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Driveshaft pinion yoke question..

Old 10-21-2014, 07:57 PM
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Question Driveshaft pinion yoke question..

Hey all,

I've got a '96 Grand Cherokee, 4 wheel drive (in theory), I6. I need to replace the drive shaft pinion yoke in my front diff. One person told me that I've got a Dana 35 up front and someone else told me it was a Dana 30.....how do I find out which one I have? Also, what type of yoke should I be lookin' for? I've seen several different kinds. Half of 'em are U bolt style and the other half use the straps. All the yokes look quite a bit different from each other and I don't know which one I should consider. Also, I'd like to keep the cost of the yoke well under $100, as I'm trying to get the rest of my 4 wheel drive back into operating order.
Any input would be much appreciated on this subject.....I really want to get this done so I won't get stuck in the snow anymore....in a jeep....with 4 wheel drive......kinda sad.
Old 10-21-2014, 11:13 PM
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That's easy, it's a D30. It's the only front diff used in a ZJ. The rear diff is a D35c meaning it uses c-clips to hold the axles in.

Why does it need to be replaced? is it broken? If not, the holes are threaded or smooth inside. That will determine which one it is. If it's broken or damaged, either one can be used. However, replacing it is a touchy job that requires experience so as to not overtorque the pinion bearings. Your best bet is a junk yard part, but usually they won't let you disassemble a good axle. Hang on a second while I check something.

Okay, jeep4x4center.com has them new for $49.95. It looks like the bolt-and-strap one is most common. The bolts are 1/4 fine thread and have 12-point heads, but they don't come with the yoke.

Yeah, it's embarrassing being stuck in a Jeep, isn't it?

Last edited by dave1123; 10-21-2014 at 11:25 PM.
Old 10-22-2014, 03:57 AM
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Ill ship you one for $30.
Old 10-22-2014, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by dave1123
That's easy, it's a D30. It's the only front diff used in a ZJ. The rear diff is a D35c meaning it uses c-clips to hold the axles in.

Why does it need to be replaced? is it broken? If not, the holes are threaded or smooth inside. That will determine which one it is. If it's broken or damaged, either one can be used. However, replacing it is a touchy job that requires experience so as to not overtorque the pinion bearings. Your best bet is a junk yard part, but usually they won't let you disassemble a good axle. Hang on a second while I check something.

Okay, jeep4x4center.com has them new for $49.95. It looks like the bolt-and-strap one is most common. The bolts are 1/4 fine thread and have 12-point heads, but they don't come with the yoke.

Yeah, it's embarrassing being stuck in a Jeep, isn't it?
Thanks for the reply dude, appreciate it. Yeah, that's what I thought about the axle...being a Dana 30.

As far as why it needs replacing.....About 2 years ago, I removed the front drive shaft trying to isolate a grinding noise. Well, when I went to reattach it drive shaft one of the strap bolts snapped inside the whole. Tried using an extractor and that broke too. So, I just want to be done with it and get it going. I've got a guy who does jeeps so I can have him do the yoke.

On top of that I need to rebuild the u-joint in my left front half shaft to get the 4WD working.

Yeah, also, I did see that web site the other day. That's when I saw all the different yokes.
Thanks again for the info man.
Old 10-22-2014, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Thexjfiles
Ill ship you one for $30.
Wow man, that's a great offer.....only problem is I can't do it right now. I'm short on funds right now because I'm right in the middle of replacing front shocks, muffler, lower front control arm bushings, new tires up front and my inspection. I might have to wait to do the work til this spring anyway. I'm just trying to arm myself with as much info as I can before getting this project going.
But damn dude....that is a killer deal. What condition is it in?
Old 10-22-2014, 12:27 PM
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Okay, I've been a toolmaker all my adult life and here's what I did with my '89 Chevy truck. I had the same problem with my rear axle u-joint yoke. I broke a bolt, drilled it out for an easy-out, broke that. I shattered the easy-out with heat and cold water, and picked out the pieces. Then I drilled out the bolt all the way thru, used a 1/4-28 grade 12 hex cap screw (Allen wrench head) and used a grade 8 nut on the back. 2 years later it was still on it when I sold the truck. The only problem with hex cap screws is the socket for the Allen wrench is so close a fit that you have problems getting the wrench to fit after it rusts up.

Maybe you can fix yours the same way temporarily to use 4WD this winter.
Old 10-22-2014, 11:28 PM
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Excellent condition. Just drill out all the holes and use the Ford U-bolt kit found in any auto parts store. Its on the Help rack. I did that on my D35. Its a lot stronger, gets rid of those wimpy straps.
Old 10-24-2014, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Thexjfiles
Excellent condition. Just drill out all the holes and use the Ford U-bolt kit found in any auto parts store. Its on the Help rack. I did that on my D35. Its a lot stronger, gets rid of those wimpy straps.
Hmm...didn't even think about that. I wasn't sure if yoke's needed a specific strap or u bolt....not to mention I didn't know you could swap a strap for the U bolts. This idea sounds like the most convenient, economical route to take. What size drill do I need to drill out the existing holes?
Old 10-24-2014, 04:48 PM
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Don't quote me, but I believe it's 1.4". Actually, an "F" drill (.257")
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