2000 42RE No Reverse
#31
Old fart with a wrench
Now THAT'S nice to know. Thanks for the update. I'll have to keep you in mind. I've got a friend with a Chevy AWD van that's got a problem with his reverse. It's slipping badly, but after it gets rolling, it's okay. I'm not sure of the year or the tranny, but it might be a 700R4, which I've rebuilt before. That one gave me an education, because it's got a lot more parts than a THM 350. I'll get back to you when I find out which it is in a PM.
#32
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Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
#34
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Year: 2000
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#35
Old fart with a wrench
Be very careful with the transfer case. It doesn't have a good center of balance. I tried to cage mine and it flipped my jack over. You may have to strong-arm it .
#36
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removing the OD unit
Hi All,
I'm in the same boat, I have no reverse on my 2000 WJ & I found pieces of the snap ring in the pan. I am just about to remove the OD unit from the 42RE trans, but after watching this
I'm concerned there is pressure from the 600lb spring pushing against the trans.
As I'm loosening the 7 11mm bolts, the OD unit is coming away from the trans and the bolts are tight as I turn then out. I'm hoping the OD unit won't shoot away and damage something or take my head off.
Is that normal or am I being paranoid?
-mike
I'm in the same boat, I have no reverse on my 2000 WJ & I found pieces of the snap ring in the pan. I am just about to remove the OD unit from the 42RE trans, but after watching this
As I'm loosening the 7 11mm bolts, the OD unit is coming away from the trans and the bolts are tight as I turn then out. I'm hoping the OD unit won't shoot away and damage something or take my head off.
Is that normal or am I being paranoid?
-mike
#37
Old fart with a wrench
No, I don't think you're being paranoid. I think you are right, BOTH retainer snap rings are broken and you have full pressure of the spring pushing it apart. JMHO, but I think it's time to pull the whole trans and take it to the pros.
One of my friends was pressing a rear axle bearing on, something he'd done lots of times, but the bearing shattered. A piece of the race sliced his forearm, cutting his artery. If there wasn't someone else there, he could have bled to death! It's never too paranoid to be cautious.
As my brother used to say, "Just because you're paranoid, doesn't mean they're NOT out to get you!"
One of my friends was pressing a rear axle bearing on, something he'd done lots of times, but the bearing shattered. A piece of the race sliced his forearm, cutting his artery. If there wasn't someone else there, he could have bled to death! It's never too paranoid to be cautious.
As my brother used to say, "Just because you're paranoid, doesn't mean they're NOT out to get you!"
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#38
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I have a plan. I'm going to walk this sucker off nice and slow. Went to Lowes and bought 6" 3/8 threaded rod and some nuts. I replaced, one at a time, the factory bolts with the rod and spun on the nuts finger tight, 4 in total.
Its going to take some time and a lot of patience, but I think this may work. My concern now is if the rods won't long enough to relieve the spring pressure. If not, I'll go and get longer rods and start over.
We'll see what happens!
2 on the lower end
2 on the upper
At the moment, all the factory bolts are out, and I'll start the separation process soon.
Its going to take some time and a lot of patience, but I think this may work. My concern now is if the rods won't long enough to relieve the spring pressure. If not, I'll go and get longer rods and start over.
We'll see what happens!
2 on the lower end
2 on the upper
At the moment, all the factory bolts are out, and I'll start the separation process soon.
Last edited by mjm07771; 08-31-2015 at 01:42 PM.
#39
Old fart with a wrench
Just remember the threaded rod is only grade 2 at best! Be F**** careful!
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Will do. I'll make sure to keep vital parts of my body outside the danger zone (AKA the potential flight path) I'll keep you posted on how it works out.
-mike
-mike
#41
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UPDATE
I got it out. The process was a PITA since this was my first time, but its done.
Didn't take nearly as long as I thought. Took my time and turned each nut 1 full turn as I went around. Suddenly, I found all the nuts were loose. Apparently, there is another large retaining ring that uses the fingers of the steel stack to hold the big spring in place. Hindsight is 20/20 they say!
