Project Cheap Jeep...For Real!
03-29-2012, 01:42 AM
#16
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Above the bumper but level with the bottom of the side markers. If you go to the first page and look at the third post from the bottom, you can see what I meant.
Last edited by Tacticaledge; 03-29-2012 at 01:44 AM.
03-29-2012, 01:55 AM
#17
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Model: Cherokee
Originally Posted by Tacticaledge
I have seen three XJ builds that all claim to be "Project Cheap Jeep".
JP Magazine, Trucks with Stacey David, and 4X4 TV have all built up their version of the "Poor Mans XJ" and they all seem to have one thing in common......They are not at all cheap!
JP Magazine, Trucks with Stacey David, and 4X4 TV have all built up their version of the "Poor Mans XJ" and they all seem to have one thing in common......They are not at all cheap!
I think these shows should pick a group of guys to build one of these budget jeeps and see what they come up with and then let it go against one of these tv show budget builds just to see what you really get when you buy a big expensive air locker.
Good luck with the budget build
03-30-2012, 03:45 PM
#18
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The coils arrived 10 days before the shocks and rear leafs. I was installing pieces as they came just because of time constraints and fear of getting behind with a pile of parts staring at me. I get home from work at midnight, jump out of bed at 6am and do whatever I can get done before driving the Jeep to work again.
The goodies finally arrived.
Old VS. New. The new one isn't even extended all the way. After I replaced the coils, the old shocks didn't even reach anymore. I had to have a buddy sit on the fender to get the nut on it. Makes me wonder what the previous owner was thinking when he threw this frankenstein lift together.
So much nicer now...And rides a lot better too.
Only took about 15 minutes on each side to replace the shocks so while I was at it on this day, I decided to do the oil filter adapter mod too. I had already replaced the valve cover gasket and JB Welded the dipstick tube base since it was leaking from those areas as well. I was about to do a rear main seal and oil pan gasket until I found this little gem.
The bottom side of the adapter blew out about a quart a day.
Not 45 minutes later, I was done. It really wasn't nearly as difficult as some posts lead me to believe. I removed the 15mm motor mount bolt that was in the way first. Then I used a t-60 on a 3/8 ratchet with a 19mm box wrench over the handle for leverage and pulled like hell. It finally broke loose after about a minute but I was expecting to have to use a 30" bar like I heard from everyone else. Once there was no more clearance for the ratchet, I just used the t-60 with a pair of pliers on it to get it the rest of the way out. Anyway, got it done and here is the result:
Used two cans of carb cleaner at this point. I have since degreased the engine and enjoyed not having any more leaks. For the price of the Mopar 04720363 seal kit, I bought an oil filter and will never have to change the seal again. The filter is a Fram Tough Guard TG 3614. It is for a Chevy Metro or Jeep Liberty if you go to Autozone looking for one.
The goodies finally arrived.
Old VS. New. The new one isn't even extended all the way. After I replaced the coils, the old shocks didn't even reach anymore. I had to have a buddy sit on the fender to get the nut on it. Makes me wonder what the previous owner was thinking when he threw this frankenstein lift together.
So much nicer now...And rides a lot better too.
Only took about 15 minutes on each side to replace the shocks so while I was at it on this day, I decided to do the oil filter adapter mod too. I had already replaced the valve cover gasket and JB Welded the dipstick tube base since it was leaking from those areas as well. I was about to do a rear main seal and oil pan gasket until I found this little gem.
The bottom side of the adapter blew out about a quart a day.
Not 45 minutes later, I was done. It really wasn't nearly as difficult as some posts lead me to believe. I removed the 15mm motor mount bolt that was in the way first. Then I used a t-60 on a 3/8 ratchet with a 19mm box wrench over the handle for leverage and pulled like hell. It finally broke loose after about a minute but I was expecting to have to use a 30" bar like I heard from everyone else. Once there was no more clearance for the ratchet, I just used the t-60 with a pair of pliers on it to get it the rest of the way out. Anyway, got it done and here is the result:
Used two cans of carb cleaner at this point. I have since degreased the engine and enjoyed not having any more leaks. For the price of the Mopar 04720363 seal kit, I bought an oil filter and will never have to change the seal again. The filter is a Fram Tough Guard TG 3614. It is for a Chevy Metro or Jeep Liberty if you go to Autozone looking for one.
