I failed emissions inspection for "not ready"?
#16
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
The GM HEI ignition was better and less of a problem MOST of the time. That's the one with the coil in the cap. My 67 Camaro was almost as good with the little window in the cap to adjust the point dwell. Get it running, stick a flex hex driver in, and adjust to 30* dwell. Done.
and a Holley 500 2bbl rounded it out. Would hop up to 60 effortlessly in 1st.
#17
Old fart with a wrench
Gotcha beat! 67 SS Camaro 350 Special High Performance, 4-speed muncie with hurst shifter, 4.10 Posi 12-bolt TRUCK rear axle with 3-leaf springs. Factory stock! Well...the 3 leaf springs were a Dana Engineering option.
#18
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Well, yeah, but, mine was built..not bought.
I forgot the hd springs all round, and the air shocks and compressor in the back above the BIG VIC 60's on Keystone mags, and the ollmo 30k mile straight 30 synthetic.
I forgot the hd springs all round, and the air shocks and compressor in the back above the BIG VIC 60's on Keystone mags, and the ollmo 30k mile straight 30 synthetic.
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 06-10-2016 at 12:19 PM.
#19
Old fart with a wrench
Well, yeah, but, mine was built..not bought.
I KNEW you were going to say that! At that point in my life, I'd played around with so much crap and spent so much money on speed equipment that I thought I'd try starting with something worthwhile! There is a great feeling of satisfaction in building something yourself. I think that's one of the things that's driving us to play with jeeps. That and you don't get speeding tickets off-road usually. There is NOTHING like the clean, crisp sound of an engine you put together yourself.
You are mistaken if you think my Camaro stayed stock for long!
Now, what was it we were talking about?
I KNEW you were going to say that! At that point in my life, I'd played around with so much crap and spent so much money on speed equipment that I thought I'd try starting with something worthwhile! There is a great feeling of satisfaction in building something yourself. I think that's one of the things that's driving us to play with jeeps. That and you don't get speeding tickets off-road usually. There is NOTHING like the clean, crisp sound of an engine you put together yourself.
You are mistaken if you think my Camaro stayed stock for long!
Now, what was it we were talking about?
Last edited by dave1123; 06-10-2016 at 12:37 PM.
#20
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
That's good stuff.
Someday I'll tell you about my buddy's sleeper '67 LeMans hardtop automatic with the '65 389 junkyard motor that turned out to be a police taxi high compression, and what he did to it. That would take way too much time. Enjoy the weekend
Someday I'll tell you about my buddy's sleeper '67 LeMans hardtop automatic with the '65 389 junkyard motor that turned out to be a police taxi high compression, and what he did to it. That would take way too much time. Enjoy the weekend
#22
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Problem still unresolved, monitors 'not ready'. Scan tool should arrive soon. Anyone ever replace a PCM? I hear it has to be flashed to your VIN and mileage. How is this done?
#23
Old fart with a wrench
I'm not sure, but I've been told it has to be done with a DRB III scan tool by the dealer. That unit costs around $3000.
Last edited by dave1123; 06-21-2016 at 08:02 AM.
#24
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Yippie, got my new scanner via ebay and the usps. Nothing special just garden variety. So a couple things pop out.
Still no codes
4 monitors not ready, still..
the O2 sensor downstream after the cat, is lazy..and where the scanner shows voltage for both sensors, without explanation it does not display fuel trims for the second, suspect sensor. It does have a nice little real time graph feature, and clearly the second O2 is toast by any definition, weak signal that barely moves a tenth of a volt or so, and with a frrequency of from 3-5 seconds. The upstream bounces nicely from about .1 to .9 or 1VDC.
But, no codes.
Since I did replace the cat and the suspect O2 sensor this inspection year, (yes the sensor coming up bad is a "new" one aftermarket ebay cheapie) I am strongly looking at that, but, with no codes, would it cause the monitors to not run? Remember, fuel trim is awol for the second sensor. I was also told to replace both sensors whenever you do a cat.
Also if I can get the evap system to run, that would also let me pass.
