Cannot solve DW
#16
Old fart with a wrench
Okay, three things come to mind. I notice you're running 15" wheels. Are you running wheel spacers/adapters or are they custom wheels? The WJ comes with 16" wheels to clear the larger brakes. If you're running spacers, check the wheel bearings for looseness. Also, my WJ has cam bolts on the frame end of the lower control arms. IDK how much adjustment they have, but you really need 7* (plus or minus 1/2*) caster, especially with heavy tires. The third thing is the steering box. Make sure there is no looseness in the gears and the mounting bolts are tight. Sometimes they break or become loose. Afterthought, how are the ball joints?
I'm running 245/70R16 tire on stock wheels. I'd really like a 2" lift for snow pack clearance, but I'm afraid to do it because I don't want to start problems with the suspension. I use my jeep daily for my business, so I can't afford to have it laid up. I just replaced all 4 ball joints and one master steering link end, but all I had for symptoms was a wander, but no DW. She now has 176K on her.
I'm running 245/70R16 tire on stock wheels. I'd really like a 2" lift for snow pack clearance, but I'm afraid to do it because I don't want to start problems with the suspension. I use my jeep daily for my business, so I can't afford to have it laid up. I just replaced all 4 ball joints and one master steering link end, but all I had for symptoms was a wander, but no DW. She now has 176K on her.
#17
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Year: 2001
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Well if it doesn't I would say that guy is probably right. You need more caster. I heard offset ball joints are weaker. Don't know if that's true or not. Does it look like there is a place for shims behind your lower control arm mounts?
This is what I was asking about. I'd add as much caster as possible and see if that helps.
This is what I was asking about. I'd add as much caster as possible and see if that helps.
Last edited by XJmike0122; 08-02-2015 at 06:06 PM.
#19
Old fart with a wrench
The only reason to use offset ball joints is to correct a CAMBER problem. Control arm length determines caster settings. If you can't get it set properly, you may need to go to adjustable control arms.
I really can't understand why you have DW at 25 mph unless you're overlooking something major. Get those tires spin-balanced. Even new tires sometimes are faulty. At least try swapping the fronts to the rear.
I really can't understand why you have DW at 25 mph unless you're overlooking something major. Get those tires spin-balanced. Even new tires sometimes are faulty. At least try swapping the fronts to the rear.
#21
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
The only reason to use offset ball joints is to correct a CAMBER problem. Control arm length determines caster settings. If you can't get it set properly, you may need to go to adjustable control arms.
I really can't understand why you have DW at 25 mph unless you're overlooking something major. Get those tires spin-balanced. Even new tires sometimes are faulty. At least try swapping the fronts to the rear.
I really can't understand why you have DW at 25 mph unless you're overlooking something major. Get those tires spin-balanced. Even new tires sometimes are faulty. At least try swapping the fronts to the rear.
Thanks for your help!!!
HERES THE VIDEO:
Last edited by gotspeed74; 08-02-2015 at 07:30 PM. Reason: add link
#22
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
Caster should always be set to the factory spec. of 6-8 deg.
A few things that come to mind....
BallJoints.
Unit bearing hubs.
Broken belt in 1 or both tires.
Worn-out control arm bushings.
Soft or cracked bushing in the trackbar (axle side).
Incorrect toe-in.
Incorrect thrust angle.
Improper camber.
Worn-out steering componenets.
Loose steering gear box bolts.
Cracked unibody at steering gear box.
A few things that come to mind....
BallJoints.
Unit bearing hubs.
Broken belt in 1 or both tires.
Worn-out control arm bushings.
Soft or cracked bushing in the trackbar (axle side).
Incorrect toe-in.
Incorrect thrust angle.
Improper camber.
Worn-out steering componenets.
Loose steering gear box bolts.
Cracked unibody at steering gear box.
THANKS!!! all have been checked and/or replaced except adjustable conrol arms. but i dont want to buy them until im sure thats the problem.
Last edited by gotspeed74; 08-02-2015 at 07:51 PM.
#26
Old fart with a wrench
Just for jollies, check your UPPER control arm bushings. The only other thing I can think of is to put it up on a lift and run it in 4WD and see if something is out of wrack. If you're getting shaking at low speed, there must be something that's not tracking true. How's the front driveshaft CV joint? That shouldn't have anything to do with DW unless the shaft is bent.
You didn't have this problem before the lift and that's what's messing up my head. A 3" lift shouldn't be causing this problem. Did you install longer shocks? They could be topped out if not.
You didn't have this problem before the lift and that's what's messing up my head. A 3" lift shouldn't be causing this problem. Did you install longer shocks? They could be topped out if not.
#27
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Year: 1999
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Just for jollies, check your UPPER control arm bushings. The only other thing I can think of is to put it up on a lift and run it in 4WD and see if something is out of wrack. If you're getting shaking at low speed, there must be something that's not tracking true. How's the front driveshaft CV joint? That shouldn't have anything to do with DW unless the shaft is bent.
You didn't have this problem before the lift and that's what's messing up my head. A 3" lift shouldn't be causing this problem. Did you install longer shocks? They could be topped out if not.
You didn't have this problem before the lift and that's what's messing up my head. A 3" lift shouldn't be causing this problem. Did you install longer shocks? They could be topped out if not.
I really appreciate the help. Shocks are new and I took off the front DS just to eliminate that. Upper control arms are good. The only think that isn't New is the cv axles and wheel bearings but I had them checked and no play. Funny thing is: when I first lifted it I got DW. So I put track bar on and still had DW so I replaced all tie rods. It was gone for about a few days. After the alignment it came back . What's your thoughts on cv axle? No slack and no clicking but who knows at this point.
#28
Old fart with a wrench
I'm searching my brain now and I seem to remember someone saying you should loosen all the control arm bushing bolts after a lift, set the vehicle on the ground, and retighten them. I don't remember why or what that does, but maybe someone else can enlighten us.
#29
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Year: 1999
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Great info! I do remember reading that. I'll try it this evening! Thanks
#30
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Here's a little more info. When this first started, it would only happen when I hit a bump on the pass side. Now it's all the time no matter the side. Because of a previous post I now remember when I drove the jeep home after buying it, I was slowing down, brakes applied, and hit a bump. That was my very first taste of death wobble. But immediately hit brakes hard and it stopped. So I changed out that rotor, pads and caliper. Didn't have it again till I lifted it.
I'm sooooooo lost!
I'm sooooooo lost!