munyanb

I went over it again with 400 one more time and put the new 0.01 undersized bearing in. it really feels tight, I cranked it over a few times by hand. I got the oil pan clean finally I think. got the gasket surface cleaned, got everything ready to put back together, but it stormed so I get one more day at least before the crying, lol. When I think about it I should have rotated the shaft more often when I was sanding. There is a lot I could've done better, and if I could figure out a way to attach a drill it would have been better also. A better work area especially or just not in the engine. laying on an incline in gravel wasn't the best of places, but that's part of it.
Oh I found something interesting , there is an electric fan inside the radiator shroud, but it still has a normal clutch fan on it. That's not supposed to be there is it? It has a real plug running to it, not just wired in that I can see.

dave1123

I believe that's for enhanced cooling with the tow package.

munyanb

Hey Dave, can I delete the normal heavy power robbing clutch fan and only use this electric fan? I really want to finish this little experiment and see if it works, and if it does I would have to say it is a victory for every jeep enthusiast or do it your selfer that just simply can't afford to got to the shop for work like this. It will not hurt machine shops in the least though, as people that will do this probably couldn't afford the machine shop in the first place, it isn't easy enough for someone to want to do it if they have the money. My hands were really sore and banged up and burnt up from pulling the string back and forth. Also , I may hook the starter back up and crank the engine over several times without the spark plugs in, or just do it by hand , then check my torque on the rod caps again, I really don't think anything will change but I feel like I should do it. As I did torque it down I did rotate the crank to try to get the bearings to find where they were most comfortable to sit. I made sure nothing was to lose so that it would come out of place, and people need to remember to be very careful of your rod cap studs hitting your rod journal when you mess around in there. Them hardened bolts are a harder steel than the crank and will scar it , probably making it chew up your brand new bearing. And I have a question for future reference, can bearings be reused? Like if I took the crank completely out , could I reassemble it with the old bearings?

dave1123

I believe the electric fan will do a sufficient job of cooling by itself because that's all my WJ has. The trick is to get it thermostatically controlled so it turns on when needed and doesn't run when the temp is below 210*. My fan is fused at 40 amps so you'll need a relay that will carry that much. There are systems on the market to do exactly that or you can build it yourself.

On the bearings. You're talking to a retired toolmaker/machinist with over 40 years experience with this kind of thing and I don't think your fix will last long at all. Yes, it's been done before, but it's a stop-gap measure at best. This type of fix may work on farm equipment or stationary engines, but not under the abuse of high heat, high stress of road usage. This, of course, is just my opinion but I think I'm right. I've built 5 or 6 Chevy small blocks, a couple that were used for drag racing, so I have first hand knowledge of what will work and what won't.

Yes, you can put it back together with the old bearings, but why would you?

munyanb

I wouldn't use old bearings unless it was an emergency situation of some sort. I just wanted to know because I have heard it both ways before.
Now it truly is all over but the crying, I put it back together, put oil in it, changed the filter and plugs, ran it a little while on the starter and am about to try it. This is a nervous situation for me, way to much work and time if it doesn't work. I will be back on here in a little while telling you it threw a rod or it held.

munyanb

Well I fired it up, it ran very quiet, so quiet I could here the injectors ticking. The new plugs are in it, but it still misses at least one cylinder. I let it run about 15 minutes , even drove it around the block, but did not pass 2,000 rpms. going up hill it seemed to miss a little more. I did not lug it up the slight incline, made sure to stay in first and go slow.
As far as the miss goes, I suspect since the valve cover is barely on for some reason, and it is oil soaked, that the miss is coming from that. I hope it is. I knew the cover was not right , but its missing several bolts and has a huge gap that I can see, and oil just runs down the block. I guess I need to go through it and check the condition of the plug boots inside, hopefully I don't have to buy a plug wire rail or whatever that thing is. Other than that I can't see anything that could cause it to run so poorly. besides bad gas or clogged injectors.
Remember I said the oil pressure gauge was always at 40 then went past 40 when it started? Now the oil pressure has gone down to around 40 and the gauge goes down to around 20 when I only have the key on. The old filter was pretty heavy also. So that means it was clogged up, it doesn't make collapsed lifter noise though. Does it even have hydraulic lifters? I know an oil change will be needed very soon again, any suggestions? Any suggestions on anything? Oh and I'm not trying to gloat, like I said I never passed 2 G yet on rpms, and it only ran a little while, so I'm not convinced that it's good yet.