Last edited by Tacticaledge; 03-30-2012 at 04:36 PM.
04-02-2012, 01:14 AM
#19
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Get Fat Bob's Garage 3 inch budget lift. $85, Pro Comp rear leaf Springs. $200 for both shipped. Front sway Bar disconnects $70 Rough Country, Transfer Case Drop spacers off of Ebay $30. Use your Rear Sway bar brackets as Bar Pin eliminators for the rear shocks, buy front bar pin eliminators Ebay, $30. Rear shocks, use the 1990 Jeep Comanche rear shocks $24 x2 Gabriel #61506 at Autozone. I bought the Rough Country 9000 shocks for the front $34 x2. " A lot of people like the 8000 series better" $25 x2. Move your Front brake lines down by drilling new holes and bending the lines straight. Rear brake line can be relocated too. Or if you want the nice stuff you can go and get the Steel braided lines for $80 for the set.
53111 Is the Pro Comp Part Number for the 2.5 leaf springs.
$515.00
This is the stuff I used. I will probably get true 3 inch front springs but the spacers seem fine and I keep a decent ride with them.
For Tires and wheels I bought Hercules Trail Digger 31x10.5 15 tires from OnlineTires.com for $158 shipped a piece. I bought used Wrangler Ravine wheels for $200 for the set and painted the centers black.
Ravine wheels painted black. Rattle can. My stock steel wheels were painted over a year ago and they still look good. I used the same Rustoleum paint.
Hercules Trail Digger tire next to my stock 225 75 Firestone. JP Magazine really liked these tires and they did well all around.
Fat Bob's Garage Budget lift. $79 I used the shackles on the 1.5 setting with the 2.5 Pro Comp rear leaf Springs.
Here are the quick disconnects from Rough Country. They are for 4 inch lifts but I just made some reliefs in the inner fender well with a hammer and they don't clunk anymore. And when you're off road you disconnect them so they don't clunk into the fender well. I like the tie rod end joint they use for the sway bar link.
You can also see the Fat Bob's 3 inch spring spacer.
Here are the rear Jeep Comanche shocks "24.4 inches long extended Just like the 4 inch lift kit shocks you buy" and bar pin eliminators I made out of the old rear sway bar brackets. Bar Pins clunk, I hate clunks so bar pin eliminators are nice.
I also put on a ZJ Pitman arm which gives you a 1 inch drop and puts the steering link at a better angle. You can get them all day long at the Jyard.
Here is what it looks like. This is before I put the Pro Comp Rear leaf springs on but you can get an idea what it looks like.
Here is a before everything I mentioned and without the paint job I got from Maaco for $400. Paid $300 for my Jeep 2 years ago. I had to convert it to 4wd. Cost me $480 from the U Pull and Pay Jyard for the conversion parts.
53111 Is the Pro Comp Part Number for the 2.5 leaf springs.
$515.00
This is the stuff I used. I will probably get true 3 inch front springs but the spacers seem fine and I keep a decent ride with them.
For Tires and wheels I bought Hercules Trail Digger 31x10.5 15 tires from OnlineTires.com for $158 shipped a piece. I bought used Wrangler Ravine wheels for $200 for the set and painted the centers black.
Ravine wheels painted black. Rattle can. My stock steel wheels were painted over a year ago and they still look good. I used the same Rustoleum paint.
Hercules Trail Digger tire next to my stock 225 75 Firestone. JP Magazine really liked these tires and they did well all around.
Fat Bob's Garage Budget lift. $79 I used the shackles on the 1.5 setting with the 2.5 Pro Comp rear leaf Springs.
Here are the quick disconnects from Rough Country. They are for 4 inch lifts but I just made some reliefs in the inner fender well with a hammer and they don't clunk anymore. And when you're off road you disconnect them so they don't clunk into the fender well. I like the tie rod end joint they use for the sway bar link.
You can also see the Fat Bob's 3 inch spring spacer.
Here are the rear Jeep Comanche shocks "24.4 inches long extended Just like the 4 inch lift kit shocks you buy" and bar pin eliminators I made out of the old rear sway bar brackets. Bar Pins clunk, I hate clunks so bar pin eliminators are nice.
