When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks, those caps were really the only part of the exterior that looked worn. Now she looks young again
Originally Posted by MoparNJeep
You may be able to use 4° axle shims and not need a t case drop at all. I'm at 5.5" lift on my 99 and no vibes.
I appreciate the advice, I'll have to look into that. My first thought is that it sounds to good to be true. I mean why do people spend so much money on a SYE and shaft if a set of shims do the same thing. I'm also very ignorant on the entire driveline subject, so I have a lot learning to do. But hey, if it worked for you it may work for me
Thanks, those caps were really the only part of the exterior that looked worn. Now she looks young again I appreciate the advice, I'll have to look into that. My first thought is that it sounds to good to be true. I mean why do people spend so much money on a SYE and shaft if a set of shims do the same thing. I'm also very ignorant on the entire driveline subject, so I have a lot learning to do. But hey, if it worked for you it may work for me
that's not how a stock rear driveshaft should be set up. Stock the pinion and transfer case output should be parallel. You're supposed to aim the pinion toward the transfercase output with sye because of the double cardan joint on the rear driveshaft will soak up the angle with that extra u joint.
that's not how a stock rear driveshaft should be set up. Stock the pinion and transfer case output should be parallel. You're supposed to aim the pinion toward the transfercase output with sye because of the double cardan joint on the rear driveshaft will soak up the angle with that extra u joint.
The man speaks the truth. I used 4° shims with my lift to get my angle better, but I have an SYE.
that's not how a stock rear driveshaft should be set up. Stock the pinion and transfer case output should be parallel. You're supposed to aim the pinion toward the transfercase output with sye because of the double cardan joint on the rear driveshaft will soak up the angle with that extra u joint.
Originally Posted by Silentj
The man speaks the truth. I used 4° shims with my lift to get my angle better, but I have an SYE.
Alright so I finally broke down and decided I HAD to learn about this subject. Everything I read about it might as well have been in a foreign language. So I spent a couple of hours doing some research on the slip yoke, slip yoke eliminators, drive shafts and their connections. Between a couple of posts over on another forum, a site called ericsxj, and some youtube videos I feel like I have a full understanding of what these components and more importantly why I need them.
I'm not going to wait around for vibrations or death wobble to come up and then try to remedy it. So whether I ended up "needing" it or not, I'm going to go ahead and order the SYE and I'll take measurements for the new driveshaft after everything is installed.
that's not how a stock rear driveshaft should be set up. Stock the pinion and transfer case output should be parallel. You're supposed to aim the pinion toward the transfercase output with sye because of the double cardan joint on the rear driveshaft will soak up the angle with that extra u joint.
This info is correct. I used the shims to get closer to the stock pinion angle. (Parallel with the t case) the shims don't have to be used just for sye.
SYE is better route for sure.
Also you can use a XJ front drive shaft for the real instead of a custom one made.. with hack in tap or sye, depending on lift height..
Looks like you're about to have some fun. Start spraying every bolt with penetrating fluid at least a week before you lift. Also, get a small propane torch for the shackle bolts.
While unpacking all of the goodies from my 4wheelparts shipment yesterday I found an issue with one of the wheels. It has a pretty good bend to it, I'll have to put in a call here in a little while to get it fixed. The pictures are of one spot on one wheel, but man they sure are pretty.
That wheel took a good whack to bent like that. I hope they sent out a replacement quickly for ya. I like the wheels though. What offset did you get? 3.75"?
Looks like you're about to have some fun. Start spraying every bolt with penetrating fluid at least a week before you lift. Also, get a small propane torch for the shackle bolts.
Originally Posted by Silentj
That wheel took a good whack to bent like that. I hope they sent out a replacement quickly for ya. I like the wheels though. What offset did you get? 3.75"?
I bought some PB Blaster over the weekend, I'll start hitting it this week. Not sure when I'm going to install the lift though. The stiffeners are supposed to be here tomorrow and I'll have to have some help getting those put in.
Yeah I have a hard time believing someone didn't spot that while mounting. After a phone call and several emails later 4wheelparts is going to go ahead and send another wheel and tire. I'll elaborate on that whole process later, but at the end of the day they're making it right. They're 3.75 and they turned out perfect. I was kind of worried After I ordered, but it's exactly what I wanted.
And for anyone interested in the Dick Cepeks, I put a level on em and pulled a tape measure. I don't know what PSI they're at and I know they don't have any weight on them, but here they are measuring in at just over 32 1/2" tall.
We're headed to Galveston for the day. I sure wish I was taking the Jeep to cruise around on the beach, maybe in a month or so.
The Rubicon Express steering stabilizer and transfer case drop kit (which it doesn't look I'll be using) came in yesterday. HD Offroad stiffeners (huge metal slices of Swiss cheese) came in the day before. 4wheelparts is sending another tire and wheel to replace the damaged one. That turned out to be a small ordeal to get handled, but I believe that was due to one employee rather than the whole company. We're getting there, I've got to spend some time with PB blaster and hopefully I can get this thing lifted soon.
So I made some time for the Jeep yesterday and started spraying it down with PB Blaster. A combination of my small garage having 2 vehicles stuffed in it, the worn out settled suspension and me being a big guy... I had hell just trying to get around under there to spray it down. I did the best I could on the rear and didn't even attempt the front. My plan is to take the truck out of the garage this evening, put the Jeep closer to the middle of the garage, lift the whole thing up on jack stands, pull all of the tires off and then get to spraying everything down.
That's the plan, now here is the situation and the question: I have the lift, tires and frame stiffeners sitting in the garage waiting on me. It's probably going to be a week or two out before my buddy that is going to be doing the welding will be able to tackle this, so I've thought about going ahead and getting started on the lift in the mean time. I've heard some people on here say that they wish they would have done the stiffeners before doing the lift (which is why I went ahead and ordered them). Should I wait until the stiffeners are installed before lifting or can I go ahead and get a jump on the lift and then install the stiffeners after? Keep in mind that either way it will not get driven until all of this is complete. I just don't know if the reason for doing it before has something to do with structural integrity or if people just mean that they wish they would have done them around the same time or before off-roading. Any input?
You'll be fine to start the lift process before the frame stiffeners. The only thing that would impact this, would be if you're doing a long arm. Tires need to come off anyway to weld it up. You'll need to drop the crossmember as well when you do the center section, so have an extra jack available to support the transmission.
06-11-2016, 10:07 AM
