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Next on the list is the cooling system. Have everything just need time to do it.
Same here - I decided to upgrade my radiator to a HD version since I'm pulling a load. My stock radiator just doesn't cool enough water fast enough. While I'm at it, I figured I'd replace the water pump and thermostat as preventative maintenance. The parts are sitting in the garage...
I've noticed the ride quality has degraded in the last month or so. Road bumps are more apparent and bumpy corners cause some sway bounce. I've performed the "bounce test" in the garage and these shocks fail the test. I've contacted RC about it to find out if these N2 shocks have failed prematurely or if it's the expected result after five months of city use. Hopefully the former.
I've also finally got an OEM fog light switch that I plan to wire my PIAA driving lights up to.
I still need to replace my radiator, water pump, and thermostat (and unplug my heater core), but I've got a back injury that will slow that work for now...
Hey. You stole my dream XJ. Give it back but if you don't mind, I will be using the picture of your build to show my mechanic my goals for my jeep. It's sitting bone stock right now because I'm in high school but I want to build mine to be for camping and exploration driving because I'm sick of the city (I live in Los Angeles, California) but I love going to the Sierra Nevada's and know so many trails and secluded camping areas there. I don't plan on rock climbing with my XJ, but for what you're doing with yours. Hopefully I can get this job at the local Jeep dealership to get some income to do these mods (after I fix everything that is on its way to broken)!
Nice build man! We have very similar set ups although you do have more toys bolted to the bumper and roof. I am also rocking a 5 speed manual and am about 2 weeks away from dropping in 4.10 gears. I love your stealth winch mount, keep up the clean build.
And what's the bounce test? I need to test my shocks
The bounce test is to see how bouncy your shocks are. When you push down on the vehicle at each corner (individually) and then let up, the vehicle should just come back up to the resting position and stop. If it continues to bounce, then that particular shock is no longer doing its job properly.
The bounce test is to see how bouncy your shocks are. When you push down on the vehicle at each corner (individually) and then let up, the vehicle should just come back up to the resting position and stop. If it continues to bounce, then that particular shock is no longer doing its job properly.
I need to do that it's way too easy to bottom the suspension out and the ride is oddly super rough right now at stock height
I've finally received an OEM fog light switch which I've managed to wire up to my PIAA driving lights. It was a rather simple job thanks to Crispy's information on the factory harness wire colors:
Originally Posted by Crispy
If your rig (97+) has the factory fog light pigtail behind the switch blank you can get an OEM switch, and wire it up like this:
Orange - This is the illumination wire, you can tap into another orange wire in the switch panel
Light Blue - This is the switch output, send this wire to the input wire of the foglight relay.
Violet - Connect to a fused 12v, or ignition source. If you'd like similar stock operation, you can connect this to the parking light output so that if you leave the switch on it will only get power when lights are on.
Black - Connect to a ground
Make sure you run a relay to your fog lights if you go this route, the oem switch CANNOT handle the current that aftermarket lights pull. I'd also run some 12g or at least 14g wire.
And for Jeep since they had the illumination already prewired.
I originally put my add-a-fuse in slot 8 which provided my switch power only when the ignition was ON. I decided to move the add-a-fuse to slot 7 which provides the switch power whenever the parking lights are on which is also the factory slot for the fog relays.
I'm still working with Rough Country on my shock situation and they're having me check the shocks for leaks and also all bushings. I did find the rear sway bar link bushings to be cracked and quite soft, so I've ordered some replacements which should arrive before the weekend.
While checking the LCA bushings, I noticed I smacked both axle mounts pretty good (at least once!):
In addition, I'm considering replacing all four control arms with adjustable ones to fix my castor and set me up if I ever need to get a bigger lift. I'm just not sure which ones to go with. I'm leaning towards the RE3715 LCAs and the UCAs from Rusty's or the cheaper RC set.
I bought a new Mopar HD radiator (part #52080104AC) back in September and I finally got it installed along with a new water pump and thermostat. My heater is now blowing hot air and I'm consistently running below 200F.
The needle is finally sitting on the left side of 210F!
And ODB Fusion is reading under 200F at high speeds, too.
I bought a new Mopar HD radiator (part #52080104AC) back in September and I finally got it installed along with a new water pump and thermostat. My heater is now blowing hot air and I'm consistently running below 200F.
The needle is finally sitting on the left side of 210F!
And ODB Fusion is reading under 200F at high speeds, too.
11-27-2015, 09:02 AM
but if you don't mind, I will be using the picture of your build to show my mechanic my goals for my jeep. It's sitting bone stock right now because I'm in high school but I want to build mine to be for camping and exploration driving because I'm sick of the city (I live in Los Angeles, California) but I love going to the Sierra Nevada's and know so many trails and secluded camping areas there. I don't plan on rock climbing with my XJ, but for what you're doing with yours. Hopefully I can get this job at the local Jeep dealership to get some income to do these mods (after I fix everything that is on its way to broken)!
it's way too easy to bottom the suspension out and the ride is oddly super rough right now at stock height
