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Shocks came in yesterday, and got them all hooked up! Jeep is officially ready to roll! I want to finish a few small things before driving it on the salty roads of WNY, so for a few more days it will stay in the garage.
Things to be done still:
-wire up A-pillar spots
-wire up reverse light
-figure out sway bar end links that will clear the steering
-get some horns, I had Caddy horns, that I ruined trying to mount in an experimental way.
I have harnesses made for all the lights already, just have to route the wire where I want it.
My goal is to get it to an alignment shop this weekend, and start breaking in the gears and brakes and stuff Sunday.
So I took it out for a spin today, after getting all the lights wired up. Did the break in sequence for the Black Magic Brakes, also did the first 10 min drive on the gears; I was told to do 10 min/10 min/500mi then change fluid. Slamming on the breaks from 40mph I heard some pop and creaks, and a few loud pops. I'm not sure if it was all the stuff settling in, maybe the LSD in the rear (never had any locker so I don't know what to expect), or something else shifting. I'll check everything over every time it moves the next couple weeks just to be sure.
Some things I noticed right away:
-The Poly bushings in both ends of the leafs make soo much noise. They've already softened a bit just in a few miles and from the brake break-in. I suspect another 10 miles and they'll wear to where they're unnoticeable.
-The shocks, Bilstein 5100, might be too soft for my liking. I am going to run them as I need this thing ready for the snow that's coming. But maybe end of next summer see where I'm at on liking them.
-When driving over a small curb, it almost felt like the axle was shifting side to side. I doubt that is what's really happening as the TB is solid, and has a brace. Maybe it's a characteristic of the 3 link long arms, as I have never been in a vehicle with any long arms, let alone only 3.
-The WJ brakes do lock up nice, but feel a little "spongy". I found a leak from a connector and tightened that, and it helped a lot. But I suspect I need to bleed the brakes again considering the lines sat empty for 8 months. That and after some around town errands in stop and go I think the pads and rotors will get matched good.
Super excited to finally be driving it. It needs an alignment for sure, so I can start gauging bump steer and other things.
Still have a few odds and ends to finish up, but happy with everything so far!
Sounds all good, looks like it's at least ready to take on the snow. Priorities first right? Play time adjusting will come later. I know how it feels to drive it again after a while without it.
Took her for a spin today after getting her aligned. Went up to 65mph even though I was told not to during the break in period for the gears. Slight shimmy around 60mph, barely noticeable. Driving over bumps and potholes at speed has no ill affect. However, around town hitting potholes and stuff you can def tell there will be bump steer, won't know how much until I start flexing and working the suspension.
I'm wondering if adding a SS will help with DDing it. I don't expect it to help with the bump steer, but do suspect it will help with the minor shimmy at speed. It's not even a death wobble, and barely noticeable, so I doubt it's anything other than my setup of LA's, heims, and everything else I added at once.
Will prob just add a RC SS, that way if it doesn't have any affect I'm only out $30.
Also notice that my tranny is doing a LOT less work having the 4.88's. Before it was constantly shifting with 3.55 and 33's. Now with the axles doing taking some strain off the tranny, it barely registers a temp on my gauge.
Got to figure out sway bar as it was a little sketch taking a turn at speed. Around town no problem, the springs are stiff enough to handle that. But at highway speed with the weight of the vehicle it wasn't so much fun. So those are top on my list to get done.
Just read this whole thing on my lunch break, awesome build!!! I've been looking at B.lee's 3 link for a while and its on my wish list. What 5100's did you end up going with? Do you have the part #'s?
Just read this whole thing on my lunch break, awesome build!!! I've been looking at B.lee's 3 link for a while and its on my wish list. What 5100's did you end up going with? Do you have the part #'s?
Thanks man! I'm happy with how it turned out so far. The B Lee kit is nice and simple, just what I was after. I don't know the actual part numbers of the shocks I used, they are 5100's meant for 5-6.5" in the front, and 2-3" in the rear, I forget the specific col/ext lengths I'd have to look it up.
I have to add bump stop though so I don't bottom out the shock.
ok, cool. I'm waiting on my dirtbound rear bump stops and then need to go take some measurements for shocks and was just curious with what you ended up with. Looking forward to future updates
ok, cool. I'm waiting on my dirtbound rear bump stops and then need to go take some measurements for shocks and was just curious with what you ended up with. Looking forward to future updates
I actually just ordered DB bump stop plates too, but ones meant for the 8.8. He had them in the computer but didn't have any cut up yet, which is why they're not listed on the webpage.
I did things kind of backwards. You can buy the shocks based on your current bump or the bump you want, or do what I did and buy the shocks then add/remove bump to match them.
I needed 2.5" more bump in the rear, and already have an extended upper mount, didn't want to ext it even more. This left the bottom. I could have another spring perch welded on then drill and tap and add pucks to that. What I decided on last night is to just buy the DB U-bolt bump plates to replace the RuffStuff ones I have. Same thickness so I'm not losing any strength. Prob could have just welded something to the RS plates but by the time I pay a welder it would have cost the same all things considered.
For the front I determined after measuring I need 4.25" of bump. Almost every pre-made bump only goes to 3", or 4" if you want to spend the money on adj ones. I have 3 pucks on each side and they're 1" each. So I'm going to add another puck on each side, and then I bought RS round plates (they're scrap pieces that are left from their brake brackets) for $2 haha. They're 3.75" in diameter and 3/8" thick. I'm going to use that on top of the pucks to get a little over 4.25" of bump.
lol, I also have a 8.8 so I messaged them on facebook and he said the same thing. Mine should be here tomorrow. Are you going to remove the uppers and just run the lower 4.5" bump? all four of my bolts broke in my rear bumps so this was the easiest option.
Yeah, i'm just running stock style extended front bumps with 33's and just a small amount of rub on my bushwackers. I'm gonna have to do pucks once i go to 35's but just like you my 33's only have a few thousand miles on em' so it'll be awhile.
Just took her for another spin, needed to aim all my lights. First time I actually used them all too. Pretty impressed with them. The A-pillar spots throw a "v" pattern on the hood, and there is NO glare to driver/passenger. The tight degree spots they put out are awesome. Also loosened up the frame side leaf spring bolts, practically eliminated all the poly bushing noise. I'm going to revisit them tomorrow to make sure they're at least 80ftlbs.
Yeah those little lights are awesome! I have 2 underneath and one as reverse light. They're Vision X DuraMini, and only $47 a piece and ip69 rated, so you know they're not going to be ruined if you submerge them haha.
01-19-2016, 10:55 AM
