Project Danger Cart
#1456
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Thread Starter
Having a hard time deciding between Mickey Thompson MTZp3 and Cooper STT Pro.
Not much difference in cost. Both made by Cooper with probably the same silica rubber compound
I know i love the MTZs (previous version), but I like the look of the STT Pros and i'm interested to see how they compare.
The previous version of the STTs didn't impress me much though, especially in the wet, and wore down much quicker than I would have liked. Supposedly the STT Pros are better, at least in the first regard.
Not much difference in cost. Both made by Cooper with probably the same silica rubber compound
I know i love the MTZs (previous version), but I like the look of the STT Pros and i'm interested to see how they compare.
The previous version of the STTs didn't impress me much though, especially in the wet, and wore down much quicker than I would have liked. Supposedly the STT Pros are better, at least in the first regard.
#1457
No, I don't lick fish.
Having a hard time deciding between Mickey Thompson MTZp3 and Cooper STT Pro.
Not much difference in cost. Both made by Cooper with probably the same silica rubber compound
I know i love the MTZs (previous version), but I like the look of the STT Pros and i'm interested to see how they compare.
The previous version of the STTs didn't impress me much though, especially in the wet, and wore down much quicker than I would have liked. Supposedly the STT Pros are better, at least in the first regard.
Not much difference in cost. Both made by Cooper with probably the same silica rubber compound
I know i love the MTZs (previous version), but I like the look of the STT Pros and i'm interested to see how they compare.
The previous version of the STTs didn't impress me much though, especially in the wet, and wore down much quicker than I would have liked. Supposedly the STT Pros are better, at least in the first regard.
#1459
No, I don't lick fish.
#1460
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 4,104
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Having a hard time deciding between Mickey Thompson MTZp3 and Cooper STT Pro.
Not much difference in cost. Both made by Cooper with probably the same silica rubber compound
I know i love the MTZs (previous version), but I like the look of the STT Pros and i'm interested to see how they compare.
The previous version of the STTs didn't impress me much though, especially in the wet, and wore down much quicker than I would have liked. Supposedly the STT Pros are better, at least in the first regard.
Not much difference in cost. Both made by Cooper with probably the same silica rubber compound
I know i love the MTZs (previous version), but I like the look of the STT Pros and i'm interested to see how they compare.
The previous version of the STTs didn't impress me much though, especially in the wet, and wore down much quicker than I would have liked. Supposedly the STT Pros are better, at least in the first regard.
#1461
No, I don't lick fish.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/pr...pocket-144272/
Lives in Hudson, FL (rains here a lot) so he'd probably have some insight - doesn't have the XJ anymore though, so make sure you guys rib him for getting a JK
#1462
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 280
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have no complaints with my STT Pro's. The wear has been good so far as well (~8k, but no signs of wear). I've been in basically every terrain possible with these.
#1463
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Thread Starter
More work done on the rear bumper. Getting closed to finished. Installed the tire carrier vertical support and gusseting last night, and capped the swing arm tube
Left to do:
Weld up the wheel attachment assembly
Weld on D-ring tabs
Weld on mounting brackets
Weld together the frame tie plates
Weld on Hi-Lift mounts
Weld on rear quarter protection
Weld on rubber bumper tab and retaining pin
Touch-up welding and Powdercoating
Left to do:
Weld up the wheel attachment assembly
Weld on D-ring tabs
Weld on mounting brackets
Weld together the frame tie plates
Weld on Hi-Lift mounts
Weld on rear quarter protection
Weld on rubber bumper tab and retaining pin
Touch-up welding and Powdercoating
#1464
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Thread Starter
Well jeep is still down...
Replaced the clutch line. Install went smooth. Tested it, bled and it worked. Drove down the street and back. Double check for leaks - crap - it's leaking at the master cylinder fitting. I figure i probably nicked the oring reinstalling it on the new fitting. So i ordered 46 orings of various sizes. Waited a week to get them in the mail, tore the master off the firewall again and reinstalled the fitting with a brand new oring. STILL LEAKS. Figured out I over-tightened the brass fitting into the new line and stripped the threads off. Fantastic - so I order a new fitting and proceed to dig the brass threads out of the hardline fitting. So this past weekend I now have the new fitting. Carefully tightened down the fitting, use another brand new oring, and viola! No leaks! Works mint.
Start it up and drive 20 feet to the stop sign....Jeep coughs and dies. WTF? I'm out of gas. I could have sworn i had a half a tank in there...
...you see where this is going?
