rangermonroe

Just found out the new one had this "feature".

I was wondering why the interior lights took forever to shut off and the "auto" lights weren't functioning. Lo and behold, it was missing the number 19 fuse.

For those of you tuning in just now, my 17 yo son found this 94 with the 8 banger and AWD. The rear end was locked up, so we replaced it together. Good times.

I knew that a 20 yo car will have some gremlins, but I own 3 other jeeps so I am pretty confident that we can get this girl back running.

However;

this VIC is a new animal to me and from what I am googling, quite the temperamental beast.

It tells me that I need to service my 4wd switch, and that my driver's door is ajar. Yet, when I place the TC in neutral, my door magically closes. And my coolant temp sensor is broken. (is there one that feeds the VIC that is different than the one that feeds the dash gauge? That one appears to work as it should. )

Oh.. the chime is a constant tone, not a chime. More like the alert tone in the firehouse. I listen to that at work, and I can't tolerate that back and to the station.

Is there a consensus on where to start? I am capable of disassembling circuit boards and re-soldering them if need be, but I would obviously like to avoid unnecessary pursuits.

Perhaps pulling the fuse back out...

Not gonna sit well with the OCD though.

dave1123

It sounds to me like a dodgy Body Control Module. Most guys just forget about fixing the VIC because it can get complicated and frustrating, but go for it. There is only one temp sensor and it feeds the gauge. The BCM monitors all that crap and tells the VIC what to display. If it were mine, I'd just leave the fuse out. In my '97, the chime quit and it was all right by me.

In my WJ, I just leave it on compass/temp anyhow.

rangermonroe

The old girl started running really rough and getting worse at a geometric rate.

After work this morning I decided to put that fuse back in and drown out the tone with the radio, just to see what would happen.

"Door Ajar" and "Coolant Temp sensor Bad" were the two lights on when I left. The coolant light went out as soon as it came off "stone cold", but the "4WD" error came up.

4 miles later the tone quit, and my overhead console came on.

The engine ran smooth as well. There was no stumbling nor stuttering as it was on my way to work, and the MPG (displayed on the OC) began to climb.

Not sure if the ECM was dependent on that fuse being in place and was in "Limp In" mode, or this is just coincidental. I am pleased though.

Ah... the joys of discovering the quirks in a 20yo, new to me, vehicle.

rangermonroe

Has this thing ever been right?

Is it possible that my temp sensor is out of whack, and that my 4wd switch actually needs adjusting?

I submit this: when I shift from 4H to N, and back, it sounds like a coffee grinder full of gravel. Almost as though there is no synchronizer gear.

This is all brand new to me, my other 4wd Jeep does no such thing.

dave1123

When you shift to neutral on the t-case, you're disconnecting the output shaft(s) from the transmission input. They will be spinning at different rates then. You're right! There IS no synchronizer. You should shift the Transmission to neutral before putting the t-case back into gear. Even then, you have to match shaft speeds to get it to engage without grinding. Why would you shift the t-case to neutral while driving anyway? Neutral is only there to disconnect the power so you can go to low range.

rangermonroe

in neutral in the driveway. Not moving at all.

dave1123

In that case, shift to park to stop the trans shaft from spinning. Be aware that THAT will grind. If the engine is running, the transmission is in neutral, and the t-case is in neutral, the transmission output shaft will spin just because of friction of the clutches. The only way to stop it is to shut off the engine. Normally sitting with the engine running and the trans in neutral, the output shaft doesn't spin because the differential won't let it. (with the t-case in gear).

Confusing? Yes. Just think about it.

rangermonroe

Where is the Dang BCM?

I can't find it!

dave1123

Depending on the year of the jeep, which you never stated, it's under the center console in front of or behind the shifter. Usually, that is. I've heard of it being next to the fuse panel.

In my WJ, the VIC is overhead and is programmable in 5 languages and controls things like auto door locks, headlight delay off, lights flash with alarm set, and other stuff I don't care about. As I said, I just leave it on compass and outside temp. It's been set there so long that when I try to go to the other functions, the button doesn't work.

My '97 ZJ had the display underneath the radio and it used to give me the temp sensor warning all the time. The chime finally quit working, so much the better as far as I was concerned. The thing I miss about the VIC in the ZJ is it used to give the day/date/time. My WJ doesn't have that, only the radio gives the time.

The VIC is just one of those "bells & whistles" that make it a Grand.

rangermonroe

it's a 1994 zj with a V8.

Thanks.

It most certainly is not under the L side kick panel, as I have taken this entire jigsaw puzzle apart today. Grrrr.

Will post back after I re-assemble the dash and dis-assemble the center console.

Thank God it's beer thirty here now.

dave1123

Hey, maybe you can solve a problem for me! My shifter light is out and I'd like to know how to access it. The shifter plate doesn't seem to be easily removable, so does the whole console need to be removed , and how do you remove the shift *****?

rangermonroe

Can do!

There are two screws in the "tub" under the arm rest. Remove them.

Gently pry up the front of the shift plate cover bezel. It is marked on the left PRND12. ( :P). There are 4 screws beneath that plate. Rotate the trim to access them.

I haven't figured out how to remove the shift handle. Forgot actually, as it has been at least 10 years.

I ran out of daylight and beer, so I didn't finish tonight.

IIRC, though, You can "wee-wah" the trim bezel down through the hole as you lift the console off.

None of that should be necessary to replace the bulb, however.

rangermonroe

Whoa, Nellie!

You don't need a single tool to check that bulb.

Skip all the "removing" stuff parts and just pull the trim bezel up gently from the front.

It has those friction fit tabs holding it down and the light bulb twists into the housing.

(I just went out and looked for you).

Oh, and I found what I hope to be the BCM near the Emergency brake, under the console. Beer, Daylight, and the kid wanting me to help fix the boat all conspired against a timely fix to this project. The sea trout and redfish are biting, and a man has to have his priorities in order.

dave1123

Thanks guy! I'm just afraid to stick my knife blade under something that's NOT supposed to be removed.

I had a problem with my passenger's map light on my WJ. Everybody AND the dealer said to just pry the lens off. WRONG! After scratching it up and nearly destroying it, I took the console off the ceiling. Easy Peasy from the back!