HELP Hydro fan swap to electrical....HOW TO???
10-21-2016, 04:25 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
HELP Hydro fan swap to electrical....HOW TO???
Friggin hydraulic fan went out on my 2001 GC, 1K at stealership for replacement, I seen on here others doing a fan swap, anyone with knowledge of the particulars please help....Dead in the water till I get it swapped.
Thanks
Thanks
10-21-2016, 06:38 PM
#2
Seasoned Member
You would be done researching this, with a quick search of these forums. This topic has been beat to death. Also check the Cherokee forums.
10-23-2016, 08:47 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I always search first, if nothing comes up I start to ask others for advice, maybe i'm doing something incorrect, but only came up with a few hits is all. Looked for a sticky too, no luck. If it has been beat to death you would think I would get numerous hit, or maybe a sticky for this subject would be good?
Anyway, just looking to get info on this situation, or point me in a viable direction where I can find it.
Thanks
10-23-2016, 09:07 PM
#4
Old fart with a wrench
Okay here's what I know and remember about the previous posts about this subject.
The 2000 WJ both 4.7 and 4.0 only used an electric fan, but the 4.7 used a viscous clutch fan as well with the tow package. The hydro-fan wasn't used until 2001, then only on the 4.7. The electric fan from a 2000 will bolt on very easily but needs some sort of thermostatic control. There are many aftermarket control units available, most are temp adjustable.
The power steering pump should be replaced with one that doesn't have the fan drive takeoff. The original one has a cooler that isn't necessary without the hydro-fan and will bleed off pressure that can be used for steering.
The trick is the PCM will set a trouble code without the hydrofan and nobody has addressed that yet. Many different fan units have been used to good effect, notably the Taurus fan, but keep in mind any housing that partially covers finned radiator area cuts into cooling capacity. A wide open fan, such as the WJ fan, helps pull surrounding air thru the radiator as long as it's used with its original shroud.
That's all I've got. I hope it helps.
The 2000 WJ both 4.7 and 4.0 only used an electric fan, but the 4.7 used a viscous clutch fan as well with the tow package. The hydro-fan wasn't used until 2001, then only on the 4.7. The electric fan from a 2000 will bolt on very easily but needs some sort of thermostatic control. There are many aftermarket control units available, most are temp adjustable.
The power steering pump should be replaced with one that doesn't have the fan drive takeoff. The original one has a cooler that isn't necessary without the hydro-fan and will bleed off pressure that can be used for steering.
The trick is the PCM will set a trouble code without the hydrofan and nobody has addressed that yet. Many different fan units have been used to good effect, notably the Taurus fan, but keep in mind any housing that partially covers finned radiator area cuts into cooling capacity. A wide open fan, such as the WJ fan, helps pull surrounding air thru the radiator as long as it's used with its original shroud.
That's all I've got. I hope it helps.
Last edited by dave1123; 10-23-2016 at 09:14 PM.
10-24-2016, 06:15 AM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Okay here's what I know and remember about the previous posts about this subject.
The 2000 WJ both 4.7 and 4.0 only used an electric fan, but the 4.7 used a viscous clutch fan as well with the tow package. The hydro-fan wasn't used until 2001, then only on the 4.7. The electric fan from a 2000 will bolt on very easily but needs some sort of thermostatic control. There are many aftermarket control units available, most are temp adjustable.
The power steering pump should be replaced with one that doesn't have the fan drive takeoff. The original one has a cooler that isn't necessary without the hydro-fan and will bleed off pressure that can be used for steering.
The trick is the PCM will set a trouble code without the hydrofan and nobody has addressed that yet. Many different fan units have been used to good effect, notably the Taurus fan, but keep in mind any housing that partially covers finned radiator area cuts into cooling capacity. A wide open fan, such as the WJ fan, helps pull surrounding air thru the radiator as long as it's used with its original shroud.
That's all I've got. I hope it helps.
The 2000 WJ both 4.7 and 4.0 only used an electric fan, but the 4.7 used a viscous clutch fan as well with the tow package. The hydro-fan wasn't used until 2001, then only on the 4.7. The electric fan from a 2000 will bolt on very easily but needs some sort of thermostatic control. There are many aftermarket control units available, most are temp adjustable.
The power steering pump should be replaced with one that doesn't have the fan drive takeoff. The original one has a cooler that isn't necessary without the hydro-fan and will bleed off pressure that can be used for steering.
