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#1 |
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Newbie
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Hi,
I have a 1996 4.0 Grand Cherokee.Last night while sat at traffic lights it cut out, (all lights etc still working, inc ignition lights) and would not restart.Wont even turn over.The Starter relay in the fuse box is clicking,but thats it.The lights dont dim when trying to start it,battery is up.Even tried boost starting it off another motor.Any ideas? I am at a loss.Cheers |
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#2 |
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Member
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If is automatic, move the shifter thru all the gears and try starting in park and neutral. The no starter issue may be the neutral start switch. You have to get the starter going before looking at other problems.
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#3 |
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Member
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Well. rethinking this, it may not be the start switch. Since you hear the starter relay clicking the switch would not be the problem. Try it any way and see what happens. It may be a bad relay.
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#4 |
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Newbie
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Hi ET, Have tried that, and its just the same.Cant understand how it just cut out? it literally just stopped as though I had turned theey key off.Everything is normal except it wont turn over! Went to my local Jeep dealer just now to pick their brains they said disconnect the door module....done that, still the same. Any other suggestions? Will try anything.
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#5 |
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Newbie
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*have swapped the starter relay its just the same*
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#6 |
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Member
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Ok, you need to test the starting circuit to see if it works. You will need a helper for this also a voltmeter. Go to the starter and you will see 3 terminals; 2 large and 1 small.
Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the solenoid terminal. It is the small terminal. Connect the black lead to a good ground. Have your helper try to start the engine. Look at the voltmeter and see what voltage, if any. you are getting. If it is ok, you should read battery voltage. Check you battery voltage before you do this so you know what voltage to look for. Also, check voltage at the large terminal that connects the thick red cable that runs from the battery to the starter. You should read battery voltage also. If voltage is present at both, you have a starter-solenoid problem. If no voltage to the solenoid, you have a problem in the starting circuit. You can test the starter by connecting a thick wire to the 2 large terminals. The starter motor will turn but the starter will not engage if the starter is good. You can test the solenoid by connecting the wire between the battery terminal and the solenoid terminal. If the solenoid is good the starter will engage and the engine will turn. Leave the key off so the engine does not start. See the picture. Wear goggles or safety glasses if you do these tests. You will get some electrical sparking at the terminals. Gloves also would be good. If you do not understand this, post a question before you do it. The picture shows what to look for. |
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#7 |
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Newbie
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Update
I went to the GC this morning, and thought I would go through what ET had said about the starter circuit.I gave it a try before I started on it, and it started??? Has been fine all day ......any ideas? Well happy to have it running, just worried it might do it again. |
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#8 |
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Member
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It is hard to guess at what is the problem. It could be the NSS, an electrical issue, moisture somewhere or something mechanical in the starter solenoid. You will have to wait and see if it happens again.
Here is an emergency start procedure if you get a no crank with starter again and get stranded. Carry a short piece of #10 or #12 gauge wire with you. To start, turn you ignition key to the on position. Remove the engine starter relay. Identify the socket for pin 30 and pin 87. Now with the wire you connect the two. The best way to do this is to hold the wire on pin 87 and touch the other end to pin 30. Do this fast to eliminate sparking. The wire is your start switch. When the engine starts remove the wire. Be aware that pin 30 is ALWAYS HOT WITH 12 VOLTS. This sends electrical power directly to the solenoid bypassing the starting circuit. If your starter is good, it will crank the engine. Have someone behind the wheel to be on the safe side. If you do not feel comfortable doing this, don't do it. Do the test procedure to find out what is the problem. |
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#9 |
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Junior Member
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I have seen people make reference to pin xx before and have no idea what this refers to. Does anyone know where there is a diag or list of these locations?
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#10 |
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Member
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Some electrical items use pin numbers to sort out the wiring and make connections easy to identify. The starter relay has pin numbers next to the male prong. See this picture for a commonly used automotive relay. The socket may not have the pin numbers but you identify it by the male connector. The relay can only be installed one way.
The PCM has about 60-70 pin numbers and each goes to a different connection. Even a simple switch may have pin numbers. I worked with one a few days ago that was marked 1-2-3. It was an ON-OFF-ON switch. |
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#11 |
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Newbie
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having a problem with misfire, cutting out, stalling. have replaced distibrator, rotor, cap coil oxygen sensors, catylitic converter, muffler, alternator, crank positioning sensor, ASD etc. and still getting a 43 code on dask board. help!!! thanks
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#12 | |
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Member
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Quote:
That code appears to be a big problem. You have replaced many of the often suggested parts. See this article. Only thing I can suggest is test your spark plug wires. They should read less than 25,000 ohms. If they are old you might try replacing them and see if it helps. Good luck hope you find the cause. |
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#13 |
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Newbie
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thanks for your reply. i just found a bare wire on the harness from the crank positioning switch also replaced fuel pump rely. also called the mechanic that replaced computer w/i the year and asked about warranty, any other thoughts.....
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