Best way to line up upper control arm bolts?
#1
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Year: 1996
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Best way to line up upper control arm bolts?
Hey there, normally a Ford guy but bought my first ZJ/Jeep the other weekend. My ex-GF was from a jeep/Chrysler family and got me turned on to being a heep owner.
The ZJ has a 3 inch lift from the PO. Working on replacing the Control arm bushings and motor mounts with poly (this is not a daily and will only be for beating on the trail so I don't care about vibes) since motor mounts are shot and it has a death wobble from control arms being shot too. Already did the lower arm on the passenger side and got the energy suspension bushings in the upper but having a hell of a time getting it to line up. anyone have any tips? I only have the one wheel off and one side on a jackstand. Tried jacking on the trackbar to tilt back to where I need it to be but no luck so far.
Maybe pull the other wheel off too and get the heep level?
The ZJ has a 3 inch lift from the PO. Working on replacing the Control arm bushings and motor mounts with poly (this is not a daily and will only be for beating on the trail so I don't care about vibes) since motor mounts are shot and it has a death wobble from control arms being shot too. Already did the lower arm on the passenger side and got the energy suspension bushings in the upper but having a hell of a time getting it to line up. anyone have any tips? I only have the one wheel off and one side on a jackstand. Tried jacking on the trackbar to tilt back to where I need it to be but no luck so far.
Maybe pull the other wheel off too and get the heep level?
Last edited by 96ZJguy; 10-22-2016 at 01:26 PM.
#2
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Year: 1996
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I am a visual kind of guy so here are some pics for you.
I did leave the bushing in the axle alone since rubber was good and solid on it and looked like would have been a PITA to try and press old out and new in.
I did leave the bushing in the axle alone since rubber was good and solid on it and looked like would have been a PITA to try and press old out and new in.
#3
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When I did mine I used ratchet straps to pull the parts into alignment.
Others put the wheels on the ground and use the engine / transmission to move the vehicle forward or back to attain alignment.
Others put the wheels on the ground and use the engine / transmission to move the vehicle forward or back to attain alignment.
#4
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Holy crap. I will admit I didn't comb the forums but I would have never thought to put it on the ground with the upper loose and move it forward and back but that might work..... I am definitely going to try a ratchet strap first. - I did not think about that I appreciate you.
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
You have learned that the upper arms are a pain in the butt to get lined up. They look so simple, but will kick your *** every time. Especially with poly bushings.
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I was going to wait to put on new springs but considering I can't get it lined up anyways looks like I am swapping front springs early so ordered some today. It's an Orvis ZJ (so sits around a 1 inch higher than stock when new) and PO just did a 3 inch budget lift so bought 4 inch lift rubicon express springs for front and going to rotate fronts to rear and remove the budget blocks all around.
Sucks tho since springs won't be here until next weekend (was only $78 open box shipped on amazon if any need any). Going to go ahead and swap the bushings on the lower drivers side control arm tomorrow and let it sit until I get the spring off that side so I can get it in easier hopefully with shock and spring removed/disconnected.
Last edited by 96ZJguy; 10-22-2016 at 10:48 PM.
#7
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Get one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ist-67144.html
Works like a charm. Had mine done in a few minutes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ist-67144.html
Works like a charm. Had mine done in a few minutes.
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#8
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Get one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ist-67144.html
Works like a charm. Had mine done in a few minutes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ist-67144.html
Works like a charm. Had mine done in a few minutes.
#9
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Come-along will work the same. Spring should be okay, I didn't have shocks installed when I did mine, so can't say if having it connected or not makes a difference...I would think you could leave it in. Hook up your come-along and give it a shot before you start ripping things out. Can't hurt to try first.
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Come-along will work the same. Spring should be okay, I didn't have shocks installed when I did mine, so can't say if having it connected or not makes a difference...I would think you could leave it in. Hook up your come-along and give it a shot before you start ripping things out. Can't hurt to try first.
The rubber looks solid in the other upper on the axle. After going through heck on this one I may just leave that one be too.
Last edited by 96ZJguy; 10-24-2016 at 08:40 AM.
#11
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FWIW, changing all the bushings, control arms and steering bits restored the handling on my ZJ to new condition.
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The rubber in that one looks really really solid (haven't checked drivers side yet) it literally looks new, no rotting or deformation at all. Think I should press it out? My concern is I have been using a ball joint press to press old rubber out and if there is rubber remaining I have been burning it off/out then cleaning the sleeve up with a wire brush. I am way to sketched out to light a fire on an axle directly under an oil pan. I guess I could go buy a new bushing with sleeve and beat the old one out and put my energy suspension bushing in the new sleeve and press/hammer it in.
I couldn't find my come along. I think my buddy borrowed it and he is the worst kind of friend when it comes to returning stuff.... I decided to just wait until the springs come in. Figure it will be much easier to get the front end in place when I have shock unhooked, sway bar unhooked, and old coil spring out. I wanted those springs in for more articulation anyways.
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Man sure learning a lot on my first solid axle 4x4... all my fords are all TTB. only pivot bushings and radius arm bushings on those and only one to each side. This control arm/track bar stuff is all new to me.
#15
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Follow the FSM, especially the part about torquing the bolts while the wheels are on the ground w/ a normally loaded vehicle.
This post shows that the front axle uses a machined cast iron bore for one bushing and a formed sheet metal part for the other bushing.
When I aligned the bolts for my axles I used ratchet straps.
This post shows that the front axle uses a machined cast iron bore for one bushing and a formed sheet metal part for the other bushing.
When I aligned the bolts for my axles I used ratchet straps.