Fine. Walk back to the shed, grab the gas can, and throw a half gallon in the tank. Sounds like it's raining. Gasoline. From behind my gas tank skid plate. Greaaaaat
Proceeded to tear off the hitch, rear bumper, and skid plate. I had to use a grinder on two of the skid plate bolts. THAT was sketchy next to a leaking fuel tank...
And i was greeted with this:
I tried patching it with JB WaterWeld. No dice...still leaks even before I pressurized the system. And one of the straps is almost totally broken through.
So.....
Picking up a used good condition tank from a buddy tomorrow morning
Ordered new straps, fuel filter (because why not), and pump locking ring and oring.
I may be able to salvage the hanger bolts, if not i'll grab some eye bolts from the hardware store and cut them into hooks...not paying $30/ea for new J-bolts....
FUN!
Replaced the clutch line. Install went smooth. Tested it, bled and it worked. Drove down the street and back. Double check for leaks - crap - it's leaking at the master cylinder fitting. I figure i probably nicked the oring reinstalling it on the new fitting. So i ordered 46 orings of various sizes. Waited a week to get them in the mail, tore the master off the firewall again and reinstalled the fitting with a brand new oring. STILL LEAKS. Figured out I over-tightened the brass fitting into the new line and stripped the threads off. Fantastic - so I order a new fitting and proceed to dig the brass threads out of the hardline fitting. So this past weekend I now have the new fitting. Carefully tightened down the fitting, use another brand new oring, and viola! No leaks! Works mint.
Start it up and drive 20 feet to the stop sign....Jeep coughs and dies. WTF? I'm out of gas. I could have sworn i had a half a tank in there...
...you see where this is going?
Fine. Walk back to the shed, grab the gas can, and throw a half gallon in the tank. Sounds like it's raining. Gasoline. From behind my gas tank skid plate. Greaaaaat
Proceeded to tear off the hitch, rear bumper, and skid plate. I had to use a grinder on two of the skid plate bolts. THAT was sketchy next to a leaking fuel tank...
And i was greeted with this:
I tried patching it with JB WaterWeld. No dice...still leaks even before I pressurized the system. And one of the straps is almost totally broken through.
So.....
Picking up a used good condition tank from a buddy tomorrow morning
Ordered new straps, fuel filter (because why not), and pump locking ring and oring.
I may be able to salvage the hanger bolts, if not i'll grab some eye bolts from the hardware store and cut them into hooks...not paying $30/ea for new J-bolts....
FUN!
#1465
CF Veteran
That sucks. Just dropped the gas tank yesterday and it's got some surface rust on it too. Planning on cleaning it up and putting por15 on it before putting it back in.
#1466
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Thread Starter
new to me tank acquired.
Has some minor surface rust, and some internal rust scale from sitting for a while. One of my coworkers has a kit to clean/coat the inside that he's bringing me tomorrow. Outside will get a couple coats of oil-based rustoleum.
Has some minor surface rust, and some internal rust scale from sitting for a while. One of my coworkers has a kit to clean/coat the inside that he's bringing me tomorrow. Outside will get a couple coats of oil-based rustoleum.
#1467
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Thread Starter
also took some installed photos of the new clutch line
#1468
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Thread Starter
old tank was definitely shot
New tank lined and painted, ready to be installed tonight. I got a new fuel filter and rubber lines to install at the same time. May as well.
Best surprise ever - rear floor is 95% intact! Didn't expect this due to what i found up front. Cleaned it up and applied 2 cans of rubberized undercoating.
New tank lined and painted, ready to be installed tonight. I got a new fuel filter and rubber lines to install at the same time. May as well.
Best surprise ever - rear floor is 95% intact! Didn't expect this due to what i found up front. Cleaned it up and applied 2 cans of rubberized undercoating.
#1469
Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Colorado
Posts: 135
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
#1470
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Thread Starter
well...you got me there...
New tank is in and jeep is back on the road. I ended up cutting up the stock plastic cover with a utility knife and just used the sections that go between the straps and the tank. This should limit the continuous mud/water contact that caused the rusting of the first tank. I should be able to easily spray any mud out of the skid plate with this setup instead of leaving it trapped for years
Installed with new pump oring, rollover valve orings, rubber fuel lines, and a new fuel filter
New tank is in and jeep is back on the road. I ended up cutting up the stock plastic cover with a utility knife and just used the sections that go between the straps and the tank. This should limit the continuous mud/water contact that caused the rusting of the first tank. I should be able to easily spray any mud out of the skid plate with this setup instead of leaving it trapped for years
Installed with new pump oring, rollover valve orings, rubber fuel lines, and a new fuel filter