Regular Cherokee mkII
#31
No, I don't lick fish.
Oh, here's a pic of the girls.
Bass, thanks for the tip, I think I think I've heard them called that before but I wasn't sure. The wheels on the 98 seem to be the 'standard' jeep wheels, but they seem different than other 'standard' wheels, unless they changed the way they look with the phase II XJs. such as, old standard steelies had the black center cap, mine has silver.
Im debating what to use the money I eventually get from the white one for. if i get 350 or so from it (assuming the motor, Tfer case, tranny and axels are all still working as i suspect), i may use that to get a small Upcountry-esque lift.
Bass, thanks for the tip, I think I think I've heard them called that before but I wasn't sure. The wheels on the 98 seem to be the 'standard' jeep wheels, but they seem different than other 'standard' wheels, unless they changed the way they look with the phase II XJs. such as, old standard steelies had the black center cap, mine has silver.
Im debating what to use the money I eventually get from the white one for. if i get 350 or so from it (assuming the motor, Tfer case, tranny and axels are all still working as i suspect), i may use that to get a small Upcountry-esque lift.
#32
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Thats about what i figured, i was always told "if a car runs and drives, its worth 500 dollars". well, it may be pretty jacked up, but would probably be fine for a beater off-road. Hence, my neighbor asked me to sell it to him already, and keep him in mind and "give him a good deal". We'll see.
In any case, the code on MkII is indeed P0135- 02 sensor heater circuit malfunction, sensor 1.
In any case, the code on MkII is indeed P0135- 02 sensor heater circuit malfunction, sensor 1.
#33
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
CEL light went out, hasnt come back on.
Actually realized what "courtesy lights" were when the lights wouldnt turn off at my friends house. didnt realize they stay on for about 30 seconds and freaked out.
Fixed my blend door issue (no vent, just hot air). turns out this one still has the nice mechanically actuated door, and the cable just slipped off the post. they changed it in the second half of the 98 model year to electronically driven, so i lucked out there.
this coming weekend i should be getting my battery terminals, and possibly a muffler. Maybe another Thrush Turbo, last jeep's worked alright. Found some bolt extractors in Lowe's that ill probably also pick up next weekend.
sorry, been a busy couple of days. next week will be worse since ill have to drive to Columbus every day for my job.
Actually realized what "courtesy lights" were when the lights wouldnt turn off at my friends house. didnt realize they stay on for about 30 seconds and freaked out.
Fixed my blend door issue (no vent, just hot air). turns out this one still has the nice mechanically actuated door, and the cable just slipped off the post. they changed it in the second half of the 98 model year to electronically driven, so i lucked out there.
this coming weekend i should be getting my battery terminals, and possibly a muffler. Maybe another Thrush Turbo, last jeep's worked alright. Found some bolt extractors in Lowe's that ill probably also pick up next weekend.
sorry, been a busy couple of days. next week will be worse since ill have to drive to Columbus every day for my job.
#34
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Quick update, before i yank some pictures off my phone.
Changed the battery terminal clamps to the brass ones i bought, cleaned up and re-connected the battery-to-fender ground (doesnt seem to have changed anything but it needed done) and swapped in the headlights from the wrecked jeep.
For not having the wiring harness installed and just adding in better sealed beams, the light output really is significantly better.
Changed the battery terminal clamps to the brass ones i bought, cleaned up and re-connected the battery-to-fender ground (doesnt seem to have changed anything but it needed done) and swapped in the headlights from the wrecked jeep.
For not having the wiring harness installed and just adding in better sealed beams, the light output really is significantly better.
#35
No, I don't lick fish.
Quick update, before i yank some pictures off my phone.
Changed the battery terminal clamps to the brass ones i bought, cleaned up and re-connected the battery-to-fender ground (doesnt seem to have changed anything but it needed done) and swapped in the headlights from the wrecked jeep.
For not having the wiring harness installed and just adding in better sealed beams, the light output really is significantly better.
Changed the battery terminal clamps to the brass ones i bought, cleaned up and re-connected the battery-to-fender ground (doesnt seem to have changed anything but it needed done) and swapped in the headlights from the wrecked jeep.
For not having the wiring harness installed and just adding in better sealed beams, the light output really is significantly better.
#36
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
heres some pics of the headlight swap.
Here are how the old headlights were, one Sylvania and one Wagner. First the High-beams before, then after. Same for the low beams.
granted it hard to tell from a picture, but the light output is certainly noticeable. the new headlights are GE Nighthawks that i got for 18 bucks a pop or so from Amazon.
I need to aim them a bit but the new pattern XJs, it seems, take torxs bits, whereas the old XJ took phillips. Wouldn't you know it, the sideways adjusters on both bulbs are suck like glue and trying to strip out.
Here are how the old headlights were, one Sylvania and one Wagner. First the High-beams before, then after. Same for the low beams.
granted it hard to tell from a picture, but the light output is certainly noticeable. the new headlights are GE Nighthawks that i got for 18 bucks a pop or so from Amazon.
I need to aim them a bit but the new pattern XJs, it seems, take torxs bits, whereas the old XJ took phillips. Wouldn't you know it, the sideways adjusters on both bulbs are suck like glue and trying to strip out.
#37
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Heres a pic of the battery clamps i installed. they arent the best in the world (and the Posi terminal was real fun to fit on the larger posi post) but they are much better than the junk i had before.
tomorrow im takin her in for a new muffler so i wont feel so bad leaving my bud's house at 2 or 3am on guy's night anymore
tomorrow im takin her in for a new muffler so i wont feel so bad leaving my bud's house at 2 or 3am on guy's night anymore
#38
No, I don't lick fish.
Hey, I can tell a difference from the pics for sure... and if there's a difference in the pics, the difference in person is definitely better!