I also put on a ZJ Pitman arm which gives you a 1 inch drop and puts the steering link at a better angle. You can get them all day long at the Jyard.
Here is what it looks like. This is before I put the Pro Comp Rear leaf springs on but you can get an idea what it looks like.
Here is a before everything I mentioned and without the paint job I got from Maaco for $400. Paid $300 for my Jeep 2 years ago. I had to convert it to 4wd. Cost me $480 from the U Pull and Pay Jyard for the conversion parts.
I too am a husband and father trying to build my xj on the cheap. I'm able to do my own fabrication so that helps too, but I think one of the hardest parts is getting the time to do it. I love spending time with my family, so the jeep often gets overlooked. Great build so far! Do you happen to have the part number for the rear leaf springs?
Chad
Chad
Last edited by Modrod; 04-02-2012 at 01:24 AM.
04-02-2012, 01:31 AM
#20
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
What was your method for getting the filter mount off of the adapter? I am going to do this next week and I was wondering the best way to take off the filter mount so I can put it on the block.
Thanks,
Paul
Thanks,
Paul
The coils arrived 10 days before the shocks and rear leafs. I was installing pieces as they came just because of time constraints and fear of getting behind with a pile of parts staring at me. I get home from work at midnight, jump out of bed at 6am and do whatever I can get done before driving the Jeep to work again.
The goodies finally arrived.
Old VS. New. The new one isn't even extended all the way. After I replaced the coils, the old shocks didn't even reach anymore. I had to have a buddy sit on the fender to get the nut on it. Makes me wonder what the previous owner was thinking when he threw this frankenstein lift together.
So much nicer now...And rides a lot better too.
Only took about 15 minutes on each side to replace the shocks so while I was at it on this day, I decided to do the oil filter adapter mod too. I had already replaced the valve cover gasket and JB Welded the dipstick tube base since it was leaking from those areas as well. I was about to do a rear main seal and oil pan gasket until I found this little gem.
The bottom side of the adapter blew out about a quart a day.
Not 45 minutes later, I was done. It really wasn't nearly as difficult as some posts lead me to believe. I removed the 15mm motor mount bolt that was in the way first. Then I used a t-60 on a 3/8 ratchet with a 19mm box wrench over the handle for leverage and pulled like hell. It finally broke loose after about a minute but I was expecting to have to use a 30" bar like I heard from everyone else. Once there was no more clearance for the ratchet, I just used the t-60 with a pair of pliers on it to get it the rest of the way out. Anyway, got it done and here is the result:
Used two cans of carb cleaner at this point. I have since degreased the engine and enjoyed not having any more leaks. For the price of the Mopar 04720363 seal kit, I bought an oil filter and will never have to change the seal again. The filter is a Fram Tough Guard TG 3614. It is for a Chevy Metro or Jeep Liberty if you go to Autozone looking for one.
The goodies finally arrived.
Old VS. New. The new one isn't even extended all the way. After I replaced the coils, the old shocks didn't even reach anymore. I had to have a buddy sit on the fender to get the nut on it. Makes me wonder what the previous owner was thinking when he threw this frankenstein lift together.
So much nicer now...And rides a lot better too.
Only took about 15 minutes on each side to replace the shocks so while I was at it on this day, I decided to do the oil filter adapter mod too. I had already replaced the valve cover gasket and JB Welded the dipstick tube base since it was leaking from those areas as well. I was about to do a rear main seal and oil pan gasket until I found this little gem.
The bottom side of the adapter blew out about a quart a day.
Not 45 minutes later, I was done. It really wasn't nearly as difficult as some posts lead me to believe. I removed the 15mm motor mount bolt that was in the way first. Then I used a t-60 on a 3/8 ratchet with a 19mm box wrench over the handle for leverage and pulled like hell. It finally broke loose after about a minute but I was expecting to have to use a 30" bar like I heard from everyone else. Once there was no more clearance for the ratchet, I just used the t-60 with a pair of pliers on it to get it the rest of the way out. Anyway, got it done and here is the result:
Used two cans of carb cleaner at this point. I have since degreased the engine and enjoyed not having any more leaks. For the price of the Mopar 04720363 seal kit, I bought an oil filter and will never have to change the seal again. The filter is a Fram Tough Guard TG 3614. It is for a Chevy Metro or Jeep Liberty if you go to Autozone looking for one.
