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Need help jeep overheating and no heat out of the vents.

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Old 02-24-2010, 10:37 PM
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Default Need help jeep overheating and no heat out of the vents.

Need some help guys.

My jeep is a 2000 jeep wj with the 4.0

I was coming home from work today cruising around 60 on the highway and my heat just quit blowing out of the vent then came back for a second then was gone and about 1 min later my guage light came on and the jeep was pushing 240 degrees for coolant temp.

So i pulled over and popped the hood and coolant was just bursting out of the over flow but other then that no hoses were torn other thn the upper radiator hose looked like it was going to explode.

I had my wife pick me up and came and got it about 30 mins later and drove it home which was about 2 miles away and stop by the carwash to hose off the engine so i can look to see if coolant was leaking anywhere else when i got home.

Well after it cooled off an the engine was clean i filled it up with coolant and started it up it took only about 2 mins for it to reach 240 and climbing.

Coolant was bubbling out of the over flow again but know where else and there was also no heat at all coming from the vents and the heater core wasnt leaking and no smell of coolant from the vents.

Also there was no smoke at all form the exhaust or the engine running rough so i dont think its a headgasket.

SO i really need some help after about 4 hours i started it up again and there was a horrible screching noise coming from the front of the engine i couldnt tell if it was a water pump or not so just wondering what you guys think.

The symptoms are .

1. engine overheats with in about 5 mins of being totally cold at idle.

2. the upper radiator hose feels like its going to explode.

3. coolant is bubbling out of the over flow when its running.

4. horrible screeching noise from the front of the engine just started after leaving it sit for a few hours.

5. And no heat at all from the vents.

Also the tempature out side is about -5 F so thats why the no heat is very important.
Old 02-24-2010, 10:38 PM
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Sounds like a stuck thermostat! Possibly a water pump, but I imagine the squeal was from antifreeze on the belts.. Try a thermostat first!
Old 02-24-2010, 10:38 PM
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im 95% sure its the water pump
Old 02-24-2010, 11:26 PM
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My XJ did the same thing.. i let it cool off then tried to drive it home. BOOM blew a hole in the bottom of the radiator, due to a clogged hose. My advice... flush it hardcore!! until every speck of coolant is out of it ! Make sure your heat is all the way on when you flush it, then hook everything back up. best way to start, is to drain it all first. There should be a plug at the bottom of the radiator usually on one of the corners. but hell after i put the new radiator in.. it runs a WHOLE lot cooler! also when you do the flush throw a new thermostat in.. its likely filled with **** too.
Old 02-25-2010, 06:01 AM
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Sounds like a stuck/bad t-stat to me. JMO
Dan
Old 02-25-2010, 10:16 AM
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Well for once i remeber the vehicle has a full coverage extended warranty so i called up the dealership and there having a flat bed come out here to pick up up the jeep to have it looked at.

Normally i would do all the work my self but since the temps here dont want to get above 0 F i'll give it to them.

So hopefull they will get it fixed fast since the loaner kia they gave makes me want to destroy it lol.

Last edited by jeepxjho; 02-25-2010 at 10:18 AM.
Old 02-27-2010, 11:45 PM
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Default overheating xj

sounds more like a seized water pump to me . no coolant flow might expain the no heat & overheating issue.plus the squeal would be from the locked up pully on the water pump ? GOOD LUCK!!!
Old 03-01-2010, 08:10 AM
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Sounds like a stuck thermostat...

I would change the thermostat, pull the belt off and spin the pump by hand just to make sure its not siezed... I'm sure the squeal was from the antifreeze on the belt..
Old 07-28-2010, 07:25 AM
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I am having similar problem in my 2000 Cherokee. Replaced temp sensor, thermostat, radiator, hoses. Flushed multiple times, drilled recommended hole in top of thermostat for venting, burped system, checked flywheel on water pump - no looseness in the shaft and it spins freely. I did find out yesterday that I have no heat. The top hose to the heater is hot but the bottom is cool. Would a blocked heater core cause the entire engine to overheat. What is next? Any suggestion?
Old 07-28-2010, 07:09 PM
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The heater core is a parallel loop to the cooling system, so no it can't block that part. I'd probably pull the thermostat and put the cap back on the engine and start it. Remove the raditor cap and look for coolant flowing across the tubes and look at the condition of the tubes for pluging. If you have no flow then the impeller of the waterpump could have come loose from its shaft.
Old 08-01-2010, 04:38 PM
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Default Pull the top water hose

Pull the top water hose and see if coolant is pumped out of it. If not pull thermostat and see if you have flow. If you have flow you need to check radiator to see if coolant is flowing through it without restriction. If you have flow after removing the thermostat it was a faulty thermostat. If it doesn't begin to flow after removing the thermostast. Pull the bottom hose on the radiator (when it's cooled down) and pour water through as fast as you can. If doesn't flow good repace raditor; If it flows good throught the raditor it will be time to replace the water pump. If all is is flowing good you most likely have a blown head gasket or combustion chamber that is leaking through into the cooling system. You DON'T have to have condensate (steam/smoke) coming out of the exhaust pipe to have a blown head gasket. If you know some one who has a pressure gauge that mounts in the radiator fill (radiator cap position) neck use it to check for pressures that exceed radiator pressure rating (see top of radiator cap) before water temp get hot. Some of these leaks happen after the engine has expanded to a certain amount from engine heat or when under load. Constant air bubbles coming up out of the radiator is another of the symptoms to look for that indicates a blown head gasket.
Everyone should check their engines head bolt torque after 1000 miles on a new engine then again every 50=60,000 miles, loose head bolts are one of the big contributing factors to blown head gaskets. Used vehicles= check them before you buy, if your smart.

Jim

Last edited by depjim; 08-01-2010 at 04:51 PM.
Old 08-02-2010, 04:53 PM
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Default Stupid question

When you say remove the upper hose are you refering to the one going to the heater from the thermostat or the upper raiderator hose?
Old 08-03-2010, 10:42 PM
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Default Upper radiator hose

Upper radiator hose
Old 12-09-2020, 07:13 AM
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Default There's 4 upper radiator hoses over flow thermostat to radiator and one inline heater

Originally Posted by metzintg
When you say remove the upper hose are you refering to the one going to the heater from the thermostat or the upper raiderator hose?
this for upper radiator hose has a return line for the Overflow one that goes to the thermostat from the radiator then one that goes in line to the heater core and then one that returns back from the heater core genius

Last edited by Ryan Sambito; 12-09-2020 at 07:18 AM.
Old 12-09-2020, 09:35 PM
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Bubbling in the reservoir when the coolant is cold is a sure sign of a blown head gasket or cracked head. Is the e-fan coming on after the engine reaches temp? Normally it doesn't run until it reaches 220*, then runs on high until it drops to 195* and remains running on low speed as long as the engine is running. It also runs when the A/C compressor runs, as in defrost.

One other thing is the water pump impeller may be shattered.


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