Welp, here 'goes... Project slow n' steady...
#272
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
w00t w00t!
Wife just messaged me and said the pump is in.... FedEX Tracking info confirms it. FINALLY I'll have my Jeep back... ya know... after some work.
My wife's car is comfy, sporty, and quick, but I really miss my Jeep.
Wife just messaged me and said the pump is in.... FedEX Tracking info confirms it. FINALLY I'll have my Jeep back... ya know... after some work.
My wife's car is comfy, sporty, and quick, but I really miss my Jeep.
#274
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
#276
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
DONE! Got home from work about 1830 (that's 6:30 pm for those of you who aren't familiar with zulu), got changed and started working on it about 1900. Took me a little while, 'cause despite it barely even being able to run, I needed to get it up on the ramps - 'cause it's a LOT easier to do if you can sit up under the jeep and do it - even at my size of 6'1" and 270 lbs, I have just enough lift that when I put it up on the ramps, I have just enough room to sit up and work over the axle.
So I jumpered the relay port and used the pump's own power to pump out the fuel. Pumped out 15 gallons... took for freakin' ever. I was actually about to empty a 5 gallon can into my wife's tank WITH the stupid "self-venting" spout on it before the next can was even half-way full. I was also able to unbox the new pump and get everything ready while the NEXT one was filling.
This pump was toast, for sure. VISUALLY, it looked fine. The sock was still attached to the inlet of the pump, but was clocked out of place - not that it would make any difference. But the rubber cone at the end of the return line that seats the pump, had come off... not sure if that happened when I was removing the pump or before hand. In any case, I needed to fish it out. Luckily my hand just barely fit. (I had to grip things with the tips of my fingers to be able to pull it back out). Not only did I find the cone, but I also found remnants of the original sock in the bottom of the tank. So I pulled everything out to make sure I didn't have a bunch of debris floating around in the bottom of the tank anymore.
I'll definitely say, the Bosch 69302 unit is MUCH smaller that the OE unit and the Carter unit I had. At first, when I pulled it out of the box, I about started cussing thinking they sent me the wrong part. Luckily, I looked in the supplied parts package because there is an adapter to make up for the smaller stature. It didn't come with a sock, but luckily, I was able to use the one from the Carter unit (after cleaning it just to be safe), but it did come with a pigtail plug with a clip retainer that made wiring it up really easy.
Had to kinda hold your tongue the right way to get everything into place and secured correctly, but once it's in there, it's good.
One thing I DID notice, was that when I installed the carter unit, I went full retard and put the stupid o-ring between the lock ring and the pump assembly, instead of between the pump assembly and the fuel pump assy (which explains why I bent up the original lock ring when I was installing the carter) So I made sure to correct THAT mistake upon installing the new one.
Got everything back in and secured. This pump is sooo quiet, you can barely hear it spool up! MUCH MUCH better than the Carter unit that sounded like something was grinding inside the pump from the very first time I spooled it.
I attempted to find a vehicle I KNEW had good fuel pressure, find out WHAT the fuel pressure was, and use my gauge to test if the gauge was accurate... but that opportunity didn't present itself. SO, the only thing I could think of was to use it as a tire gauge and compare it to my other tire gauges. The other three gauges read consistently at 30 PSI with the same pressure and my fuel pressure tester read about 2-3 psi low... so I kept that in mind when testing the new pressure.... here's how it went:
Idles smooth as butter now. Better than it ever has since I've owned it with no miss!
So I jumpered the relay port and used the pump's own power to pump out the fuel. Pumped out 15 gallons... took for freakin' ever. I was actually about to empty a 5 gallon can into my wife's tank WITH the stupid "self-venting" spout on it before the next can was even half-way full. I was also able to unbox the new pump and get everything ready while the NEXT one was filling.
This pump was toast, for sure. VISUALLY, it looked fine. The sock was still attached to the inlet of the pump, but was clocked out of place - not that it would make any difference. But the rubber cone at the end of the return line that seats the pump, had come off... not sure if that happened when I was removing the pump or before hand. In any case, I needed to fish it out. Luckily my hand just barely fit. (I had to grip things with the tips of my fingers to be able to pull it back out). Not only did I find the cone, but I also found remnants of the original sock in the bottom of the tank. So I pulled everything out to make sure I didn't have a bunch of debris floating around in the bottom of the tank anymore.
