Thoughts on mixing oil viscocities?
#32
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#33
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Wait are we still having this conversation. How didn't I unsubscribe yet. Use a stock filter. Not sure why there's a debate about this at all. Have a nice day.
#34
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#35
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Use which ever filter you want everyone, and fill to the frickin Full line........
#37
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Let me further muddy the waters, once upon a time (6 mos ago) we got in multiple 5 qt bottles that were leaking. All of it name brand, all conventional. I called my boss, told him about it and offer 50% for each bottle. He told me sure.
Grabbed an empty 5 gallon Dex VI bucket, empty 5 of the 5 qt bottles into it without cleaning it out. I have a 5 gallon bucket of 9.5W32.75 for next to nothing. I dont know what the exact weight is, and dont care. Slightly tinted red because of the Dex, and the Green Goblin runs like a champ!
Longer filters, allow slower movement of the oil. Offset this fact by a better filtering media and you have a winner. With that said, there is NO guarantee the media is finer or better or thicker. You pays your money, you takes your chances.
Ron
Grabbed an empty 5 gallon Dex VI bucket, empty 5 of the 5 qt bottles into it without cleaning it out. I have a 5 gallon bucket of 9.5W32.75 for next to nothing. I dont know what the exact weight is, and dont care. Slightly tinted red because of the Dex, and the Green Goblin runs like a champ!
Longer filters, allow slower movement of the oil. Offset this fact by a better filtering media and you have a winner. With that said, there is NO guarantee the media is finer or better or thicker. You pays your money, you takes your chances.
Ron
#38
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As for the first question, for winter you should run 5w30. However I don't understand the rest of this thread.
The dip stick measures the oil level in the sump. That is, where it sits in relation to the oil pump pickup, the block, and the piston skirts; and how much the crank has to cut through on rotation.
Too little oil and you starve the pump and lose cooling.
Too much oil and you burn off excess and get foaming.
Fill the crankcase to the line on the dipstick. Period. There is no math or dowsing rods necessary.
The dip stick measures the oil level in the sump. That is, where it sits in relation to the oil pump pickup, the block, and the piston skirts; and how much the crank has to cut through on rotation.
Too little oil and you starve the pump and lose cooling.
Too much oil and you burn off excess and get foaming.
Fill the crankcase to the line on the dipstick. Period. There is no math or dowsing rods necessary.
#39
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That little hash mark on that metal stick has SO MUCH power. Kinda scary, ain't it?
#40
Old fart with a wrench
I love that quote "a larger filter allows for slower movement of the oil". What a bunch of crap! Flow is whatever the pump and bearings will allow.
AFAIK, engine oil filters are only 5 micron, anything smaller gets plugged too quickly. Transmission filters SHOULD be 2 micron or smaller, but IDK what they are in fact.
I've worked with hydraulic servo systems a lot and clean oil is a must when it comes to spool clearances of .0002". When we had problems with sticking servos, often changing to 1 micron filters eliminated the problems.
AFAIK, engine oil filters are only 5 micron, anything smaller gets plugged too quickly. Transmission filters SHOULD be 2 micron or smaller, but IDK what they are in fact.
I've worked with hydraulic servo systems a lot and clean oil is a must when it comes to spool clearances of .0002". When we had problems with sticking servos, often changing to 1 micron filters eliminated the problems.
#41
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I love that quote "a larger filter allows for slower movement of the oil". What a bunch of crap! Flow is whatever the pump and bearings will allow.
AFAIK, engine oil filters are only 5 micron, anything smaller gets plugged too quickly. Transmission filters SHOULD be 2 micron or smaller, but IDK what they are in fact.
I've worked with hydraulic servo systems a lot and clean oil is a must when it comes to spool clearances of .0002". When we had problems with sticking servos, often changing to 1 micron filters eliminated the problems.
AFAIK, engine oil filters are only 5 micron, anything smaller gets plugged too quickly. Transmission filters SHOULD be 2 micron or smaller, but IDK what they are in fact.
I've worked with hydraulic servo systems a lot and clean oil is a must when it comes to spool clearances of .0002". When we had problems with sticking servos, often changing to 1 micron filters eliminated the problems.
Don't clutter up these threads with facts and personal experience!!
#42
Member
Hi all,
I'm interested in anyone's thoughts on mixing oil weights. Specifically, 5W and 10W-30. Running 5W-30 Mobil 1 now going into the winter, but I know the engine calls for 10W-30. 157K, no leaks, doesn't burn a drop. All suggestions welcome.
PS: Calls for 6 quarts, but the dipstick reads high (over the safe mark currently, what gives?)
I'm interested in anyone's thoughts on mixing oil weights. Specifically, 5W and 10W-30. Running 5W-30 Mobil 1 now going into the winter, but I know the engine calls for 10W-30. 157K, no leaks, doesn't burn a drop. All suggestions welcome.
PS: Calls for 6 quarts, but the dipstick reads high (over the safe mark currently, what gives?)
#43
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Waaaaaaaaay higher than that, on both counts. A very expensive engine oil filter will get you 5 microns nominal, 20 absolute (eg. Baldwin B7311-MPG glass media). Filters like the beloved WIX 51515 cellulose filter work at about 21 microns nominal; absolute figures aren't available, but probably in the 40-45 range.
#44
Old fart with a wrench
Okay salad, I guess I shouldn't shoot off my mouth before actually researching engine oil filter specs. As I've said, most of my experience is with hydraulic servo systems and anything larger than 5 micron is like using cheesecloth. Some of the equipment I worked on have a filter back-pressure warning light. These were industrial milling machines.
Last edited by dave1123; 09-20-2014 at 06:58 PM.