gavinl

I don't believe that I have ever heard that a slight variance in rotor thickness would cause a pulsating effect, it has never happened on any other vehicle I have owned.

What is the tolerance in thickness difference?

Other threads seem to suggest that out of round rear drums are the likely cause or that the tuning ring needs cleaning?

PNWjeeper

I don't know what the tolerance is, I just know I had a car that would vibrate like crazy when any pressure was applied to the brakes. Had them turned once while getting an alignment and it stopped. I'm 90% certain they said they turned the rotors not the drums, but I could be wrong.

Bustedback

Turning the rotors makes them thinner and less able to absorb heat. Replace both of them along with new pads, then hand torque the lugs to 100lbsft. Go easy on them for the first couple of hundred miles so they seat in without glazing up. Make sure the rear brakes are adjusted correctly if you have drums in the rear.

CrisostamoSH90

I had a pulsating on my 03 grand. Bottom slider pins were rusted in the applied position. I'd give them another look over

redlinejeep

Maybe rear axel seal leaking onto back side
of disc

dave1123

Make absolutely certain the axle flanges are smooth and rust free. Put nuts and washers on the rotors are spin them with a dial indicator. they should not runout more than .002" at worst. Also, bad hub bearings will allow the rotor to chatter when you brake. I've been thru all this with my 2000 WJ until I switched to Akebono calipers. Also, don't waste your money on ceramic pads. They'll squeak when you're NOT using them.

JSJJ388

Holy zombie thread lol

dave1123

If you don't have anything constructive to say, don't say anything.

Most of the problems with WJ brakes is they switched to dual piston calipers and everything has to be perfect or they cause problems. I never had brake problems with my ZJ. I WILL say, when you put your foot down at high speed, it's like you threw out an anchor! The WJ weights 4000 lbs and needs big brakes.

JSJJ388

Wasnt being an ***, just saw it in the new posts and read through, then noticed the dates. The ABS would kick in at random on my ZJ . Checked the rotors and pads and were both good. Ended up being a mud caked connection that was shorting out... I hate electrical gremlins.....

dave1123

My bad! I didn't notice the dates either.

JSJJ388

All good

dave1123

Seriously though, I've had brake problems with my WJ since I got it at 125K miles. It's got 209K on it now and the only way I got rid of the problems was to change the original Teves calipers to Akebono calipers. I think this was the standard fix in 02. There is a FSB about pulsating brakes that states you should check for rotor runout to make sure it's within .001" and if not, to turn the rotors on the vehicle. IDK how you do that, but if that's the case, they'd have to remain in the same position on the axle flange until you replaced them, as in paint a stud and index the rotor on that stud every time. That seems excessive to me, but I'm just a dumb driver, what do I know?

The major problem I had with the Teves was one piston of each pair would hang up and not return properly. The lubrication of the slider pins was critical and the pads constantly made dust. A terrible amount of brake dust. Even going to phenolic pistons didn't help. I finally went with a complete Powerstop 4-wheel Akebono brake kit with drilled and slotted rotors and semi-metallic pads. That was 20K miles ago and no problems since. They will sometimes squeak just a touch on a light pressure stop when they are hot. No pulsation and no fade. What I find amusing is the rear calipers are still Teves because they don't make Akebono rear calipers.

By the way, the brake booster has a small vacuum leak in a panic stop from high speed, just a slight whistle from under the dash, but it's been that way for almost 100K miles.

Tha..tha...that's about it!

Jason Todd