munyanb

Well I took the valve cover off, every single rocker arm is tight , all at once, and someone has used some sort of gasket maker that got hard and brittle, a brown rusty color. I have been seeing it throughout the engine, no wonder the oil filter was so heavy. So now I'm wondering if these things are all cranked down to tight or to try to make up for a collapsed lifter or something. I'm just trying to think what the guy before did and why, even though everything he did was exactly wrong. I'm going to search this forum for the answer to rocker adjustment, I have feeler gauges. I can easily see why people just change engines, but it's a shame because they are going away slowly.

munyanb

I found out that there is no valve lash adjustment, since it is in fact a hydraulic lifter. So that's why they are all tight, I guess I can start er up again and look at my rocker arm travel to see if the cam is good, From underneath it looked good, so maybe I am getting lucky here and the massive oil leak and possibly a bad plug boot or coil pack is the culprit. I'm not sure about the fuel delivery system , I had a lot of bolts simply missing and loose on the valve cover.

dave1123

There is no rocker adjustment. The bolts just hold the rocker pivots tight to the mounting bosses.

munyanb

OK it finally quit raining, so I went and cleaned up the valve cover, and head, extracted a few broken bolts , put it back together with new bolts in place and that thing leaks extremely still, not sure why , I have never had a problem with a valve cover before like this.
It runs much smoother , no knock still , but wants to run at 210. The electric fan never did come on, although I didn't turn on the AC and I see no buttons for towing , not saying it isn't there but I can't find it. There is still a miss, and the more it leaked oil the worse it seemed to get, but it did throw a code finally, it says system to lean bank one. To me that means the first three cylinders. Then the generic code says injector circuit on cylinder number three is open, and I hope I didn't make it happen, I had unplugged the second cylinder from the front to see if it made a difference and it really did not react strongly, it did but barely. When I unplugged the first one it almost quit. As a matter of fact I was messing with them before I started it and the third cylinder from front was left unplugged by accident, I plugged it back in and it seemed to run a little better. I guess I will clear the code and try it again without unplugging anything, but any advice on this would be appreciated. Like I said no knock still, but I don't want to run it to much down a cylinder and ruin something.

munyanb

the code did not show up again, so it was just where I had the injector unplugged and I'm guessing number two is not firing. is there any way to test this? why will it not throw a code for misfire, or bad coil pack?

munyanb

wall I rigged up a wire and vice grips to a spare spark plug, checked every cylinder for fire. Coincidentally the only one I could not see the very last one in the rear, I tried positioning a mirror and everything. So I put it back together, and ran it a little to burn any wetness from turning it over with no spark, unplugged the coinciding injector and no difference at all. I plugged it back in, no difference. Now I can no longer get it unplugged for some reason but anyway I let it run for about a minute, with everything the way it should be, then shut it down. I pulled the very rear plug, and it is black, a black that can be wiped off easily but black all over. I think I found the bad one. So is it a common thing for the coil packs to go out? and just one? is there any certain one that fails for any reason? Or is this still due to the unfixable oil leak?

munyanb

Oh by the way this thing tries to start with the coil packs completely off, probably dieseling from build up in that cylinder? Still no knock, but every time it makes the common 4.0 noises I get really scared lol

munyanb

I am tryuing to get this coil pack apart without destroying it, is it possible? can it be opened and looked at to see if it has bad wires or something? It does seem to have oil in the cracks/seems on that end

munyanb

Are people mad that I did something that usually a machine shop is paid for? There is plenty of other work for machine shops, if business is slow it's because people have no money. Support your local economies and you will get it back unless you are a loner in that like me. I noticed that no one even looks at this post now, is the reason I ask that. Is it just to long of a post? I thought people would be happy about the possibility of saving more jeep 4.0 liter engines, they will run out eventually if people just keep scrapping them because of not being able to afford expensive work that sometimes they can possibly get around.