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Have you seen the new forged head edelbrock just announced for the 4.0? Looks pretty snazzy even though I'm sure it won't hit the market for a while and will be nice and pricey.
So, is this going to be a 'stroker' build or staying with the 4.0 internals?
Great build by the way.
I'm going 2wd with my ol '81 Cherokee using dropped spindles, '79 Suburban front frame, sstockish 360/GM O.D. adapter(4L80e) and 14 bolt (w/locker 4.10) out back. Don't need 4wd here and DON'T think I'll be auto crossing on a track with this beast, but the way they drive here, you HAVE to be ready for most anything..
If you don't mind, Could you please post what models, years and pics please for your upcoming BIG BRAKE postings. I get lost with all the acronyms and get lost sometimes. I've had several jeeps, but never called them a SJ, MJ, XK etc.. Just what they were. Well, I did call the M-715, "M" if that counts..
PLEASE don't forget pics on the brake info.
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Last edited by rockosocko; 01-25-2015 at 09:27 AM.
Engine is going to be stock stroke with a 0.060" bore. Forged pistons, forged rods, all Mopar big valve ported head. Mild Jones cam. And slightly higher compression. Should be somewhere around a 4.1L when done. It will also have an m90 strapped to it (possibly with an intercooler). Should eventually make more HP/TQ than the 6.4L hemi in the Grand Cherokee SRT8. Lol
As for the brakes... 14" rotors all the way around. They came off of various models of Ford Mustangs. Could do 15" rotors the front, but the calipers bolt on perfectly for 14s. Front 6 piston and rear 4 piston Brembo calipers are off of a 2013-2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 (WK2).
im now going to be watching this thread closely. I want to build what I like to call an AMC turbo 252 lol. .060 bore with a stock stroke, although I plan on going with a little bit higher compression piston (like 9.5:1) with an aluminum ported head, custom ground cam, custom sheet metal intake with a new header and then I planned to strap a nice little 65mm turbo and intercooler on the side.
good luck im looking forward to seeing a dyno sheet soon!
im now going to be watching this thread closely. I want to build what I like to call an AMC turbo 252 lol. .060 bore with a stock stroke, although I plan on going with a little bit higher compression piston (like 9.5:1) with an aluminum ported head, custom ground cam, custom sheet metal intake with a new header and then I planned to strap a nice little 65mm turbo and intercooler on the side.
good luck im looking forward to seeing a dyno sheet soon!
Sounds like a solid plan! Post a link to your build thread on here when you start the fab work.
Original pair from Flex-Form direct.
Looking at the springs- mounted with a 'frown' and not with a 'smile' as usual. http://www.flex-form.com
One spring was too soft and needed a 2" lift block spacer to set ride height. Would constantly bottom out and hit the bump stops. Tried to add air shocks, fail.
Bought the other set of composite springs from a forum member. Cut the ends off and mounted it with the other composite spring from Flex-Form. Stiffer and used a 1" block to set ride height.
'Frown' mounting.
Second spring added.
Both springs mounted. Needed 1" block to set ride height.
hey thanks. i been planning a street jeep idea but sisnt know how to go about lowering it. theres plenty of lift kits out there but no drop kits lol.
im a big fan of the look it has.
Most will say just go Spring Under Axle. That means cutting off the old spring perch and shock mounts and rewelding new perches and shock mounts under the axle. With stock leafs, that will lower it about 6" which is too much. You will need like 3" lift rear leafs to get the right height. You can fine tune with lowering blocks.
We wanted to show it done without any cutting and welding. All bolt on. And the springs are like 10 pounds vs 50 for the leafs.
This is on a 2WD.
Cut the bump stop cups shorter to just below the 'clip' for the rubber stop and then cut the rubber stop to about 1" or less sticking out the shortened cup. Cut the coils to desired height.
I used 3" lift springs to get heavier spring rating and cut them. Still too soft.
Have a set of 7" RE lift springs that i will cut which are even stiffer.
We also had Ironrock build a straight adjustable track bar.
See post #34.
IDK about 4WD lowering. We are thinking about installing a transfer case, 231 or 242, and D30 front axle to get 4WD/AWD.
Last edited by CobraMarty; 02-08-2015 at 05:30 PM.
CobraMarty, you should definitely get the 242. My jeep handles much better in full time than part time. When I want to romp around after a fresh snow, part time kinda throws me around, where full time can differentiate power to each axle. I can rip around corners and just enough power stays up front. I've had a few buddies with and they're surprised by how nimble it is. Part time turns it into a tank.
I don't know anything about autocross, but I do know that I have had two XJs with the 242 in the past six years and have never had t-case issues. The first jeep was lifted a few inches and had 31s and made it to about 285k miles. From fall to spring I kept it in full time and never had an issue other than dirty fluid. The second jeep is treating me just as well.
Dad's 231 went out around 190k; it was replaced with a 242 which is working out pretty well.
11-07-2014, 11:44 PM
i been planning a street jeep idea but sisnt know how to go about lowering it. theres plenty of lift kits out there but no drop kits lol.