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Aftermarket should be fine. Jeep used 2 kinds of axles in the front Dana 30. CV which you have and u-joint. You won't find the u-joint shafts at a parts store and aftermarket are usually chromolly and cost $600 and up. The u-joint type are serviceable and the CV are disposable. Most people say the CVs are junk but if you keep them greased and good boots on them to keep dirt, water and other junk out they are plenty strong and will last forever.
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Axles, bit of lift and tars, what else do you need

What I lack in technique I make up for with skinny pedal.

RE short arms with drop brackets, 6" Rusty's TJ coils, RE 4.5" leaves, HD Offroad shackle relos, 2" shackle, D44 with chromos and a Spartan (welded), D60 Hobart locked with chromos, 38" TSL Bias on Eaton Beadlocks front and DIY beadlocks rear, partial cage, lots of rock love and a Warn for when I thought I could but was wrong.
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:19 AM   #7
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Yes, one axleshaft is longer than the other because the differential is offset to the drivers side.

You could swap out the CV jointed axleshafts for regular ujoint shafts from a junkyard or someone parting a Jeep.

I never knew a broken joint/cv would allow a rig to roll in park.. you guys sure about that? Or am i reading it wrong?
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:38 AM   #8
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yeah i think ill just stick with the cv joint type for now..i mean the one that just broke is original to the jeep and it has almost 200k on the clock..so if the aftermarkets are as good as the originals i should never have to replace them again after this..are they easy to replace? do the hubs unbolt from the back on these or is the hub pressed into the spindle? can someone link me to an online 95 grand cherokee factory service manual? if there is one available. thanks
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:14 AM   #9
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there is a junk 90's wrangler sitting at my work, are you saying that should have the axle with the u joint correct? so do u guys think i should go get that for free and just throw it on or should i just buy those aftermarket new ones?
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:13 PM   #10
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Just wondering but what is the build date on your 95? My wifes has the 249 with the u-joint axle shafts.
I cant say for sure but the only problem that I for see with the wrangler shafts is that the wrangler probably has CAD disconnect. Basically the pass side shaft is spilt in 2. You would have to find axles out of another AWD axle.
Some one else on here might know for sure.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:39 PM   #11
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You will need one out of a 97 up wrangler and one with ABS or you will have problems with the ABS pulsing above 25 mph. Also the YJs have the less desirable smaller u-joint verses the newer larger dana 44 size that came in 97 and up and 96 and up XJs and all ZJs without CVs.
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Axles, bit of lift and tars, what else do you need

What I lack in technique I make up for with skinny pedal.

RE short arms with drop brackets, 6" Rusty's TJ coils, RE 4.5" leaves, HD Offroad shackle relos, 2" shackle, D44 with chromos and a Spartan (welded), D60 Hobart locked with chromos, 38" TSL Bias on Eaton Beadlocks front and DIY beadlocks rear, partial cage, lots of rock love and a Warn for when I thought I could but was wrong.
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