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#1 |
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Junior Member
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95 Grand Cherokee's rear hatch just stopped opening. Randomly, about a week ago, couldn't get it to open. I'll pull on the handle, but I'm guessing it's a mechanical failure inside of the hatch's handle. Anyone have any tips on how to get it open/fix it?
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#2 | |
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Junior Member
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Quote:
__________________
96 ZJ Laredo, selec-trac 4X4, 4.0L auto, stock for now. Slow build; 07 XK's takin' all my money!!!!
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#3 |
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Seasoned Member
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Happened to my 95 grand cherokee as well. What i did was crawl inside. Carefully pull back the top of the plastic panel, just enough reach your hand down in there and trip the latch.
What happens is there is a threaded rod that has a cheesey clip that connects the handle to the latch. Take off the panel, adjust the threaded rod clip dealie, open and close it a few times to make sure its fixed, then put the plastic panel back on
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DD: 99 Cherokee, Stock Summer DD: 99 Ducati 996, Remus exhaust, regeared, other little things Trailrig: 97 XJ, R.E. 5" w/ drop brackets, 33's, 5150's, C4x4 bumper with MM12K, A/c -> OBA, Aussie locker |
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#4 |
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Junior Member
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Man, gotta hand it to both of you for the quick replies! Powerslave, I tried giving it some bodyweight but that sucker wasnt moving! And Mattpar, I did what you said and got it working like a charm again
Thanks guys
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#5 |
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Member
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I'm going to have to pull the panel on mine, I have to put quite a bit of weight on mine to get it open
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#6 |
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::CF Moderator::
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The hatch on my 98 is stuck. I tried the lean into trick with no luck.
I pulled the interior panel back, busted it pretty good. Grabbed the rod that clips into the clip, tried pulling and pushing down in it... still wont open. Which direction did you move that rod to open? |
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#7 | |
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Seasoned Member
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Quote:
__________________
DD: 99 Cherokee, Stock Summer DD: 99 Ducati 996, Remus exhaust, regeared, other little things Trailrig: 97 XJ, R.E. 5" w/ drop brackets, 33's, 5150's, C4x4 bumper with MM12K, A/c -> OBA, Aussie locker |
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#8 |
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::CF Moderator::
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I'll try it again eventually... after the skin grows back on my right arm.
![]() I already destroyed the panel.. might as well just rip it off so i can see what i'm doing. |
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#9 |
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Member
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I had that problem too. I did crack the bottom panel to get the door panel off. The rod just pull up and after you open screw up the rod. It was chalenge. I suggest replace the lifters. They only $22 a piece.
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#10 |
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Seasoned Member
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After battling with the rear hatch on my 97 I just ripped off the plastic piece that the license plate is attached to. It made quick access to everything I needed and I could see what I was doing. Got the latch to open. Ended up needing to replace my handle and all the parts attached to it. Also while at the JY I sourced a new plastic piece to put in place of the one I broke! Total for all the parts set me back $30!
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1996 XJ 6.5 in. lift, 34" LTBs 1997 ZJ Laredo: 4.0 DD Hers 1996 ZJ Limited: CAI, Screamin' Demon coil, Brass terminal Cap and rotor, 10mm Live Wires, Autolite 3923s, 180* t-stat, SCT Tune, 4300k HIDs, bull bar with Hella 700FFs, clear lenses, Dual exhaust, KOR 2.5" BB + UpCountry springs, Mall Rated stickers, IRO Double Shear Conversion Front Trac Bar, 5.9 hood, 52mm TB, 24lb/hr Injectors Plum Broke build Next on the list: modded keg, cam, 1.6rr's, hughes iron ram heads |
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#11 | |
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CF Veteran
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Quote:
Dan
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Dan '97 Grand Cherokee Limited Orvis Up Country 5.2, 4X4 '04 Grand Cherokee SE 4.7, 4X4 '04 Saturn Vue 250 HP V-6 AWD '85 Dodge Omni GLHTurbo T-2 282 WHP '86 Dodge Omni GLHTurbo T-2 397 WHP CBW Member # 97 ![]() If you're not breaking parts you're not making enough power!!! "I NEED MORE TRACTION, NOT MORE BOOST" |
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#12 |
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Member
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I accidently shut my hatch right on cardboard and couldnt get it open, so what I did was I crawled under and loosened the 2 5/8 bolts that go to the latch in the floor and it came right open.
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#13 |
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Junior Member
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Just a random sidenote to CountryBoy, but I was reading your signature and went to your build thread, and that lead me to your youtube video showcasing your jeep's exhaust (Which sounds sick by the way), and it made me laugh cause I saw that same video like a year ago when I was scoping out people's exhaust setups
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#14 |
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::CF Moderator::
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I had thought about that but didnt think the striker post studs would go up far enough through the body to swing the hatch open. I'll have to try this.
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#15 |
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Newbie
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If you remove about a 3" square of plastic from the inside of the liftgate liner right at the bottom and just to the driver's side of center you will see the metal housing surrounding the latch. In this housing is a small hole; insert a common screwdriver into the hole with the blade vertical and with a bit of trial end error you can pry up the latch arm to release it. It's a lot easier to get the trim panel off with the liftgate open. I'm considering using stainless steel safety wire to help the actuator rod stay in the crappy clip, as mine has jumped out a couple of times.
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