616_95xj

really? did he do any tuning?

i just met up with the VP of cheap thrills offroad up here in the mitten, he putting 12" ORIs at all 4 corners on his LJ, says they take a bit of tuning but ride like nothing else. apparently his buddys rig has them.

i went with the FOAs, should be here in a week or so. now to figure out my sprung weight...yeeyee

also need to order helper coils as id like the rig to still sit low.

debating on ordering a triple rate kit and getting some tender springs also...il probably just start off with my dual rates, run a suggested 250/350 and go from there... lots of math, that i dont like. lol

94XjSport94

They make ORI's about 15 min from my house. I toured the place and they offered me an assembly job a while ago. Worth every penny IMO. Like riding on a cloud of *******.

I know nothing about CO's, post up about these please.

616_95xj

Nice! Why no take job?!

I know alittle bit about them but not near as much as i probably should, been reading the crap out of bellavistas CO bible on pirate.

616_95xj

Basic layout of the cage

616_95xj

Start building the mount for my bender

616_95xj

right now im having issues with the rear wheel studs.

new ones i orders from local parts store - say the fit... everything seems right EXCEPT the knurl Dia. .608

used ones i knocked out measure up to - .615 knurl Dia.

i find this puzzling since ive been searching Dormans inventory...and i cannot find a Ford with this size knurl... it seems to be either 1/2-20 .608 replacements for SRW or DRW 9/16-18 .625 replacements...

prefer not to drill the hubs/brand new rotors out for the 9/16ths studs..but at this point it kinda looks like thats where im headed...

oh and 53$ on 20 stupid a## lug studs and nuts....highway robbery

616_95xj

got my rear lug studs all figured out. i will now also be swapping the front lugs to a 9/16-18 stud.

got the rear 60 all cleaned up and ready to sit underneath for spring perch mock up.

rest of rear disk brake swap parts came in along with my bastard joints for drive shafts.

picked up some 39.5x13.5x17 irok bias plys. also just order some steelies.

waiting on a bracket or two from ruffstuff for the front D60 then il work on getting that under and mocked up. after that il be sending the axles out to my good friends over at Grand Rapids Motor Car, to have them geared 5.38.

ive got a few pics. mostly boring old brown boxes stuffed with goodies. post em up later.

616_95xj

616_95xj

94XjSport94

Did you use the same upper frame mount as me? All those brackets look familiar and I don't miss doing all that lol.

Your diff looks more centered under the Jeep where as mine is a little more offset towards the driver side. Probably an optical illusion in conjunction with different tube lengths. I hate those front hubs. My F 2 fiddy has those and it sucks taking them apart.

I hope you like those tires. I haven't ever been impressed with that particular size in a 16.5 or 17. They just seem stiff and slick in a 39.5.

Looks awesome!

616_95xj

Yes i did. I was trying to find an alternative to cutting the xmember off, and you mentioned thats the route you took, i liked it, stole it and ran. Lol

Yea think its just tube size. And the axle is off to the passengerside a hair. Only about 1/2".

Theyre not fun to tear into, but bearings are dirt cheap figure replace them and the races now, go through the lock outs and hopefully i wont need to be back in there for awhile. I do think my lock out are going to be a weak point considering i plan on welding the front. We shall see i guess.

Ive heard that about them, also that for some reason the 39.5 on 17s like these the sidewalls are prone to ripping easier then any other size? Weird i thought. Got a decent deal on them so figured id run them and see what happens. These particular sidewalls felt pretty soft when i mounted them compared to A/Ts...but thats radial vs bias.

We shall see!

94XjSport94

Both my axles are welded. It kinda really sucks, I'd go ahead and spend the extra for a selectable rear. The welded rear pushes you around like crazy. If you leave at least one hub unlocked up front it helps moving from trail to trail depending on where you wheel.

I want to see how you do this cage work and dovetail.

616_95xj

Ive been thinking about selectable rear, but also been thinking long term, if i weld them and do a doubler, i can line lock the rears and swing the front around. Though a selectable would make that process even easyer yet. I just want to get it wheelable so i can run it. Plus, if i go selectable id like to upgrade to 35 spines. Going to just run the 30s for now and wait. I have spares already.

And i cant wait to get started on cage work...ive got a solid plan, but it might change a bit once i start. axles need to be in first so i can move it around. Hopefully mounting the bender mount out back this Weekend.

Rest of my gear crap showed up this morn. yeeyee.

94XjSport94

Are you going to run conversion u joints or are you buying new custom driveshafs? I need to wire my line lock back up but I don't seem to work on my Jeep until a few days before I go wheeling. Lol

616_95xj

yea conversion joints for now. bought 3, so I have one as a spare. Id like to pick up one more and 2 driveshafts just so I have spare D-shafts already set-up ready to swap in. Are you using an electric line lock? I planned on using a manual style with SS ball valves ran to the dash - which is getting completely redone also...that very may well be what holds me up the most on getting it ready to wheel. all the wiring and gauge crap. not going to do anything fancy for the dash, basically just flat SS plate.