I'll definitely say, the Bosch 69302 unit is MUCH smaller that the OE unit and the Carter unit I had. At first, when I pulled it out of the box, I about started cussing thinking they sent me the wrong part. Luckily, I looked in the supplied parts package because there is an adapter to make up for the smaller stature. It didn't come with a sock, but luckily, I was able to use the one from the Carter unit (after cleaning it just to be safe), but it did come with a pigtail plug with a clip retainer that made wiring it up really easy.
Had to kinda hold your tongue the right way to get everything into place and secured correctly, but once it's in there, it's good.
One thing I DID notice, was that when I installed the carter unit, I went full retard and put the stupid o-ring between the lock ring and the pump assembly, instead of between the pump assembly and the fuel pump assy (which explains why I bent up the original lock ring when I was installing the carter) So I made sure to correct THAT mistake upon installing the new one.
Got everything back in and secured. This pump is sooo quiet, you can barely hear it spool up! MUCH MUCH better than the Carter unit that sounded like something was grinding inside the pump from the very first time I spooled it.
I attempted to find a vehicle I KNEW had good fuel pressure, find out WHAT the fuel pressure was, and use my gauge to test if the gauge was accurate... but that opportunity didn't present itself. SO, the only thing I could think of was to use it as a tire gauge and compare it to my other tire gauges. The other three gauges read consistently at 30 PSI with the same pressure and my fuel pressure tester read about 2-3 psi low... so I kept that in mind when testing the new pressure.... here's how it went:
Idles smooth as butter now. Better than it ever has since I've owned it with no miss!
Last edited by Basslicks; 04-30-2016 at 12:16 PM. Reason: For my records: BOSCH pump installed on 4/29/2016 @ 241,110 miles.
#277
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
Interesting factoid;
That BOSCH that I pulled out was the OE pump from the factory! I'm actually pretty impressed by the fact that the original pump lasted over 200k miles... not even mad it started giving me problems! Now the OTHER one... well, that's a bit disappointing.
Pics of the pumps:
Stamping on the BOSCH pump:
BOSCH 9580810 019
12V (927) 170-09 Made in USA 31
8933003591 1k09
Stamping on the Carter unit:
Carter
Thats. It. Nothing more, nothing less. Carter. Cool... soooo my pump could have been in a batch of 50 that an QC tech decided to half-*** on his last day and these guys would NEVER EVEN KNOW because they don't even put a freakin' serial number on their pumps. Cool. Pathetic.
...aaaaand a little bonus for you, I couldn't see where I left my safety glasses at so I ended up running over them... d'oh!
That BOSCH that I pulled out was the OE pump from the factory! I'm actually pretty impressed by the fact that the original pump lasted over 200k miles... not even mad it started giving me problems! Now the OTHER one... well, that's a bit disappointing.
Pics of the pumps:
Stamping on the BOSCH pump:
BOSCH 9580810 019
12V (927) 170-09 Made in USA 31
8933003591 1k09
Stamping on the Carter unit:
Carter
Thats. It. Nothing more, nothing less. Carter. Cool... soooo my pump could have been in a batch of 50 that an QC tech decided to half-*** on his last day and these guys would NEVER EVEN KNOW because they don't even put a freakin' serial number on their pumps. Cool. Pathetic.
...aaaaand a little bonus for you, I couldn't see where I left my safety glasses at so I ended up running over them... d'oh!
Last edited by Basslicks; 04-30-2016 at 12:54 PM.
#278
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
Pulled the (non-c-clip) D35 out w/ a bad ring and pinion. Removed the ring gear and reinstalled the carrier to help keep the axle aligned in the tube. Also removed the drums and backing plate.... won't need that on a trailing axle.
Yup, that's right, trailing axle.
My 4x8 utility trailer that looks like it was found at the bottom of the Bermuda Triangle, still has the stock little 2x2 square tubing axle with the STUPID tiny little 5 lug wheels and tires. First of all, trailer tires SUCK. They don't last very long, they're thin as crap, and since these are the 5 lug, small diameter wheels (seriously, I think these are like 10" wheels), the ONLY ones I can find these in now are the galvanized - which cost more. Really, for what you pay for them, they just aren't worth it.
So, even though the bolt pattern on these hubs are 5 on 4.5, the axle is nowhere NEAR wide enough to put larger tires on it. I figured the busted turdy5 would do nicely.
Well, as it turns out... Jeep luck strikes again.
The minimum distance between the two tires was 49"
The maximum distance from frame rail to frame rail on the trailer - you guessed it, 49"
So, I could try to put these on... but they would rub... probably really really bad.