The trick is the PCM will set a trouble code without the hydrofan and nobody has addressed that yet. Many different fan units have been used to good effect, notably the Taurus fan, but keep in mind any housing that partially covers finned radiator area cuts into cooling capacity. A wide open fan, such as the WJ fan, helps pull surrounding air thru the radiator as long as it's used with its original shroud.
That's all I've got. I hope it helps.
dave1123,
Thanks for the info, couple of follow up questions for you or anyone who could answer these...
PCM code, comes on regardless if I were to use a WJ electric fan, or a Tarus fan correct, and do you know model/year of Tarus?
I'm also assuming that I keep the PCM that is under the passenger side headlight and splice off of that 3 wire lead to the wire in the new fan. BTW electrical fan has a 2 wire connector. What are most people doing here, just splicing these together here, or inserting a thermo control?
Thanks all
Ben
Last edited by Gothere; 10-24-2016 at 07:00 AM.
10-24-2016, 09:14 AM
#6
Old fart with a wrench
Okay here's the thing. I'm not at all familiar with the hydro-fan or how it's controlled, how the drive servo is actuated and weither it has 2 speeds or not. I DO know my electric fan is controlled by the PCM thru a pulse modulated relay under the headlight. The fan only has 2 wires and the relay controls it's speeds. The later model WJ electric fans have 3 wires and 2 relays in the PDC, again controlled by the PCM, to control it's speeds. The reason the pulse relay is located where it is is because it gets hot in operation and needs to be cooled. The reason for the hydro-fan was to reduce the electrical load on the system and use the power of the steering pump that's not doing much most of the time anyway. The problem is hydraulics are expensive to produce and replace and are prone to leaks. With most things like this, the theory was good, the practice, not so much.
As far as the CEL is concerned, I have a code P0740 Torque Converter Clutch that I've dealt with for 3 years now. It's the converter itself, but I'm not pulling it apart just for that. The problem is the PCM runs diagnostics all the time and if something is wrong, it sets a CEL and stops the monitor checks! Therefore, when you try to get it inspected, some of your monitors will come up as "not ready." What I have been doing is clearing the codes, then checking the monitors with my scan tool until only one is not ready, then rushing down to my mechanic to get it inspected before that P0740 resets! My drive cycle is about 220 miles. NY allows one "not ready."
Which fan you use will determine which controller you use. Bustedback is one of the people that used a Taurus fan and aftermarket controller. Review his posts about it. If you can nail a WJ fan and shroud, they fit perfectly.
As far as the CEL is concerned, I have a code P0740 Torque Converter Clutch that I've dealt with for 3 years now. It's the converter itself, but I'm not pulling it apart just for that. The problem is the PCM runs diagnostics all the time and if something is wrong, it sets a CEL and stops the monitor checks! Therefore, when you try to get it inspected, some of your monitors will come up as "not ready." What I have been doing is clearing the codes, then checking the monitors with my scan tool until only one is not ready, then rushing down to my mechanic to get it inspected before that P0740 resets! My drive cycle is about 220 miles. NY allows one "not ready."
Which fan you use will determine which controller you use. Bustedback is one of the people that used a Taurus fan and aftermarket controller. Review his posts about it. If you can nail a WJ fan and shroud, they fit perfectly.
Last edited by dave1123; 10-24-2016 at 09:24 AM.
10-24-2016, 10:33 AM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Okay here's the thing. I'm not at all familiar with the hydro-fan or how it's controlled, how the drive servo is actuated and weither it has 2 speeds or not. I DO know my electric fan is controlled by the PCM thru a pulse modulated relay under the headlight. The fan only has 2 wires and the relay controls it's speeds. The later model WJ electric fans have 3 wires and 2 relays in the PDC, again controlled by the PCM, to control it's speeds. The reason the pulse relay is located where it is is because it gets hot in operation and needs to be cooled. The reason for the hydro-fan was to reduce the electrical load on the system and use the power of the steering pump that's not doing much most of the time anyway. The problem is hydraulics are expensive to produce and replace and are prone to leaks. With most things like this, the theory was good, the practice, not so much.
As far as the CEL is concerned, I have a code P0740 Torque Converter Clutch that I've dealt with for 3 years now. It's the converter itself, but I'm not pulling it apart just for that. The problem is the PCM runs diagnostics all the time and if something is wrong, it sets a CEL and stops the monitor checks! Therefore, when you try to get it inspected, some of your monitors will come up as "not ready." What I have been doing is clearing the codes, then checking the monitors with my scan tool until only one is not ready, then rushing down to my mechanic to get it inspected before that P0740 resets! My drive cycle is about 220 miles. NY allows one "not ready."
