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Old 06-21-2010, 11:55 AM   #1
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Default Removing my 4.0 L

I am removing my 4.0, i6 engine from my jeep grand cherokee. I am really close but what I cant figure out is how to detatch the engine from the transmision. All of the bolts have been removed from the bell houseing. The engine starter has been removed yet the two are still held tightly. The cover plate is removed so i can see half of the flywheel but i see no way tot get in there. What have I not done?
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:41 PM   #2
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Auto tranny? You have to spin the torque converter to get at the bolts. You sure you have all of the upper bellhousing bolts out?
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:04 PM   #3
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X2 on torque converter/flexplate bolts.. Rotate crank shaft bolt if necessay to rotate the flexplate bolts. Once those are out- there may still be some difficulty.. After you 'split' the engine/tranny, you have have to wiggle, pry, and wobble them apart.


......the fun part is puttin it back together..
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:15 AM   #4
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...make sure your not snagging on something -maybe an engine mount..


...and after you get them seperated.. you'll look up the transmission, and see the torque converter, and it's saying "hey, take me off too!!!" ..Do yourself a favor- unless you need to replace it, leave it alone..
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:31 AM   #5
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and be sure to keep motor and tranny on even keel. Dont let them bind, as you will destroy the crank sensor in the top of the bellhousing.

You have to maintain the angle between the two when taking off and putting back on. You need 2 people to do this, hopefully you have a hoist and can eyeball it.
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:28 AM   #6
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Default Still trouble

I cant turn the flywheel because the motor is locked up. Which makes me wonder if Im not taking the flywheel out with the engine why cant I just leave it alone. I hope this is ok because I have already started to try to wiggle the engine and tranny apart one of the dowel rods came loose easy the other (left facing the front) is still really tight. Not sure what to do to try to get it loosened the rest of the way.
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:35 AM   #7
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The torque converter can slip out of the transmission, but you have to be very careful not to damage the input shaft on the transmission. You should also replace the torque converter seal before you put it all back together.
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Steering stabilizers will not cure or cause death wobble, they only mask the real problem that is causing death wobble. Oil pumps do not make pressure, they create flow. Bearing clearence and restrictions make pressure. It's the crank sensor.
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Old 06-26-2010, 10:08 AM   #8
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Havent done it on a GC,but I have on a few others.You need to make sure that you pull the torque converter off of the transmission output shaft.This is tricky because if they are the slightest bit out of alignment they will bind.You need to pull the engine perfectly straight away from the tranny until the converter will slide off.Take everything that uses room from the front of the motor and in front of the motor.Good luck!!
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:36 PM   #9
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That is why you pull the torque converter bolts so you don't run the rusk of messing up the trans input shaft or the torque converter...
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Old 06-26-2010, 10:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjrog View Post
That is why you pull the torque converter bolts so you don't run the rusk of messing up the trans input shaft or the torque converter...
True, but his crank is locked up solid.
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Steering stabilizers will not cure or cause death wobble, they only mask the real problem that is causing death wobble. Oil pumps do not make pressure, they create flow. Bearing clearence and restrictions make pressure. It's the crank sensor.
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:22 PM   #11
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I just put a new motor in my 95 xj because the guy i bought it from blew the old one. I tried to do the same thing you are doing taking the motor and leaving the trasmission but ended up having the same problems your having i suggest you take the motor and transmission together like i did it will save you a lot of trouble specially when you go to put the new motor in. You do have to take off a few more bolts but trust me it is much better than trying to fit the trany and motor together while the trany is still in the jeep.

If you decide to do it this way Pm me and i can give u more detail i just finish putting mine in like a week ago so everything is still very fresh

Hope this helps
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:28 PM   #12
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There are 2 12 point 3/8 bolts on the top of the tranny/motor.Did you get those out?
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Old 06-30-2010, 04:06 PM   #13
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jw, how many bolts connect the motor and tranny together? i'm pulling the motor on my zj also and i need to know
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Your lucky that 100 shot of caps lock didn't blow the welds off the Internet.
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:47 PM   #14
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Anyone?!?!
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<<<< DO IT!!!

http://www.racelinepumps.com/

1988 MJ-- Project--jack stands, no axles
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1993 ZJ-- rottin away in the backyard
1993 XJ-- SCRAPPED!!!
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Your lucky that 100 shot of caps lock didn't blow the welds off the Internet.
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Old 07-02-2010, 06:10 AM   #15
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6 hold the trans to the engine, 2 hold the lower inspection cover to the trans, and 2 for the starter. Then there's the 2 dowel pins. IIRC
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Old 07-02-2010, 06:10 AM
 
 
 
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