I would put some autoparts store 1/4" spacers on it, but I'm already pushing the limits of the lugs on it with the aluminum wheels.
My only two options are to find some 15" trailer wheels, or find a set of wheel spacers. I'm supposed to meet a guy about an hour away with 3 trailer wheels for me for FREE. Hopefully they're the right bolt pattern.. if not... back to square one.
Yup, that's right, trailing axle.
My 4x8 utility trailer that looks like it was found at the bottom of the Bermuda Triangle, still has the stock little 2x2 square tubing axle with the STUPID tiny little 5 lug wheels and tires. First of all, trailer tires SUCK. They don't last very long, they're thin as crap, and since these are the 5 lug, small diameter wheels (seriously, I think these are like 10" wheels), the ONLY ones I can find these in now are the galvanized - which cost more. Really, for what you pay for them, they just aren't worth it.
So, even though the bolt pattern on these hubs are 5 on 4.5, the axle is nowhere NEAR wide enough to put larger tires on it. I figured the busted turdy5 would do nicely.
Well, as it turns out... Jeep luck strikes again.
The minimum distance between the two tires was 49"
The maximum distance from frame rail to frame rail on the trailer - you guessed it, 49"
So, I could try to put these on... but they would rub... probably really really bad.
I would put some autoparts store 1/4" spacers on it, but I'm already pushing the limits of the lugs on it with the aluminum wheels.
My only two options are to find some 15" trailer wheels, or find a set of wheel spacers. I'm supposed to meet a guy about an hour away with 3 trailer wheels for me for FREE. Hopefully they're the right bolt pattern.. if not... back to square one.
#280
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
lol... yeah, but I kinda can't complain too hardcore. I got mine for free. It's nothin' special really. It's similar to (or exactly the same as) the Harbor Freight foldable 4x8 trailers. Only, this is a really old version... instead of having an a-frame tongue, it's a single bar. Makes it all kinds of sketchy when you're loading things into the trailer. Gotta make sure you center your loads, 'cause if you're heavier in one corner, it twists
I really need to do some work to this thing, but time is not always on my side. I think at some point I'm going to take all the wood off (again), grind down the joints of on the frame and weld them. This thing is bolted together and pretty rusty so, while it's never going to be a hard-core heavy-duty trailer, having welded joints will provide much more strength than loosened-up bolt-joints.
OH... and eventually, I need to replace the rear crossbeam... it's currently a landscaping timber
I really need to do some work to this thing, but time is not always on my side. I think at some point I'm going to take all the wood off (again), grind down the joints of on the frame and weld them. This thing is bolted together and pretty rusty so, while it's never going to be a hard-core heavy-duty trailer, having welded joints will provide much more strength than loosened-up bolt-joints.
OH... and eventually, I need to replace the rear crossbeam... it's currently a landscaping timber
Last edited by Basslicks; 05-14-2018 at 03:10 AM.
#281
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
About had a panic attack this morning. JUST installed the new fuel pump last friday night (after JUST replacing the fuel pump 3 weeks prior), and on the way to work this morning, I made a left turn and the Jeep DIED! My first immediate thought was "oh great... not ANOTHER one!"
Then I looked at the fuel gauge and saw it was just barely hovering over the "E" mark. Started it back up (after an extra turn of the key and a few extra cranks) and it ran fine. Apparently there was so little fuel in the tank that it sloshed PAST the pickup on the pump and starved it.
Didn't realized I was that low on gas... then I remembered I adjusted the resistor plate on the sender for more accuracy... WELP, IT WORKED!
Then I looked at the fuel gauge and saw it was just barely hovering over the "E" mark. Started it back up (after an extra turn of the key and a few extra cranks) and it ran fine. Apparently there was so little fuel in the tank that it sloshed PAST the pickup on the pump and starved it.
Didn't realized I was that low on gas... then I remembered I adjusted the resistor plate on the sender for more accuracy... WELP, IT WORKED!
#282
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Capac, Mi
Posts: 1,127
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
lmao.
My trailer was also free, i have all of $20 into it. i still need to get it weighed and then get it registered. the frame on mine is very very heavy duty, i will be cutting all the wood off and redoing it. and getting bigger flares so i can run either a 30 or 31 inch tire.
My trailer was also free, i have all of $20 into it. i still need to get it weighed and then get it registered. the frame on mine is very very heavy duty, i will be cutting all the wood off and redoing it. and getting bigger flares so i can run either a 30 or 31 inch tire.