Which fan you use will determine which controller you use. Bustedback is one of the people that used a Taurus fan and aftermarket controller. Review his posts about it. If you can nail a WJ fan and shroud, they fit perfectly.
As far as the CEL is concerned, I have a code P0740 Torque Converter Clutch that I've dealt with for 3 years now. It's the converter itself, but I'm not pulling it apart just for that. The problem is the PCM runs diagnostics all the time and if something is wrong, it sets a CEL and stops the monitor checks! Therefore, when you try to get it inspected, some of your monitors will come up as "not ready." What I have been doing is clearing the codes, then checking the monitors with my scan tool until only one is not ready, then rushing down to my mechanic to get it inspected before that P0740 resets! My drive cycle is about 220 miles. NY allows one "not ready."
Which fan you use will determine which controller you use. Bustedback is one of the people that used a Taurus fan and aftermarket controller. Review his posts about it. If you can nail a WJ fan and shroud, they fit perfectly.
Thanks dave 1123,
got the wj electric fan, think I'm going that route, just have to figure how to wire it correctly. I've seen on other posts a hint at the 3rd wire being an o2 sensor?
Anyway will keep you posted on what shakes out.
Thanks for the help
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10-24-2016, 12:46 PM
#8
Old fart with a wrench
What? The third wire is a second field wire for low speed. Where did you get the idea it was for an 02 sensor? That isn't even logical. 02 sensors send back data for mixture control at millivolt levels. It wouldn't even be for an 02 sensor HEATER.
Someone's feeding you BS bigtime.
Someone's feeding you BS bigtime.
10-24-2016, 02:11 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
What? The third wire is a second field wire for low speed. Where did you get the idea it was for an 02 sensor? That isn't even logical. 02 sensors send back data for mixture control at millivolt levels. It wouldn't even be for an 02 sensor HEATER.
Someone's feeding you BS bigtime.
Someone's feeding you BS bigtime.
Was doing research on this issue, and on another forum from past posts there was a side discussion that talked about that.
Looks as though I'm going with an 2000 power steering pump, and a 2000 fan, just have to find a good (inexpensive fan controller now) everything should bolt in and hopefully run ok?
10-24-2016, 07:13 PM
#10
Old fart with a wrench
The fan controllers I've been looking at have a temperature probe that slips into the radiator fins so you don't have to make provisions for a wet sensor. Busted said he used a circuit breaker instead of a fuse in his circuit because he melted a 40 amp fuse holder.
IDK about the CEL because my 2000 didn't set a code when my relay failed. I just got a "check gauges" warning and noticed the temp needle up around 240*F! I was just relating what other people have said.
IDK about the CEL because my 2000 didn't set a code when my relay failed. I just got a "check gauges" warning and noticed the temp needle up around 240*F! I was just relating what other people have said.
10-24-2016, 10:20 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well got in the power steering pump, and the WJ stock electric fan, truck runs good, what I have to do next is get an adjustable fan controller on it.
Once I get that on it, then run down the CEL I'm certain I will have, we'll see what shakes out.
BTW Power steering pump was from a 2000 WJ and it bolted right in, also the Electric Fan was from a 2000 WJ, not a bad fit but really not exact.
Once I get that on it, then run down the CEL I'm certain I will have, we'll see what shakes out.
BTW Power steering pump was from a 2000 WJ and it bolted right in, also the Electric Fan was from a 2000 WJ, not a bad fit but really not exact.
10-30-2016, 11:19 AM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Put in a Murray Electric fan controller, cheap little item and not really confident it will do a good job.
Anyone have any suggestions on a good dependable fan controller, perhaps without going into the $200-$300 range?
Anyone have any suggestions on a good dependable fan controller, perhaps without going into the $200-$300 range?
10-30-2016, 06:33 PM
#13
Old fart with a wrench
If you want my opinion, whatever controller you use, install an emergency bypass switch so you don't overheat!
10-31-2016, 09:45 AM
#14
Senior Member
the by-pass switch is not a bad idea. I had some issues with my electric fan when first installed. I like having it over the mechanical fan, keeps the jeep cool when driving slow but I don't like the additional points of failure.
10-31-2016, 12:02 PM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
And the fan setup on its first test drive only kept the vehicle at 206-207...without AC on, that won't work for AZ.
Although I still have to fully modify the fan shroud to a better fit, top of the shroud has a 1/4" gap where I'm sure air is getting pulled through.
And last but not least the damn CEL light is annoying!!!