04-02-2012, 07:15 AM
#21
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I put the adapter in a vice and used a 1 inch socket on a half inch drive ratchet to remove it. Standard threads, righty tighty lefty loosey. Use a generous amount of locktite when you put it in the block. Autozone has a duralast impact set for $20.00 or the single socket will run like $7.00 if you don't have one.
Here is a full tutorial on the mod.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...rokee-1162291/
Last edited by Tacticaledge; 04-02-2012 at 07:18 AM.
04-03-2012, 04:19 PM
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Ok...So I got the rear suspension done.
What a pain!!!!!!
All four of the upper shock mount bolts broke so I drilled and tapped them out. No big deal.
The front leaf spring bushings about killed me. I managed to get the passenger side out using a 36 inch breaker bar. The drivers side had other plans. The bolt managed to get fused to the metal sleeve inside the bushing and would only come out about three quarters of an inch before the sleeve started spinning too. I don't see how this could have possibly happened since the previous owner took such meticulous care of the vehicle.
Anyway, I ended up cutting the bolt off with an angle grinder, twisting the leaf spring until it came out, and replaced it with a new bolt.
After all this, my arms felt like wet noodles but aparantly I wasn't done.
In my infinite wisdom, I purchased two inch lift springs which wouldn't be a big deal except for the lift shackels that were already installed. I ended up with 5.5 inches of lift in the rear. This binded the drive shaft pretty good so off to the hardware store again I go. I bought 4 M-10 by inch and a half bolts and 8 good sized nuts that would barely slip over them. I don't remember what size.
I put a jack under the transmission crossmember and started removing the bolts and studs. The bolts came out no problem but the studs had other plans. I tried every way possible to get those things out. Using two nuts, grinding two sides down flat and using 12 inch vice grips. They weren't going anywhere. So back out with the angle grinder. Then more drilling...Then more tapping. Had I not wore out every drill bit I had I might have finished this project at a better hour. It was around 8:30 PM when I finished. I started at 8:00 AM. I ended up with a 7/8ths of an inch drop which fixed the problem in short order.
Here are some pics of the finished product. I have 5.5 inches of lift all the way around and so far I can run down the interstate at 80 mph with no vibration and no death wobble.
Oh yeah....The first pic below was taken by my friend when he thought we were done. You can see my nuts hanging down on the two other pics.
22.5 inches from center of hub to bottom of fender flare on front and rear. That is 5 inches of front lift and 5.5 inches of rear lift.
If you can't tell from the picture, that is a 24 ounce Natural Light can on top of the back tire.....That's right folks.....Even the beer is cheap on this build.
What a pain!!!!!!
All four of the upper shock mount bolts broke so I drilled and tapped them out. No big deal.
The front leaf spring bushings about killed me. I managed to get the passenger side out using a 36 inch breaker bar. The drivers side had other plans. The bolt managed to get fused to the metal sleeve inside the bushing and would only come out about three quarters of an inch before the sleeve started spinning too. I don't see how this could have possibly happened since the previous owner took such meticulous care of the vehicle.
Anyway, I ended up cutting the bolt off with an angle grinder, twisting the leaf spring until it came out, and replaced it with a new bolt.
After all this, my arms felt like wet noodles but aparantly I wasn't done.
In my infinite wisdom, I purchased two inch lift springs which wouldn't be a big deal except for the lift shackels that were already installed. I ended up with 5.5 inches of lift in the rear. This binded the drive shaft pretty good so off to the hardware store again I go. I bought 4 M-10 by inch and a half bolts and 8 good sized nuts that would barely slip over them. I don't remember what size.
I put a jack under the transmission crossmember and started removing the bolts and studs. The bolts came out no problem but the studs had other plans. I tried every way possible to get those things out. Using two nuts, grinding two sides down flat and using 12 inch vice grips. They weren't going anywhere. So back out with the angle grinder. Then more drilling...Then more tapping. Had I not wore out every drill bit I had I might have finished this project at a better hour. It was around 8:30 PM when I finished. I started at 8:00 AM. I ended up with a 7/8ths of an inch drop which fixed the problem in short order.