Next step, contact trans shop to get it rebuilt.
BTW: I found 2 more big pieces of the snap ring. 1 larger piece sitting on top of the valve body and the other in the OD unit where the parking rod sits.
-mike
Didn't take nearly as long as I thought. Took my time and turned each nut 1 full turn as I went around. Suddenly, I found all the nuts were loose. Apparently, there is another large retaining ring that uses the fingers of the steel stack to hold the big spring in place. Hindsight is 20/20 they say!
Next step, contact trans shop to get it rebuilt.
BTW: I found 2 more big pieces of the snap ring. 1 larger piece sitting on top of the valve body and the other in the OD unit where the parking rod sits.
-mike
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Getting the OD Unit seated
The OD unit is back from the trans shop in less than 24 hours, only cost $150 for the rebuild. Now I'm trying to get the OD unit seated against the trans. for the re-attach
There is about an inch maybe two of space and I can't get it to fully seat. Is it just a matter of aligning the spines of the shaft to the OD unit, or is there something else?
-mike
There is about an inch maybe two of space and I can't get it to fully seat. Is it just a matter of aligning the spines of the shaft to the OD unit, or is there something else?
-mike
#43
Old fart with a wrench
If you watched that video, You'll have noticed the splines of the clutch drum and the sprag unit have to be aligned BEFORE the spring is compressed. I think you should take it back to the rebuilder and tell him to make it right. They need to insert a dummy shaft before they compress the spring to put in the snap rings.
If you've ever changed a clutch, you know what I mean about aligning the disc with the transmission shaft.
If you've ever changed a clutch, you know what I mean about aligning the disc with the transmission shaft.
#44
I have the same problem - no reverse and no engine braking. But the snap ring is intact.
2002 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0l. It will push itself a little rearward but give it some gas and it just rev's up like neutral. It does not have any engine braking when manual downshifting to 1st. Has the symtoms of a broken snap ring for rear band and the O/D operations. I took the pan off, 1/8 inch of sludge on magnet but no metal. Looking up at the snap ring for the rear, look to be intact and no cracks on it. I adjusted the rear band (72 in lbs, then back off 4 turns) I actually checked how many turns it took go back in to begin to have some resistance. When in 5 turns and I had to go further to get 72 inch lbs. Then backed it back out 4 turns. So it was loose and probably has wear. The tranny has been rebuilt in the past before purchased. I'm trying to get my daughter to get the paperwork to tell me how many miles since that rebuild.
so, I'm still thinking that rear band is not engaging. What else would cause this? forward gears shift as they have, a little rough but I figured that was the result of the rebuild.
I did find out the rebuild was done by Aamco in 2010 with 115,600 miles. The car now has 180,614 miles
2002 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0l. It will push itself a little rearward but give it some gas and it just rev's up like neutral. It does not have any engine braking when manual downshifting to 1st. Has the symtoms of a broken snap ring for rear band and the O/D operations. I took the pan off, 1/8 inch of sludge on magnet but no metal. Looking up at the snap ring for the rear, look to be intact and no cracks on it. I adjusted the rear band (72 in lbs, then back off 4 turns) I actually checked how many turns it took go back in to begin to have some resistance. When in 5 turns and I had to go further to get 72 inch lbs. Then backed it back out 4 turns. So it was loose and probably has wear. The tranny has been rebuilt in the past before purchased. I'm trying to get my daughter to get the paperwork to tell me how many miles since that rebuild.
so, I'm still thinking that rear band is not engaging. What else would cause this? forward gears shift as they have, a little rough but I figured that was the result of the rebuild.
I did find out the rebuild was done by Aamco in 2010 with 115,600 miles. The car now has 180,614 miles
Last edited by a2wheelerte; 09-19-2015 at 06:09 PM. Reason: Update -
#45
OK, after much searching, I'm thinking that the snap ring that is suspect is located in the OD unit. And I can not see it anywhere. So I have to just go ahead and pull the transfer case and then the OD unit and see what shows up.
Is that correct?
Is that correct?