bond-jamesbond

EASY!!! (for the p0320 trouble code) After cutting the crap out of my hands and inventing new curse words removing the old Crankshaft Position Sensor from my 2003 Grand Cherokee 4.0, I could not get the bolt back in with multiple extensions and swivels.
I figured there MUST be an easier way, something the stealership is not letting on about.
Fact is, if you go through the firewall under the dash it is EASY!!
Here's how to do it:
1) Remove the plastic bottom panel directly under the gauges. It simply snaps up and out.
2) Locate the 4 10mm bolts that hold the lower plastic panel under the steering column and remove them along with a few phillips head screws as well to free up the panel. Remove.
3) Look behind the console and you will see a small plastic "L" shaped duct that blows air to your feet. Snap it out of its position and remove the phillips screw holding it from under/behind (or cut the plastic flange with a razorknife halfway if the screw is hard to get at - takes a shorty phillips screwdriver. This way you can still snap it back on.)
4) Pull the carpet back and tuck it under the gas pedal.
5) You will see an oval metal plate that the shifter cable runs through as it passes through the firewall. Remove the 2 10mm nuts and pull the plate back.
6) VIOLA! There is the crankshaft position sensor staring you right in the face through the hole in the firewall you have exposed!
7) Insert 11mm socket with extension and remove/replace bolt with ease.

You guys are welcome to buy me a beer when we cross trails

jediknight

First of all I want to thank the many WJ owners who have taken the time to share their experiences repairing their rides. Like many of you I have a 2003 Laredo that was randomly turning off on me, twice at a stop sign, once slowing to make a right turn and another while pulling into my driveway. My Grand Cherokee also stuttered a couple of times while accelerating, almost wanting to turn off but never did as I kept on accelerating. I checked for codes but none were thrown and I didn’t get the check engine light either. Upon reading your posts and possible causes I narrowed it down to 4 probable causes and sensors. The throttle body maybe needed cleaning or it was either the throttle body sensor, idle air controller (listed as idle speed control on parts websites), the crankshaft sensor or the camshaft sensor. As I don’t enjoy getting ripped off by the dealer I decided to try to repair this on my own. I could have replaced one at a time but when you factor in the time needed to test drive each repair with at least a few days driving I decided to replace all of them. From what I’ve read, these seem to go bad at around the mileage that I have which is 70,000, so I figured what the heck. I bought the parts at wholesalemopar dot com (I’m not advertising for them but they seem to have the best prices and their customer service was first rate) for $265 not including shipping. I could have gone the cheaper route and bought them at my local autozone but I kept reading that these sensors are better oem than aftermarket. The camshaft sensor was a piece of cake, just two bolts and replace. The throttle body sensor and air speed control were also easy but required taking the throttle body off. This was very easy to do and really anyone can do this, you just need the right tools, throttle body cleaner and about an hour tops. The crankshaft was the PITA to do. When I took of the throttle body it looked pretty clean as was the idle air controller so I felt that these were probably not the causes. I knew that more than likely it was going to be the crankshaft and of course the most difficult to do. Many thanks to jamesbond and others for his post about gaining access through the floor under the drivers side vents. Some have found accessing the bolt from under the car easier, some have had to drop the transmission a couple of inches but for me it was easier to go from the inside. I’m not going to go through each step since it is well documented here, however I will add links and pics that I took that might make things clearer. Over all it wasn’t easy, it took me the better part of 4 hours just for the crankshaft but I was going slow and making darn sure I didn’t lose that bolt in the bell housing as I had read some had done. I did but a small magnet and attached it to the socket when I pulled the bolt off. I used masking tape to keep the bolt on the socket when putting the bolt back on. I also used the string to guide the sensor to and from the bell housing. The one thing I wasn’t able to do was pull the plug from the drivers side, it is attached to a plastic thing and I couldn’t get the screwdriver to pry it off. The old one is disconnected but still hanging there, I may just cut it off. Good luck to all who try this, very doable but you need patience and time. I wish I could tell you which one of these actually did the trick but I can’t but 150 miles later I haven’t had a problem so I think that I’m still ahead even though I spent a bit more on oem parts.

jediknight

more pics. the last is upside down. there is a shield on top of the sensor that i lost and never put back on. The sensor was removed from the engine compartment. this was a very tight squeeze, scratched up my arms a bit, you'll have to do it by feel with your fingers because you won't be able to see the sensor when you're grabbing it. my camara was small enough to get in the tight space so it acutally looks like there is a lot of room but there isn't.

dave1123

Nice write up and pics, you guys! I hope I never have to do this, because I've lost a lot of feeling in my fingertips. I almost have to SEE the hole to get a bolt back in.

One of the problems with getting old.

ol"blue

X2 Dave!