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Nice. That's something I've been considering, although I did just get a ZJ steering setup. Would be strange to run ZJ y style steering on WJ knuckles I'd think. Been watching this build since you sold me that half hooligan light bar mount. Looking really good. Keep up the good work.
Looks like an easy fix for the rear shackle. Time for shocks and bump stops?
Yessir! Going to wait until after I add the leaf to take measurements for the shocks. In already bumped, but the problem is in bumped for 33's and the shocks I'm buying will be based on those measurements. So when I go to 35's in a couple years I'll be re-bumping and redoing the shocks all over.
I'm debating just getting the Bilstein 5100 meant for general lift like 5-6.5", and worry about getting exact measurements when I do jump to 35's.
Bought these 33's in March of '15, two months before it was parked for the rebuild. They have 2k miles on them. I'll be running these until they wear. And also I can't clear 35's yet, I want to recoup from the past year financially so I can buy the tube fenders I want haha
Love the build, it's amazing. Question, what is your job if you don't mind me asking. I have my degree in Criminology, pretty different but still relevant to each other.
Love the build, it's amazing. Question, what is your job if you don't mind me asking. I have my degree in Criminology, pretty different but still relevant to each other.
I was a GM of a Best Western until I moved out to Buffalo. Currently I make just as much selling stuff online, but with more free time! I'm also a caretaker for a family member full time.
My degrees specifically are: B.S. International Justice & Security, B.A. Global Studies, and I have a minor in Chinese Language & Area Studies.
I was a GM of a Best Western until I moved out to Buffalo. Currently I make just as much selling stuff online, but with more free time! I'm also a caretaker for a family member full time.
My degrees specifically are: B.S. International Justice & Security, B.A. Global Studies, and I have a minor in Chinese Language & Area Studies.
That's cool, selling stuff online I'm sure gives you plenty of time to play around and a flexible schedule. I'm also a GM but for a bicycle shop and have minors in Psychology and Human Services Sociology. Can't complain about the job or pay but looking to find something more relevant to my degrees.
That's cool, selling stuff online I'm sure gives you plenty of time to play around and a flexible schedule. I'm also a GM but for a bicycle shop and have minors in Psychology and Human Services Sociology. Can't complain about the job or pay but looking to find something more relevant to my degrees.
Yeah the free time is nice. But not what I went to school for nor what I want to do forever.
So I got the extra leaf added back to the pack that I took off way back in the beginning. The jeep sits perfect now.
I went under and took some measurements for shocks. Since I am going to 35's when these wear in a couple years, and so I don't have to bump or buy new shocks when I make that jump, I am going to bump the Jeep and buy the appropriate shocks for 35's now. I won't be able to get maximum flex with the 33's, but will save me time and money later on.
I have also decided to buy 5125's. I can find 5100's in the sizes I need, but only certain ones have the vulcanized bar pin, others have just the bushing. The 5125's all have bushings.
I am also going to be reverse bump stopping. I am going to buy a shock close enough to what I think I will need for the 35's, and add/remove bump to accommodate.
So for the front I measured eye to bottom of stem, and got 22.5". I am adding BPE so lets call it 21.5". Bottom of the coil bucket (top of hockey puck) to the bottom of the metal tower is 6.5". This assumes the OEM rubber bump is going to compress completely to metal, which it won't, so I am going to call it 6".
21.5-6=15.5. Now 6" of uptravel, with 35's and cut fenders will still most likely contact, so I'm prob going to add a hockey puck, and call it 5", thus making the shock I need with a compressed length of 16.5", +/- .25". Bilstein has a 5125 that is 16.10" collapsed, and 26.40" extended, in a eye-to-stem flavor. 10" of travel should be fine.
The rear is a little tricky, as I'll be adding the BPE, and have raised axle mounts on the 8.8. From eye to eye I measured 19.5", I'm going to call it 18.5" after the BPE. Currently the space between the axle and upper bump is 8", I want to get it to 5". So that leaves a compressed shock length of 13.5, +/- .25". Bilstein has a 5125 in an eye-to-eye flavor that is 13.58" collapsed, and 21.58" extended. I knew I was going to sacrifice travel from raising the axle mounts, but 8" of travel is still good for the rear.
So that's my math. Don't know if it's right, but makes sense in my head haha. Def chime in if you see any fault in it!
I was considering 5125's for the same reason as you (bushing over bar pins.) I wasn't sure if the valving was the same so I bought the 5100's and pressed in new bushings. It only took about 10 minutes. I actually have 4 extra (duplicate order) if you'd like them. I have no need.
I was considering 5125's for the same reason as you (bushing over bar pins.) I wasn't sure if the valving was the same so I bought the 5100's and pressed in new bushings. It only took about 10 minutes. I actually have 4 extra (duplicate order) if you'd like them. I have no need.
I actually ordered the 5100's in the length I needed. I couldn't pass up the deal 4wheelparts had, $280 for all 4 shipped. I'm going to try the vulcanized bar pin first, then use a BPE if in not satisfied.
I got my Detours A-pillar brackets yesterday, and today got some stainless steel rivnuts/blindnuts. Detours wants you to drill straight through the A-pillar, into the cab, take the trim off, and put a nut on a carriage bolt. No way I was doing that. I opted for the rivnut. Using the appropriate sized bit for the rivnut, I drilled my 4 holes, and using a high-tech tool I installed each nut:
High-tech tool:
Not only is this a cleaner install, but it's going to be way more weather resistant, and should I ever need to take the brackets off quickly I won't have to worry about interior trim at all.
I'm going to also use a small rubber washer between the back of the bracket, and the A-pillar/rivnut, and the force of the bolts when I tighten it down should seal it pretty good, and if not I'll use RTV or blue threadlocker.
01-13-2016, 04:25 PM