Here are some pics of the finished product. I have 5.5 inches of lift all the way around and so far I can run down the interstate at 80 mph with no vibration and no death wobble.
Oh yeah....The first pic below was taken by my friend when he thought we were done. You can see my nuts hanging down on the two other pics.
22.5 inches from center of hub to bottom of fender flare on front and rear. That is 5 inches of front lift and 5.5 inches of rear lift.
If you can't tell from the picture, that is a 24 ounce Natural Light can on top of the back tire.....That's right folks.....Even the beer is cheap on this build.
Last edited by Tacticaledge; 04-03-2012 at 04:24 PM.
04-03-2012, 04:36 PM
#24
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Yeah, the ole bench vise is one of my favorite tools. 
I live in an apt right now and my vise, with no bench is in my storage unit. Sucks....
I guess I am going to have to try my Dewalt electric impact. I don't know if it will take it off but that is all I got.
Thanks for the info.
I like the thread, it allows everyone to put in how they did their lift and we can all get ideas and resources for parts and accessories.
I live in an apt right now and my vise, with no bench is in my storage unit. Sucks....I guess I am going to have to try my Dewalt electric impact. I don't know if it will take it off but that is all I got.
Thanks for the info.
I like the thread, it allows everyone to put in how they did their lift and we can all get ideas and resources for parts and accessories.
I put the adapter in a vice and used a 1 inch socket on a half inch drive ratchet to remove it. Standard threads, righty tighty lefty loosey. Use a generous amount of locktite when you put it in the block. Autozone has a duralast impact set for $20.00 or the single socket will run like $7.00 if you don't have one.
Here is a full tutorial on the mod.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...rokee-1162291/
Here is a full tutorial on the mod.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...rokee-1162291/
04-03-2012, 04:40 PM
#25
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
You're going to get banned if you keep showing your nuts on this forum. 
Ok...So I got the rear suspension done.
What a pain!!!!!!
All four of the upper shock mount bolts broke so I drilled and tapped them out. No big deal.
The front leaf spring bushings about killed me. I managed to get the passenger side out using a 36 inch breaker bar. The drivers side had other plans. The bolt managed to get fused to the metal sleeve inside the bushing and would only come out about three quarters of an inch before the sleeve started spinning too. I don't see how this could have possibly happened since the previous owner took such meticulous care of the vehicle.
Anyway, I ended up cutting the bolt off with an angle grinder, twisting the leaf spring until it came out, and replaced it with a new bolt.
After all this, my arms felt like wet noodles but aparantly I wasn't done.
In my infinite wisdom, I purchased two inch lift springs which wouldn't be a big deal except for the lift shackels that were already installed. I ended up with 5.5 inches of lift in the rear. This binded the drive shaft pretty good so off to the hardware store again I go. I bought 4 M-10 by inch and a half bolts and 8 good sized nuts that would barely slip over them. I don't remember what size.
I put a jack under the transmission crossmember and started removing the bolts and studs. The bolts came out no problem but the studs had other plans. I tried every way possible to get those things out. Using two nuts, grinding two sides down flat and using 12 inch vice grips. They weren't going anywhere. So back out with the angle grinder. Then more drilling...Then more tapping. Had I not wore out every drill bit I had I might have finished this project at a better hour. It was around 8:30 PM when I finished. I started at 8:00 AM. I ended up with a 7/8ths of an inch drop which fixed the problem in short order.
Here are some pics of the finished product. I have 5.5 inches of lift all the way around and so far I can run down the interstate at 80 mph with no vibration and no death wobble.
Oh yeah....The first pic below was taken by my friend when he thought we were done. You can see my nuts hanging down on the two other pics.
22.5 inches from center of hub to bottom of fender flare on front and rear. That is 5 inches of front lift and 5.5 inches of rear lift.
If you can't tell from the picture, that is a 24 ounce Natural Light can on top of the back tire.....That's right folks.....Even the beer is cheap on this build.
What a pain!!!!!!
All four of the upper shock mount bolts broke so I drilled and tapped them out. No big deal.
The front leaf spring bushings about killed me. I managed to get the passenger side out using a 36 inch breaker bar. The drivers side had other plans. The bolt managed to get fused to the metal sleeve inside the bushing and would only come out about three quarters of an inch before the sleeve started spinning too. I don't see how this could have possibly happened since the previous owner took such meticulous care of the vehicle.
