dave1123

In removing the head and manifolds together, did you use an engine crane or did you man-handle that kid yourself? That head along weighs 85 pounds!

I just received my head from Fedex and it was all I could do to lift it up on the porch. The ***---- delivery guy dumped it on my lawn! I'm 70 years old with bad knees. He used a hand truck. I could see the tracks in the grass.

Also, I think I'm loosing my mind. I ordered all the gaskets and lifters and stuff for my head swap from Rockauto, got my box, opened it up and it seemed something was missing. I went over the invoice and sure enough, I FORGOT TO ORDER THE HEAD GASKET!!! Can you believe it? Doh! That's all right, it'll be here in 2 days. Now. I could have bought it locally, but why burn the gas when I can't get to it for about a week anyway. I've got to line up another vehicle for when it's down.

js03wj

At first I was going to wait on a friend to help but as soon as I took off the head bolts I was able to lift it all by myself on to a bench I had next to jeep. I thought it be harder but nope. Im 5'8 190Ibs, YAY!


Dang fed ex, hes a dummy for messing up your lawn!


Funny thing because I also forgot my head gasket when I ordered.. look at the invoice pic on page 3 you wont see a head gasket so no your not losing your mind..LOL


I ordered everything for this jeep online. From gaskets, assembly lube, to ring installer. I don't want to go to an autoparts store that's going to sale me the same part for more. Well hopefully this journey ends this week coming up because I too need this as a back up car.

philwarner

I've enjoyed reading this thread because the ticking noise in the video sounds just like the sound my 96 Cherokee Country started making immediately after I changed the oil in 05 when I bought it for my wife with 190K miles on the ODO, and it is still making the same sound 80K miles and 10 years later. I should sell it this spring, but it is darn reliable and still looks so good that I hate to part with it even though the wife moved on to a want-it-need-it-gotta-have-it candy apple red 99 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport and I now have a 96 Grand Cherokee and 98 land Rover Discovery.

OK, so it has needed a new water pump, starter, power steering pump, alternator, and "new" used solenoids in the tranny over those years, but it has been a good little jeep and taken us on some pretty long trips and some fun adventures.

dave1123

The 4.0 has an inherent problem with oil supply to the lifters at idle because the supply ports are small. A low rhythmic rattle is normal in an engine with many miles on it and is nothing to be concerned about. It's when it gets loud and seems like one cylinder is when you may have a collapsed lifter.

In my original diagnosis I mentioned valve rocker studs. The 4.0 doesn't use studs, but uses bolted-down solid pivots. I was relying on my Chevy experience.

I'm replacing the 0331 head on my '00 WJ and am putting a new set of Sealed Power lifters in it just for GP's.

js03wj

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Surprise surprise! piston 1 and 2 has no more rings..lol As you can see the rings melted..

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Old pistons and behind the 2 new pistons pressed in.

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Installing the rings, couldn't be any easier with the correct tool!

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Yay. Good excuse to use the new drill! shout out to amazon for the 3 stone and the ring installer.

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Looks better in person. the cross hatch came out nice actually. this is cylinder #1 and you can see cylinder #2 that I haven't de-glazed/resurfaced.

dave1123

Rings don't melt, BUT they break DO up into little pieces, Check the exhaust ports and valves for damage and the pieces are probably in the converter and muffler. I would DEFINITELY pull the other 4 pistons to replace the rings. They have probably lost their tension from the heat and may have seized in the grooves.

Just a little tapping sound, huh? Thanks for listening. You saved yourself some heartaches down the road.

js03wj

Well I did pull all 6 pistons. From #3 and on pistons and rings are fine. Even the cylinders still have cross hatchs. I am going to replace the rings on all 6 since I'm there. Rings where not seized up. I'm also glad I pulled the pistons.

Question . Should I resurface the good cylinders anyways even if they are fine.?

dave1123

Yes, you should break the glaze to help the new rings break in. Also, if there's any ridge at the top, that should be removed as well. This will prevent the new rings from banging up against the ridge and possibly breaking. This is all Engine Rebuilding 101, but if you're not familiar with doing this, can get overlooked. Cylinder ridges are not as prevalent on straight line engines, but show up mostly on V8s or flat 4s. You can hone the scratches out of the first 2 cylinders without worrying about the rings not sealing. Be sure to check the ring end gap before installing the pistons. If they are too small, you can file them.

You said the production cross-hatch is still visible on the other cylinders. This is due to the nodular iron in the new castings of today's engines. That's why they last a lot longer than the 50's engines.

Just to be clear, I hold an SAE Doctor of Motors certificate issued in 1965. This just means I completed a correspondents course in proper engine rebuilding techniques. That was a long time ago and things have changed, BUT the basics are the same. It all boils down to cleanliness and attention to detail. After all, basic engine designs haven't changed in 100 years. (except for the Wankel rotary)

js03wj

Cool! I didn't see any ridges tho. All the pistons slid right out from the top. So I will Dr glaze all cylinders since its fairly easy. Ok. Well wish me luck as I'm finally ganna start the assembly process.. feels like it's been forever.

dave1123

One word of caution. Be very careful not to nick the rod journals with the rod bolts when you put the pistons back in. Even the slightest burr will wipe out the new bearings. There are plastic sleeves you can buy that slide over the bolts that work very well and guide the bolts down over the crank. There is a lot of friction with the new rings and de-glazed cylinder walls and even the best mechanics make mistakes. Me included.

Good luck and let her roar! There is such a satisfying feeling when the first fire-up goes well.

js03wj

sure will! I have some black hose laying around that I could use on the bolts! Wednesday is my deadline day!

moparchero

This is a pretty awesome rebuild. Glad i responded to this earlier on so I can see all the pictures and the correct procedure. Knowledge such as this could always come into practice later on.

js03wj

Thanks! That's why im doing this because in the threads I found before over stated some things that aren't needed. For one the front bumper DOES not have to be removed. Also some folks said you must put jeep on jack stands so the front end hangs in order to get clearance for the oil pan to come off, not true only lifted one side fro the frame and that was all that I needed. a few other things but heres where im at >>>>>



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js03wj

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dave1123

Looks like you know what you're doing.

Just my personal preference, but I always use Clevite 77 bearings. That's what Chrysler used in their racing engines from the 50's on. They have a duller grey look to them and I've never had a bearing problem. This is not to say your choice won't fly. I just like to stick with companies that I've had good luck with over the years.