You could definitely do worse than those brass terminals too.
You could definitely do worse than those brass terminals too.
#39
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
the ones that were on it were... well junk.
One was lead and cracked, wasnt making a good connection with the cables. the other was like, one of those clamps on imported cars, it was like steel or something.
I think i'm going to look into an 02 sensor. Still going to clean the throttle body and such, but i realize my exhaust smells a bit like gas, and combined with the one time it gave a code for "02 sensor heater circuit", its worth checking into. The real telling thing would be if it goes through a 'cycle' where after so long after startup the 02 sensor does somthing or changes something, like a choke.
Or, just rhe O2 sensor AND IAC both need cleaned/replaced!
I realize this is more of a "repair" thread than a build thread, but ive got a few things in the pipleine that will be coming soonish.
One was lead and cracked, wasnt making a good connection with the cables. the other was like, one of those clamps on imported cars, it was like steel or something.
I think i'm going to look into an 02 sensor. Still going to clean the throttle body and such, but i realize my exhaust smells a bit like gas, and combined with the one time it gave a code for "02 sensor heater circuit", its worth checking into. The real telling thing would be if it goes through a 'cycle' where after so long after startup the 02 sensor does somthing or changes something, like a choke.
Or, just rhe O2 sensor AND IAC both need cleaned/replaced!
I realize this is more of a "repair" thread than a build thread, but ive got a few things in the pipleine that will be coming soonish.
#41
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Well i've sortof compiled a list of things i want to do in the near-term.
Pull valve cover and look in there, clean out and new gasket
change oil
drain trans fluid and pull pan, replace filter, reseal pan and refill
(Hopefully those two will fix some of my piddling little leaks. If not, maybe my rear seal is where my tranny leak is coming from.)
grease slip yoke
drain diff fluids, pull covers, clean out replace and refill
drain transfer case fluid, refill
change plugs, wires, cap and rotor (I already have these on-hand)
change serp belt (have this too)
So in other words, a nice weekend of tinkering. too bad i work two jobs, two days in a row off are a pipedream and much less a good enough break in the weather to do it all.
Sucks not having a garage!
I also noticed today that the previous owner seems to have scratched the VIN number onto the little panel behind the hood.. right in front of the windshield in front of where the vin is already displayed? ill see if it buffs out but oh well if it doesnt.
Pull valve cover and look in there, clean out and new gasket
change oil
drain trans fluid and pull pan, replace filter, reseal pan and refill
(Hopefully those two will fix some of my piddling little leaks. If not, maybe my rear seal is where my tranny leak is coming from.)
grease slip yoke
drain diff fluids, pull covers, clean out replace and refill
drain transfer case fluid, refill
change plugs, wires, cap and rotor (I already have these on-hand)
change serp belt (have this too)
So in other words, a nice weekend of tinkering. too bad i work two jobs, two days in a row off are a pipedream and much less a good enough break in the weather to do it all.
Sucks not having a garage!
I also noticed today that the previous owner seems to have scratched the VIN number onto the little panel behind the hood.. right in front of the windshield in front of where the vin is already displayed? ill see if it buffs out but oh well if it doesnt.
#42
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
looking at getting a replacement key fob since the previous owner couldnt find it/didnt realize they had one. since the ignition has been replaced it would make it much handier to just kep the spare in my waller for my doors and not need two keys for the jeep on my key ring.
just to be sure, the part number on the 97-98 fob is 56008968 or 56008968AB, and the FCC code is GQ43VT10, right? i see a lot of online seller try to sell the three button (has the "Panic" button) fob from the ZJ as the phase 2 XJ's fob so im leery, i'll check the junkyard first.
just to be sure, the part number on the 97-98 fob is 56008968 or 56008968AB, and the FCC code is GQ43VT10, right? i see a lot of online seller try to sell the three button (has the "Panic" button) fob from the ZJ as the phase 2 XJ's fob so im leery, i'll check the junkyard first.
#43
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Well, this isnt going so well.
I have been working on drilling the stud on the parts jeep since friday on and off. its definitely slow going with the titanium coated bits i got.
I had a decent hole started but it was off center. now the bit i was using just broke off in the hole and is still in there.
Now im wondering if i can just keep prying chunks off the lugnut until enough of it is removed that the rest releases.
im definitely going to have a few beers when this dang thing is off here!
I have been working on drilling the stud on the parts jeep since friday on and off. its definitely slow going with the titanium coated bits i got.
I had a decent hole started but it was off center. now the bit i was using just broke off in the hole and is still in there.
Now im wondering if i can just keep prying chunks off the lugnut until enough of it is removed that the rest releases.
im definitely going to have a few beers when this dang thing is off here!
#44
No, I don't lick fish.
I don't know about "prying" chunks off of it, but if you can get your hands on an air compressor and air chisel you can make short work of splitting it. Have you tried heat?
#45
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
its actually going much better now. i lifted the wheel up with a jack so i could get a better angdle at it, and now ive gone up quite a few bit sizes. i ran out of daylight and WD40 though, so i should ave it off there tomorrow if the rain holds off.
I guess is will start thinking of a backup tire should this one nnot be able to be re-seated. The tread on them are good, but if im going to have to buy a new tire then maybe i may as well get a new set. Stay with the Mastercraft Courser AXTs? Grabber AT2? I like the look of the wrangler Authority but im not sure they make them in 235/75/15
I guess is will start thinking of a backup tire should this one nnot be able to be re-seated. The tread on them are good, but if im going to have to buy a new tire then maybe i may as well get a new set. Stay with the Mastercraft Courser AXTs? Grabber AT2? I like the look of the wrangler Authority but im not sure they make them in 235/75/15