rick465

Ok, this is a bit involved but I'm not sure what might be important.
My 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo wouldn't start. I turned the key and I could hear the starter click. So... battery dead. No biggie. Tried again and nothing. I could hear a clicking coming from what seemed to be from under the dash on the passenger side. The key was off and out, if I turned it on the clicking stopped. And get this, if I opened the glove box it stopped too!

No lights would come on, no sound nothing. I connected jumper cables for about 4 minutes and the starter clicking came back and lights came on but it wouldn't start. After a few tries the starter clicking went away and all power was lost.

I connected my battery charger for about 15 minutes and the interior clicking came back for a few minutes and went away, I tried to start it again and it started. However, when I would let off the gas the RPMs would drop and it would almost die unless I stepped on the gas.

I ran it for about 5 minutes, with the accelerator depressed, and trying to let it go but it would always almost die each time. After a short time the battery gauge went all the way to full and the check gauges light came on. Finally, I let off the gas all the way and it died. I tried the charger for another 10 minutes. The charger jumped from fully charged to 1/2 charged during the entire time. The lights on the inside all began to flash and the inside clicking began again. I disconnected the charger and it stopped.

I connected some large jumper cables and it started. I kept the RPM's up and went around the block. Again, the battery gauge went to full and the check gauges light went on. I got back and let off the gas and it died.

The battery tests good and the alternator tests good. I cannot find a loose connection. The belt is tight. What could be causing ALL of this? I did tapp the starter periodically with no result. How do I figure it all out? I know enough to be dangerous but I don't know where to go from here.

Any ideas would be very much appreciated!

dave1123

Here's a place to start (no pun intended). If you still have the molded lead battery cable ends, replace them or the whole cables. They tend to stretch and even thought the clamp bolts are tight, they don't make good contact with the battery posts. Charge the battery fully while you do this. A fully charged battery should show 12.5 to 12.75 volts. From the starter clicking, it shows it's not getting the amps needed to crank the engine. The clicking under the dash is probably the security system not staying alive because of low voltage.

I had a similar problem with my both my ZJ and my WJ. On my ZJ, the cable clamp was stretched. On my WJ, there are 2 wires molded into the cable clamp. One goes to the starter, the other to the PDC (fuse/relay box under the hood). The PDC wire was corroded where it comes out of the clamp so it would crank fine, but the engine would shutter and die at low rpms because the PDC wasn't getting power enough to keep the jeep alive. When it started, the gauges would get all screwy and the tach didn't work. Replacing the cable ends worked in both cases. I used the cheap plated $2 bolted-on ends and they solved the problem.

When the engine is running, the system should show around 13.75 volts. One more thing. Underneath the battery, there is a temperature sensor that tells the PCM to cut back the charge rate when the battery gets hot. If this fails, it can cause premature failure of the battery from overheating. It looks like a spring-loaded button in the center of the battery tray.

I hope this helps. Come back and tell us what you find. It will help others.

rick465

OK, got my trusty hacksaw and removed the positive connector and added a new one (the neg side has a new cable). I wasnt ready to pay $75-$100 to the dealer for a new positive cable. One battery charger showed battery charged the other showed some charge still needed and my multimeter jumped from 11-35 and all in between. So I got on my 'good' clothes and went to Wal-Mart where they said it was just OK but needed to be replaced, so I did.

It cranked right up, with no issues. Not sure how to check the temp sensor under the battery without just replacing it. Now it seems to sputter when I'm driving it. I did fill the tank, which I rarely do because the vent hose seems clogged and it takes 30 minutes to fill it up.

Might be that, or the fuel filter, of some computer issue. Think I'll take it to Auto Shack (yeah, I still call it that) and put it on their machine this week.

THANKS for the advice! At least I'm not walkin'.

dave1123

You need not worry about the temp sensor unless the battery get HOT to the touch. Warm is normal, but HOT boils away the electrolyte and causes plates to sag. I checked mine when I replaced the battery and the spring button was still not corroded.