Anyway, I ended up cutting the bolt off with an angle grinder, twisting the leaf spring until it came out, and replaced it with a new bolt.
After all this, my arms felt like wet noodles but aparantly I wasn't done.
In my infinite wisdom, I purchased two inch lift springs which wouldn't be a big deal except for the lift shackels that were already installed. I ended up with 5.5 inches of lift in the rear. This binded the drive shaft pretty good so off to the hardware store again I go. I bought 4 M-10 by inch and a half bolts and 8 good sized nuts that would barely slip over them. I don't remember what size.
I put a jack under the transmission crossmember and started removing the bolts and studs. The bolts came out no problem but the studs had other plans. I tried every way possible to get those things out. Using two nuts, grinding two sides down flat and using 12 inch vice grips. They weren't going anywhere. So back out with the angle grinder. Then more drilling...Then more tapping. Had I not wore out every drill bit I had I might have finished this project at a better hour. It was around 8:30 PM when I finished. I started at 8:00 AM. I ended up with a 7/8ths of an inch drop which fixed the problem in short order.
Here are some pics of the finished product. I have 5.5 inches of lift all the way around and so far I can run down the interstate at 80 mph with no vibration and no death wobble.
Oh yeah....The first pic below was taken by my friend when he thought we were done. You can see my nuts hanging down on the two other pics.
22.5 inches from center of hub to bottom of fender flare on front and rear. That is 5 inches of front lift and 5.5 inches of rear lift.
If you can't tell from the picture, that is a 24 ounce Natural Light can on top of the back tire.....That's right folks.....Even the beer is cheap on this build.
04-03-2012, 04:46 PM
#26
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Yeah, the ole bench vise is one of my favorite tools. I live in an apt right now and my vise, with no bench is in my storage unit. Sucks....
I guess I am going to have to try my Dewalt electric impact. I don't know if it will take it off but that is all I got.
Thanks for the info.
I like the thread, it allows everyone to put in how they did their lift and we can all get ideas and resources for parts and accessories.
I live in an apt right now and my vise, with no bench is in my storage unit. Sucks....I guess I am going to have to try my Dewalt electric impact. I don't know if it will take it off but that is all I got.
Thanks for the info.
I like the thread, it allows everyone to put in how they did their lift and we can all get ideas and resources for parts and accessories.
No bench for my vise either. I just had it sitting on the ground and held it down with my left hand while I cranked the threaded pipe out with my right.
I thought someone would catch the reference to the nuts...LOL
04-03-2012, 07:23 PM
#27
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I'm about to check my transmission throttle valve cable and see whats up with that. The Tranny is acting like it wants to die and I'm hoping that adjusting the cable will fix that problem.
Currently waiting forever to shift from first to second. Long wait from third to fourth and it likes to jump into overdrive on the interstate under a steady pedal.
I'll let ya'll know if it works.
Here is a video on the adjustment procedure...Super easy.
Last edited by Tacticaledge; 04-03-2012 at 07:26 PM.
04-03-2012, 08:26 PM
#29
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Surprisingly no. I guess having all the extra tubing on the outside like that keeps it cool.....Well not exactly cool but you get what I mean. The primer has been on there for about 3 months now and it doesn't show any signs of baking. I drive just over 80 miles per day too. The exhaust is actually about an inch and a half from the body. It doesn't contact at any point. The closest it comes is at the elbow on the bottom and that has just under a half inch clearance too.
I used a super heavy primer when I did it so hopefully when it comes time to paint, it will hold up just as well. The pipe itself is painted with engine enamel and that seems to be holding up pretty good too.
I used a super heavy primer when I did it so hopefully when it comes time to paint, it will hold up just as well. The pipe itself is painted with engine enamel and that seems to be holding up pretty good too.
06-15-2012, 12:17 PM
#30
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Haven't posted in a while so I figured I would leave a picture. This is what the Cherokee looks like right now in the hotel parking lot where Im at.
Got 35X12.5X15 on there now with minimal fender trimming and even used the stock flares with a little trimming.
Did some painting on it too since I've been gone.
Got 35X12.5X15 on there now with minimal fender trimming and even used the stock flares with a little trimming.
Did some painting on it too since I've been gone.