#283
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
Well... said "goodbye" to my last Made In USA Craftsman wrench the other day. This one, I had since I was about 8 years old. BUT, alas, I stripped the mechanism in it. Dern bolt was just too stubborn and didn't like the cheater pipe on it. I really need to get another breaker bar so I can save my ratchets.
Before when I did that, the counter clerk replaced it with a brand new China-made unit. This time, the clerk (different clerk) reached into a tool chest with a bunch of different wrenches in it and handed me a refurbished model... still doesn't have "USA" stamped on the underside, but the ratchet sounds better than the brand new Chinese unit I got before. If they're refurbished domestically, I'll break my other one just to have another good one! lol
In other news, I was potentially about to go on a night ride one evening, so I decided to wire up the 100w knock-off KC lights I had. Installed them on the bar and they look decent, albeit lonely, but I need to redo the wiring. Hack-job wiring just isn't gonna cut it with 100 watts...well... 200 watts total.
I also "plucked" a dual-diaphragm booster from my parts Jeep... complete with master cylinder and prop valve. It's on the list now
Last, but certainly not least - I relocated my CB radio. Haven't had the chance to run the cable and wires to it, but it's up there. I definitely like it there a LOT better than down by the shifter. It's a lot cleaner looking and the speaker is in a much better spot for actually being able to HEAR it.
Before when I did that, the counter clerk replaced it with a brand new China-made unit. This time, the clerk (different clerk) reached into a tool chest with a bunch of different wrenches in it and handed me a refurbished model... still doesn't have "USA" stamped on the underside, but the ratchet sounds better than the brand new Chinese unit I got before. If they're refurbished domestically, I'll break my other one just to have another good one! lol
In other news, I was potentially about to go on a night ride one evening, so I decided to wire up the 100w knock-off KC lights I had. Installed them on the bar and they look decent, albeit lonely, but I need to redo the wiring. Hack-job wiring just isn't gonna cut it with 100 watts...well... 200 watts total.
I also "plucked" a dual-diaphragm booster from my parts Jeep... complete with master cylinder and prop valve. It's on the list now
Last, but certainly not least - I relocated my CB radio. Haven't had the chance to run the cable and wires to it, but it's up there. I definitely like it there a LOT better than down by the shifter. It's a lot cleaner looking and the speaker is in a much better spot for actually being able to HEAR it.
Last edited by Basslicks; 05-13-2016 at 03:21 PM.
#284
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Miami, fl
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You should really into the harbor freight ratchets...idk how close is to you but the Ratchet with the 1/4-3/8 ends with the extended part is AMAZING!!!! They become your cheater bar
This one...
http://t.harborfreight.com/14-in-x-3....google.com%2F
I bought two and yes I've broke them but I walk into a harbor freight and a brand one out the door no questions asked...
I beat on these tools a lot and they take a lot of what I put them through....
Oh and the 1/2 one is beast as well...
This one...
http://t.harborfreight.com/14-in-x-3....google.com%2F
I bought two and yes I've broke them but I walk into a harbor freight and a brand one out the door no questions asked...
I beat on these tools a lot and they take a lot of what I put them through....
Oh and the 1/2 one is beast as well...
Last edited by 88whitecomanche; 05-13-2016 at 04:25 PM.
#285
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
You should really into the harbor freight ratchets...idk how close is to you but the Ratchet with the 1/4-3/8 ends with the extended part is AMAZING!!!! They become your cheater bar
This one...
http://t.harborfreight.com/14-in-x-3....google.com%2F
I bought two and yes I've broke them but I walk into a harbor freight and a brand one out the door no questions asked...
I beat on these tools a lot and they take a lot of what I put them through....
Oh and the 1/2 one is beast as well...
This one...
http://t.harborfreight.com/14-in-x-3....google.com%2F
I bought two and yes I've broke them but I walk into a harbor freight and a brand one out the door no questions asked...
I beat on these tools a lot and they take a lot of what I put them through....
Oh and the 1/2 one is beast as well...
I would have walked in a warrantied it, but I bought it probably 4 years ago and of course, I didn't keep the receipt... thankfully they updated their system with electronic receipts and computer transaction records.
I always thought it was stupid though... aside from the very FEW name-brand items, no one else sells their tools - so why require a receipt? I don't need a receipt when I walk into Lowe's with a Kobalt wrench, I don't need a receipt when I walk into Sears with a Craftsman wrench - what the crap? lol