And oh, the drive cycle data says operating temp has to reach 180, and I may only have a 190 T stat in there , 195 is recommended, the temp graph shows it goes as low as 184 and not ever any higher than 190. So maybe time for a CTS and or 195 Tstat.
Thanks in advance, Dave. lol.
Still no codes
4 monitors not ready, still..
the O2 sensor downstream after the cat, is lazy..and where the scanner shows voltage for both sensors, without explanation it does not display fuel trims for the second, suspect sensor. It does have a nice little real time graph feature, and clearly the second O2 is toast by any definition, weak signal that barely moves a tenth of a volt or so, and with a frrequency of from 3-5 seconds. The upstream bounces nicely from about .1 to .9 or 1VDC.
But, no codes.
Since I did replace the cat and the suspect O2 sensor this inspection year, (yes the sensor coming up bad is a "new" one aftermarket ebay cheapie) I am strongly looking at that, but, with no codes, would it cause the monitors to not run? Remember, fuel trim is awol for the second sensor. I was also told to replace both sensors whenever you do a cat.
Also if I can get the evap system to run, that would also let me pass.
And oh, the drive cycle data says operating temp has to reach 180, and I may only have a 190 T stat in there , 195 is recommended, the temp graph shows it goes as low as 184 and not ever any higher than 190. So maybe time for a CTS and or 195 Tstat.
Thanks in advance, Dave. lol.
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 06-22-2016 at 06:24 PM.
#25
Old fart with a wrench
IBT the PCM doesn't read the downstream 02 for fuel trim. I've got a CEL for leak detection pump solenoid which is common on jeeps and have a new one on the way. I hope that's all it is. I can hear it cycling, but maybe it's not holding vacuum. The tank cap is original.
Last edited by dave1123; 06-22-2016 at 08:55 PM.
#26
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
So the downstream sensor being bad..could that make my monitors not run despite not throwing a code? It's about the poorest waveform, even while driving, you could imagine.
If I could even get the 2 monitors to run on the evap I would pass inspection, will be checking that with a toothcomb tomorrow. Solenoid and gas cap included.
If I could even get the 2 monitors to run on the evap I would pass inspection, will be checking that with a toothcomb tomorrow. Solenoid and gas cap included.
#27
Old fart with a wrench
Now that you mention it, I did replace the downstream 02 on my 97 just because the wiring didn't look good. I never had a problem with it not passing because of it, though. For 02 sensors, I like Bosch because they come with the plugs installed so there's no wires to splice AND they are a supplier to Mopar.
#28
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Have narrowed it down, I think, to the downstream O2 heater not having any +12. It's sure not going to heat without that. I'll be dipped if I can find either the 02 relay or the o2 fuse. It must be in the kick panel, because is not in the power distribution center under the hood. However finding my particular fuse diagram with a guide to what fuse is where is proving to be difficult.
http://www.xjtalk.com/attachment.php...1&d=1403637105
http://www.xjtalk.com/attachment.php...1&d=1403637105
#29
Old fart with a wrench
Okay, it's fuse #17 in the PDC under the hood and is 15 amp. Downstream 02 relay fuse.
#30
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Thanks buddy, yeah, I do have the +12, was measuring it key on engine off like i found somewhere. Maybe it does go high for a second or two, but with it running it's high all the time. Sensor ground is good too, I have 12v at the harness. Still getting heater not ready, measured resistance of the original sensor is 3.5 ohms, on the aftermarket its twice that, 7 ohms, meaning it doesn't get hot enough (only half as hot).
That is entirely consistent with the failure modes, the O2 monitor has to run before the CAT monitor will run, before the EVAP monitor will run. So , looks like Ill be buying a bosch today. And measuring the heater resistance before I leave the store with it. Right now I'm feeling like I have a good chance of getting this fixed.
That is entirely consistent with the failure modes, the O2 monitor has to run before the CAT monitor will run, before the EVAP monitor will run. So , looks like Ill be buying a bosch today. And measuring the heater resistance before I leave the store with it. Right now I'm feeling like I have a good chance of getting this fixed.